Designing a 3D Printable Case for the Khadas Tone Board

[systemshock]

Hi, @drewfIr !

I am sorry I could not reply sooner.

Can you share the printing service you used?

I live in Bulgaria and used the services of a company situated in my country -- Rast. They are really good, have quite a lot of experience and provided me with help in the process -- with the choice of polymer to use, whether the box is printable, etc. However, I do not know if they can take orders from outside the country. You can contact them.

The standoffs you mention are the ones that came with your Tone Board, correct?

Yes, those are the ones that came with the board. Below I have provided a photo.

Can you please explain how the Tone Board is attached to the bottom of the case?

Yes, here it is:

These are the items that came with the tone board. From left to right: long standoff, extended standoff, short standoff, m2 screw.


Note that we can use the short standoff as a nut on top of the long standoff:


Here is how to mount the board in the box. First, we attach three of the long standoffs to the board. We do this by inserting the screw in the board and we tighten it with the short standoff. Note that we can attach only three of the standoffs in this way; there is not enough space to insert a short standoff between the two black cubes. This is normal, as it was probably never meant to be used this way. Three standoffs should be enough, though.


Now we insert the board (with the attached standoffs) in the box. The three RCA jacks go through the round holes. One may need to remove the small golden rings, as there may not be enough space for them.


There are holes on the bottom of the box, exactly where the standoffs should be. Depending on the accuracy of your printer, you may need to adjust the holes a little bit, to ensure a good fit. We use 3 of the m2 screws to attach the standoffs to the box. Here is a picture of the bottom of the box, when assembled.


As one can see, on the bottom I have attached four bumper pads. I purchased a lot of these, some time ago, to use in cupboards, household appliances, etc. Don't remember the name of the brand. Probably was not anything fancy. It is important to attach those. Even though I added deburring at each hole on the bottom, to ensure the screws will fit nicely, if one or more of them sticks out, they will be scratching whatever is placed underneath the box. The four bumpers take care of this problem quite well.


To attach the lid on top of the box, we need some additional m2 screws. There will be only one left, after mounting the board inside. They should be easy to find in a local shop.

You may want to check out the thread on the Khadas forums too. There you will find how to raise the top of the box, to provide proper ventilation: https://forum.khadas.com/t/3d-printable-case-enclosure-for-the-tone-board/4111/3

 

[drewfIr]

I am sorry I could not reply sooner.

No, problem and Thank You for the detailed reply; much appreciated.

I live in Bulgaria and used the services of a company situated in my country -- Rast. They are really good, have quite a lot of experience and provided me with help in the process -- with the choice of polymer to use, whether the box is printable, etc. However, I do not know if they can take orders from outside the country. You can contact them.

Alright, will find a company near me.

Yes, those are the ones that came with the board. Below I have provided a photo.


Yes, here it is:

These are the items that came with the tone board. From left to right: long standoff, extended standoff, short standoff, m2 screw.
View attachment 26458

Great.

Note that we can use the short standoff as a nut on top of the long standoff:
View attachment 26459

Here is how to mount the board in the box. First, we attach three of the long standoffs to the board. We do this by inserting the screw in the board and we tighten it with the short standoff. Note that we can attach only three of the standoffs in this way; there is not enough space to insert a short standoff between the two black cubes. This is normal, as it was probably never meant to be used this way. Three standoffs should be enough, though.
View attachment 26463

Now we insert the board (with the attached standoffs) in the box. The three RCA jacks go through the round holes. One may need to remove the small golden rings, as there may not be enough space for them.
View attachment 26460

There are holes on the bottom of the box, exactly where the standoffs should be. Depending on the accuracy of your printer, you may need to adjust the holes a little bit, to ensure a good fit. We use 3 of the m2 screws to attach the standoffs to the box. Here is a picture of the bottom of the box, when assembled.
View attachment 26462

This is the part that I did not understand, just by looking at your
previous pictures. Makes sense now.

As one can see, on the bottom I have attached four bumper pads. I purchased a lot of these, some time ago, to use in cupboards, household appliances, etc. Don't remember the name of the brand. Probably was not anything fancy. It is important to attach those. Even though I added deburring at each hole on the bottom, to ensure the screws will fit nicely, if one or more of them sticks out, they will be scratching whatever is placed underneath the box. The four bumpers take care of this problem quite well.
View attachment 26461

Yes, have some similar to those laying around somewhere. Now to find
them

To attach the lid on top of the box, we need some additional m2 screws. There will be only one left, after mounting the board inside. They should be easy to find in a local shop.

