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The build of the Heissmann Acoustics DXT-MON

EXIF68

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Hello Forum,

a few months ago I decided to build the DXT-MON after studying several German forums and so on. So the problem was to get the wooden parts for the cabinet due to lack of a huge buss saw. After search for a cabinet maker in the web I found the company "Thomaier". This company sells complete sets for the housing in different styles and materials. I decided for plywood with beech veneer. So I ordered the material in the right dimensions, with the options chamfered edges and with service port on the rear side and that all for comparatively less money.
A few days later I get the parcel with the wooden parts and also a parcel with the chassis and the crossover-parts. The advantage was I have only to order the construction plans from zeissmann acoustics and all other parts from the company Thomaier.
PB250274.jpeg
The cabinet side walls gluing together was very easy. They fit perfect together and with "power tape" outside pulling them together was very easy. I only have to check for the Right angles but there were no massive corrections necessary.
PB250267.jpeg

Next step was gluing the rear walls into the housing. Due to perfect fit of the 45° chamfers really no problem. No fissures visible on all sides of the cabinet ;-) really fine work.
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Next step was damping of the housings with the so called self adhesive "alu butyl". You must wear gloves by handle that thing else you get really horrible black dirt on your hands and you need a lot gasoline to remove that dirt. not fine. In the first step I had only material for one layer. In the construction plans was written to use two layes of alu butyl and additionally one layer of a thin 5mm wallboard. This thins was not included in the kit. And so not used as well.

PB250275.jpeg

Here the two cabinets without front and before damping. Damping of the rear "service opening" was done.


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Internal then nearby all surfaces wer covert by this alu butyl.
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Next step was gluing the really thick front plate to the housings. As you can see, I used really a lot of glue to do this.

PB250289.jpeg

And this was the result. The glue comes out of the connections and was running down of the cabinet in and outside. This is not so good because it gets problems for the painting. if this glue is not removed to 100% this will be visible every time!

PB250290.jpeg

So here is the situation during drying of the glue and waiting for the next step.

PB250291.jpeg


As you can see, the front plates fit together perfect. Not a 1/10 of a mm too big or too small. I would say perfect fit.
PC050305.jpeg


Next step was sanding the cabinets and giving them the last "outfit" with a special furniture oil. This oil gives a good lock to the veneer and is really easy to handle. no problems with lacquer noses and such things.
After oiling sanding with 1000-Paper and oiling again... several times. all together 6 layers including polishing. The result was a fine silk-mat surface and really fine to the fingers.

PC050308.jpeg

For my opinion: This is parts fitting really good together :)
But as mentioned above, I was not carefully enough with removing of the glue. If you look closer you can see a small rest of glue-effect to the oiling process on the adhesive area. But nothing to worry about.

Next step was finishing the cabinets with damping foam and putting the chassis and crossover on the foreseen places.
DSCF9093.jpeg


The finished cabinets are looking as good as it gets for this amount of work. Additionally due to lack of enough alu butyl I ordered a 25m roll from a car outfitter. Now There are 3 layers of alu buty inside of the cabinet. This makes the cabinets really heavy and the knock test acknowledges perfect damping with no middle tone rests.

DSCF9091.jpeg


For the stands I was using my older one which I have made 30 years ago for my "first" DIY-Project (The upper plate was made for the measurements of the Dynaudio Gemini). The stands are a little bit too low for this small spears but it works.
DSCF9088.jpeg

Connecting the Speakers to the amp was the last step before listening.
DSCF9089.jpeg


The Amp is this fine part here. Yamaha A-S2100 (2nd hand, low price - less than the half of new price, and really big sound ;-))
DSCF9086.jpeg

My listening room. Some about 20m2. Under the roof of our home. (Right behind you find my other DIY-Speakers: AOS Studio 24XL with Scanspeak 22W8851T00 in 40 liter bass cabinet)
DSCF9097.jpeg


Source of the music is a really old Mac book pro (2011), access to the sound files from a NAS, front end is then a 2nd hand Benchmark DAC2 (I have bought this device with blocked motor pot and also defect power supply. The thin aluminium housing of the device was deformed and so blocked the motor pot. I have corrected this and also oiled the axis of the pot and replaced the build in power supply with an external one form the inter net and made a DC-Port on the backside of the DAC. But this is another story...) and then goes by XLR-Connectors to the Yamaha.

And how does it sound? What should I say? Perfect is understatement ;-) This is a true system for enjoying music (and speec) of all types of music. Bass is really good for the size of the cabinets and middle/heights are perfect. Room impression is fantastic.

Greetings from Austria,

Walter

P.S. apology my bad English. Im not using this language very often ;-)
 

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Sal1950

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Very nice! I always envy you guys that can do really good woodwork. That's a talent that escapes me.
 

bigjacko

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Looks nice! :D What are the drivers you used? How much is the cost of speaker box? Also you mentioned you add three layer of that CLD pad, why is that?
 
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EXIF68

EXIF68

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Looks nice! :D What are the drivers you used? How much is the cost of speaker box? Also you mentioned you add three layer of that CLD pad, why is that?