You may want to check out the thread on the Khadas forums too. There you will find how to raise the top of the box, to provide proper ventilation: https://forum.khadas.com/t/3d-printable-case-enclosure-for-the-tone-board/4111/3

May have some m2 screws laying around as well. Have seen your other
posts here and on Khadas forums. This part understood from your previous
posts. Also like this solution, over making holes in the case.

Since I do not have the skills to create a case for the VIMs edition.
Was hoping someone with the necessary skills would share one with the
community. So I'm very grateful for your work you have done and for
sharing it with the rest of us. And also for your detailed explanations.

Once have put mine together will share a few pictures.

Thank You very much; appreciated and have a good night.

 

[kiat]

As most of the 3D printable cases out there are intended for the generic edition of the tone board, I designed one, which should fit both the generic and the VIMs edition. (btw, the Audiophonics case doesn't fit the VIMs edition too). You can download the model here:

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/6O1gEjqziSW



View attachment 25847View attachment 25991View attachment 25992View attachment 25993

Hi

Would like ask this casing allows the VIM2 connected to Tone Board via GIO?

 

[drewfIr]

Followed @systemshock instructions to build a case for the Khadas Tone
Board. Used Walter's World[0] on Treatstock, to print it. Came out well,
the holes for the standoffs lined up pretty much perfectly. The only
thing that did not come out well was the top. One of sides on top warped
a little, so placed that side on the back side. It took about a week
including shipping to receive it.

It was easy to put together, Thanks to @systemshock instructions. The
only thing that is different from @systemshock instructions, is that did
not bother countersinking the long standoffs for the top. Since the top
looks fine to me a without countersinking the long standoffs. Really
like this case design. For the following reasons: roomy interior, extra
weight/reinforcements of the plastic, ventilation and the led is hardly
noticeable. Thank You @systemshock

[0] https://www.treatstock.com/c/walters-world

 

[systemshock]

Hello, @drewfIr ! Thank you for sharing your build. It turned out really well. I am glad you have found the model useful.

Can you share what is the brand of the RCA cables you are using to connect the Khadas board to the Atom? The whole setup looks quite nice

Also, I want to share an advice I got on the Khadas forums. The moderator, who replied to my thread there, suggested I add a few holes to the bottom, to improve ventilation. When the case is placed on rubber feet, they should be raising the bottom high enough, so that air can flow beneath it and over the surface of the table. Thus, I drilled a few holes on the bottom. It should also be OK to drill holes on the side walls, at their base, but they will be visible and will probably look ugly.

 

[maxxevv]

Hello, @drewfIr ! Thank you for sharing your build. It turned out really well. I am glad you have found the model useful.

Can you share what is the brand of the RCA cables you are using to connect the Khadas board to the Atom? The whole setup looks quite nice

Also, I want to share an advice I got on the Khadas forums. The moderator, who replied to my thread there, suggested I add a few holes to the bottom, to improve ventilation. When the case is placed on rubber feet, they should be raising the bottom high enough, so that air can flow beneath it and over the surface of the table. Thus, I drilled a few holes on the bottom. It should also be OK to drill holes on the side walls, at their base, but they will be visible and will probably look ugly.

Yes you should !

Even on my case, which is pretty substantial in thickness aluminium, and I have vent holes at the bottom and at the back, the case can get pretty warm after about 1 hour at maximum digital volume.

 

[drewfIr]

Hello, @drewfIr ! Thank you for sharing your build. It turned out really well. I am glad you have found the model useful.

Thanks to you

Can you share what is the brand of the RCA cables you are using to connect the Khadas board to the Atom? The whole setup looks quite nice

ghentaudio: A01 Canare L-4E6S RCA (Male to Male) Cables (Pair) in 1 ft length[0]
They also sell it in 7 inches in length.

[0] https://www.ghentaudio.com/part/a01.html

Also, I want to share an advice I got on the Khadas forums. The moderator, who replied to my thread there, suggested I add a few holes to the bottom, to improve ventilation. When the case is placed on rubber feet, they should be raising the bottom high enough, so that air can flow beneath it and over the surface of the table. Thus, I drilled a few holes on the bottom. It should also be OK to drill holes on the side walls, at their base, but they will be visible and will probably look ugly.

Good idea, since the holes are not visible. Thanks for sharing.

What size drill bit did you use? How many holes did you drill and in any
particular pattern? Thank You.

Yes you should !

Even on my case, which is pretty substantial in thickness aluminium, and I have vent holes at the bottom and at the back, the case can get pretty warm after about 1 hour at maximum digital volume.

What size drill bit did you use? How many holes did you drill and in any
particular pattern? Thank You.

 

[maxxevv]

My custom case:

 

[drewfIr]

My custom case:

View attachment 29933View attachment 29934

Very nice case. Thank You, had forgotten about your post
on your case.

 

[systemshock]

What size drill bit did you use? How many holes did you drill and in any
particular pattern? Thank You.

I used a 4mm drill and made some holes, as shown on the picture below. The idea was to have them exactly under the board, so that when the air enters the case, it will go up and then around the board, on it's way out. As seen on the second screenshot, there are no other holes and the only way for air to enter the case is under the board. I hope that this will improve ventilation.



The holes were drilled by hand, using a drilling bit attached to a screwdriver. The plastic is very soft and allows for this.

In the next days, when I get some spare time, I will update the 3D model to include the holes on the bottom. I will also provide a short instruction on how to assemble the board using the standoffs, so that proper ventilation is provided.

Also, today as I disassembled the board from the case, to make the photos, something else occurred to me. It is pretty obvious, but I didn't think of it back then, when I posted the case -- if one does not have additional M2 screws, it is possible to do only with the original 4 that come with the board. You just use two on the bottom and two on the top, attached diagonally, like this:

 

[systemshock]

ghentaudio: A01 Canare L-4E6S RCA (Male to Male) Cables (Pair) in 1 ft length[0]
They also sell it in 7 inches in length.

[0] https://www.ghentaudio.com/part/a01.html

Thanks for the info I will see if I can find a reseller for those in Europe. Otherwise will have to deal with the customs again, lol Everything over 15EUR has to be cleared, VAT to be paid, documents to be filled, etc.

 

[Deleted member 8552]

Followed @systemshock instructions to build a case for the Khadas Tone
Board. Used Walter's World[0] on Treatstock, to print it. Came out well,
the holes for the standoffs lined up pretty much perfectly. The only
thing that did not come out well was the top. One of sides on top warped
a little, so placed that side on the back side. It took about a week
including shipping to receive it.

It was easy to put together, Thanks to @systemshock instructions. The
only thing that is different from @systemshock instructions, is that did
not bother countersinking the long standoffs for the top. Since the top
looks fine to me a without countersinking the long standoffs. Really
like this case design. For the following reasons: roomy interior, extra
weight/reinforcements of the plastic, ventilation and the led is hardly
noticeable. Thank You @systemshock

[0] https://www.treatstock.com/c/walters-world


View attachment 29874View attachment 29875View attachment 29876View attachment 29877View attachment 29878View attachment 29879View attachment 29881View attachment 29882View attachment 29874View attachment 29875View attachment 29876View attachment 29877View attachment 29878View attachment 29879View attachment 29881View attachment 29882

I've been digging and digging for a new dac/amp stack... I'm running the original O2 w/ ODAC rev.b.
After looking through the measurements, it looks like the atom amp will be my choice or amp, but I'm scratching my head on a DAC.

How do you like to the Tone Board and Atom setup? Do you have anything to compare it to?

 

[somebodyelse]

Thanks for the info I will see if I can find a reseller for those in Europe. Otherwise will have to deal with the customs again, lol Everything over 15EUR has to be cleared, VAT to be paid, documents to be filled, etc.

Something like this? Same supplier as in the This audio cable business is getting out of hand... thread, probably available in other amazon locales too.

 

[drewfIr]

I used a 4mm drill and made some holes, as shown on the picture below. The idea was to have them exactly under the board, so that when the air enters the case, it will go up and then around the board, on it's way out. As seen on the second screenshot, there are no other holes and the only way for air to enter the case is under the board. I hope that this will improve ventilation.