That is because Alexander Heissman (founder of this system) says that 2 layers of CLD should be used and also 1 layer of 5mm hard wood plate. but I did not have hard wood. so i used instead 3 layers of CLD. I think this shoud go o.k.
:)
 
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EXIF68

EXIF68

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So i have tried some measurements of this design. I´m not so familiar with acoustic measurements. we here in Austria say: Wo is measuring a lot, is measuring a lot of mist ;-))
i have a small program on my mac book, it is called FuzzMeasure and it provides a set of basic measurements. The used mic is the Beyerdynamic MM1 and a old Stage-Line mic amp connected to the Mic-In-Plug of the MBP.
Red curve: On Axis
Green curve: e.g. 30° angle to the left.
Distance of the mic to the speaker front side is 50cm. All measurement are done in room (shown above). For my opinion this looks not so bad at all :)
Greetings, Walter


Frequency Response On Axis.png


Harmonic_Distortion.png


Step_Response.png


Waterfall.png
 
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EXIF68

EXIF68

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Looks nice! :D What are the drivers you used? How much is the cost of speaker box? Also you mentioned you add three layer of that CLD pad, why is that?

Less than 1000 bucks all together.
Bass-Speaker is Wavecor WF152BD06
Tweeter is Seas DXT 27TBCD/GB

all details for this system:
https://heissmann-acoustics.de/en/dxt-mon/


Greetings, Walter
 
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bigjacko

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That is because Alexander Heissman (founder of this system) says that 2 layers of CLD should be used and also 1 layer of 5mm hard wood plate. but I did not have hard wood. so i used instead 3 layers of CLD. I think this shoud go o.k.
:)
I have researched CLD before and want to give a bit of suggestion. The hard wood plate is essential for constrained layer damping because the two boards at both side constrained the middle layer to create damping. If you take out one board now it will become extension damping, still a bit but not as good as CLD. I think two layer of lossy material in between is too thick, even one layer might be too thick , it depends on the nature frequency of vibration. If you still want to go CLD I would recommend only one layer lossy material and cut some wood platse and try to squeeze them into the box. The most important for the board should be long, as long as possible because CLD works by shear force, imagine you bend a book, the longer the book the more displacement difference at the tip of each page. The second most important is the board to be as large as possible. Try to put the boards at the middle where the maximum vibration amplitude is.

You can also try this way to damping because even shear like a book, the displacement difference is not huge, this one has bigger displacement difference. https://patents.google.com/patent/US20060231327A1/en
 

Kustomize

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why do your measurements show a hot top end? Their system stays pretty flat.
Good job in the build!
 

Ilkless

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Excellent, one of the few more modern designs with the DXT. SEAS own Idunn doesn't really use it to its full potential, so glad guys like Heissmann stepped in (as well as the older ER18DXT design from Mark K).
 
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EXIF68

EXIF68

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why do your measurements show a hot top end? Their system stays pretty flat.
Good job in the build!
Good question. I don’t know. Maybe depending on the mic? another possibility is the resistors in front of the tweeter. here by changing som values +/-2db can be set. But by the ears no hot top end can be evaluated.
 
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EXIF68

EXIF68

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So, i also think it´s the mic.
i have a 2nd mic for testing, the "famous" Behringer EMC8000.
Under the same conditions the following pictuer is shown:
green graph: Beyer Dynamic MM1
blue graph: Behringer EMC8000
In this case i need a mic calibration for exact measurements i think. But this would be a little bit difficult. Mic calibration is not so easy. Als as shown in the graph, the level itself is a little bit differnt. All parameters (volume of the amp, volume of the mic-amp, distance to the speakers, place of the mic) are the same.
(Mic Position 50cm on axis, between tweeter and bass)


Mic_Comparison.png
 

somebodyelse

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Nice build. When I saw the large cutout in the back panel I initially thought you were doing an active version with a FusionAmp or similar.
 
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EXIF68

EXIF68

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Additionally i have tried some "nearfield" measurements.
Dark blue: Passive membrane
Light blue: Bass
Red: Tweeter.
Mic distance e.g. 5mm from the surface of the membranes.
Passive-Membrane resonance frequency could be a little too high. its about 55 Hz. As it should be at 50Hz or sightly lower. Additional mass needed but how much?

Nearfield_Measurement.png

And here is the "Waterfall" from the nearfield measurement above.
As you can see, the main room resonance is about 90Hz and slowly fading out.
Nearfield_Waterfall.png

And here some measurements with the Behringer EMC8000.
Distance to the speaker: 50cm, between tweeter and woofer.
red curve: On axis
blue curve: e.g. 30°
yellow curve: e.g. 45°
It looks as it sounds: Excellent ;-)

DXT_MON_0_30_45_Grad.png
 
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somebodyelse

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This possibility exists. Maybe a project for the future. Also a 3rd way for this speaker is comming soon... so stay tuned.
When you say a 3rd way do you mean something like the DXT-Wave-Fusion, but without the doubled up drivers?
 

andreasmaaan

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Passive-Membrane resonance frequency could be a little too high. its about 55 Hz. As it should be at 50Hz or sightly lower. Additional mass needed but how much?

What's the internal volume of the cabinet approximately?
 
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