View attachment 30021View attachment 30022

The holes were drilled by hand, using a drilling bit attached to a screwdriver. The plastic is very soft and allows for this.

I take it this what you are referring to?:

https://forum.khadas.com/t/3d-printable-case-enclosure-for-the-tone-board/4111/3



Need to buy a 4mm drill bit and find a screwdriver that will do the same. Thank You

In the next days, when I get some spare time, I will update the 3D model to include the holes on the bottom. I will also provide a short instruction on how to assemble the board using the standoffs, so that proper ventilation is provided.

That would nice for others who would like to build one.

Also, today as I disassembled the board from the case, to make the photos, something else occurred to me. It is pretty obvious, but I didn't think of it back then, when I posted the case -- if one does not have additional M2 screws, it is possible to do only with the original 4 that come with the board. You just use two on the bottom and two on the top, attached diagonally, like this:

View attachment 30023View attachment 30024

Yes, that would work.

 

[drewfIr]

I've been digging and digging for a new dac/amp stack... I'm running the original O2 w/ ODAC rev.b.
After looking through the measurements, it looks like the atom amp will be my choice or amp, but I'm scratching my head on a DAC.

How do you like to the Tone Board and Atom setup? Do you have anything to compare it to?

Before moving to the Atom and Khadas Tone Board. Was using c421 and
ODAC, both from JDS Labs. The Atom and Khadas Tone Board sound much
better. For the price and specs, both are hard to beat. Will keep this setup
for a long time to come

 

[drewfIr]

Thanks for the info I will see if I can find a reseller for those in Europe. Otherwise will have to deal with the customs again, lol Everything over 15EUR has to be cleared, VAT to be paid, documents to be filled, etc.

Good Luck, but somebodyelse has a another option.

 

[systemshock]

I take it this what you are referring to?:

https://forum.khadas.com/t/3d-printable-case-enclosure-for-the-tone-board/4111/3

View attachment 30086

Need to buy a 4mm drill bit and find a screwdriver that will do the same. Thank You

Yes, that is the one. I looked it up on Amazon. Here is the exact model: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B003KQ5EFM/ It is a really nice screwdriver for everyday tasks (e.g. opening a desktop's case, assembling a Khadas board, etc. )

As for the drill bits, one such as this should do the job: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UVHOZHQ/ I have found that wood drills work very nice for plastic. However, I think that a regular drill for metal or masonry will do the job fine. Also, the size may vary, i.e. a 3mm, or a 5mm drill should be perfectly good too.

If you already have some drills, an adapter such as this one will allow you to mount them to a screwdriver (whether manual or electric): https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000R5LQP6/

 

[drewfIr]

Yes, that is the one. I looked it up on Amazon. Here is the exact model: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B003KQ5EFM/ It is a really nice screwdriver for everyday tasks (e.g. opening a desktop's case, assembling a Khadas board, etc. )

As for the drill bits, one such as this should do the job: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UVHOZHQ/ I have found that wood drills work very nice for plastic. However, I think that a regular drill for metal or masonry will do the job fine. Also, the size may vary, i.e. a 3mm, or a 5mm drill should be perfectly good too.

If you already have some drills, an adapter such as this one will allow you to mount them to a screwdriver (whether manual or electric): https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000R5LQP6/

Thank You, for the detailed response helps a lot. When have more
time will see what is available here and buy what is needed. Then
make the holes, will post pictures afterwords. Hopefully they will
come out as good as the one you made.

 

[WoodyLuvr]

FYI... regarding ventilation. My Khadas board, hooked up to my PC and agdr audio Super CMOY, has been "on" 24/7 for nearly eight (8) months now and it runs "COOL". I have detected virtually no heat build up at all from this DAC unit at max digital volume. I am genuinely curious as to why some are saying it runs hot/warm. Even the RECOM DC-DC Converter Power Supply Module powering my amp is running far cooler than I had expected. I sincerely don't view ventilation being such a huge priority and/or requirement when designing and making a case (see post here) for this DAC unit.

 

[maxxevv]

"Running" as in actually outputting sound to your amplifier ?

Try doing exactly that for an hour. It gets warm, pretty warm.