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ZeroSurge 2R15W Surge Protector Review
- Thread starter amirm
- Start date
Definitely. We've had nothing but good things to say from testing PS Audio and AudioQuest items
Agreed… pushing it one step further, the difference between “sound” vs. “no sound” due to a surge frying the equipment could be construed as an audible performance improvement, but it is vastly misleading.
DonR
Major Contributor
Lol "more musical"
The trolls are out in force.
This is a joke... right? Otherwise, you're just seeing how many
you can inspire.
Otherwise, he picked exactly the wrong forum to give us his sage advice.This is a joke... right? Otherwise, you're just seeing how many
Show off.
hutt132
Member
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2019
- Messages
- 50
- Likes
- 86
I have two of the 2R20W 20amp versions of this surge protector (yes I have 12 gauge electrical wiring and 20amp outlets). Put one on my projector and one on my AV receiver/home theater computer. I kept having my equipment fried from lightning storms so I was desperate to find any kind of protection that I could. However, I recommend a whole home surge protector first if you're going to buy anything.
There are three classes of surge protectors. I recommend reading about them here: https://electrical.theiet.org/cours...s/consumer-guidance/surge-protective-devices/
Plug-in Surge Protectors
All plug-in type surge devices are type 3 devices. Based on their use case and design, they must only be installed as a supplement to Type 2 SPD. Meaning before you go spending money on plug in surge protectors, get a Type 1 or 2 SPD installed on your panel.
Additionally, type 3- Point of utilization SPDs need to be installed at a minimum conductor length of 10 meters (30 feet) from the electrical service panel to the point of utilization. Most people get this wrong and end up causing more damage from lightning strikes. If you have a whole home surge protector, do not have a plug in surge proctor if that circuit's wiring length is less than 30ft from the main service panel.
Whole Home Surge Protectors, and Ground Other Incoming Wires (Coaxial)
If you own your own home or are able to negotiate with your landlord, the FIRST thing you should do for surge protector is have a whole home Type 1 or 2 SPD installed on BOTH phases of your main service entrance panel. I personally like Siemens, but Square D or Eaton should be fine, don't cheap out here. Additionally, ANY other incoming wires into your home must have a surge device in-line, such as your coaxial cable for TV/internet or phone lines. Most of the time your cable company will have a ground block on the coaxial cable, but this only grounds the cable's shield and does not provide surge protection for the copper core inside the cable. You need to get a coaxial surge protector like a gas discharge one to protect the actual copper line in the cable. Imagine you have a whole home surge protector but not coaxial protection. Lightning will travel into your home through your coaxial cable, into your router, and to any device connected with an ethernet cable and fry it. You must protect all incoming wires into your home.
Home's Single Point Earth Ground
Lastly, all of this won't matter if the single point earth ground for you home has a high impedance (not a good ground point) for your main electrical service panel (typically located on the side of your home where your meter is at). Depending on you local building code, earth ground is typically provided by two 8ft ground rods bonded together at least 6ft apart, or by utilizing electrodes in your foundation (UFER ground). If you are on sandy soil like I was, an UFER ground is not effective enough and will cause surge issues if not done correctly. Code permitting, I recommend at least TWO 10ft ground rods spaced 20ft apart, bonded together with #4 copper wire, with the first rod being less than 8ft from the main service panel (where it connects the ground of your house). Based on how the earth's soil is charged, the theory is to have the distance between the rods be at least the sum of the length of both rods. You can have them closer, but they won't be as effective.
So overall if you are having persistent issues with devices getting fried from surges, GET A COMPETANT ELECTRICIAN to install a Siemens FS140 whole home surge protector on your main service panel that is typically located outside on your house. Don't do this yourself unless you're crazy like me and have an electrician in the family. Also have them inspect your single point earth ground. Find one that is able to measure the impedance of it, as not every electrician has the fancy device to measure this for ground rods. A lot of electricians are cocky, so if they have no idea what you're talking about or won't inspect your earth ground connection, find someone who actually cares about earth grounding. If you are still having surge issues with a whole home surge protector, either your earth ground is not good, or you have another wire (coaxial) coming into your house that isn't protected. And of course, nothing will really protect you from a direct lightning strike to your home itself, maybe apart from an overkill lightning rod system.
- My home's single point earth ground was bad. I ended up driving two 20ft 3/4in copper ground rods into the ground for my single point earth ground for my mains panel. The first rod is connected to the mains panel with #4 copper wire about 5ft long. The second rod is about 15ft from the first rod and are bonded together with #4 as well.
- Added a Siemens FS140 whole home surge protector to the main service panel.
- And then finally the two ZeroSurge 2R20W for my audio/video equipment (located over 30ft away from mains panel).
There are three classes of surge protectors. I recommend reading about them here: https://electrical.theiet.org/cours...s/consumer-guidance/surge-protective-devices/
Plug-in Surge Protectors
All plug-in type surge devices are type 3 devices. Based on their use case and design, they must only be installed as a supplement to Type 2 SPD. Meaning before you go spending money on plug in surge protectors, get a Type 1 or 2 SPD installed on your panel.
Additionally, type 3- Point of utilization SPDs need to be installed at a minimum conductor length of 10 meters (30 feet) from the electrical service panel to the point of utilization. Most people get this wrong and end up causing more damage from lightning strikes. If you have a whole home surge protector, do not have a plug in surge proctor if that circuit's wiring length is less than 30ft from the main service panel.
Whole Home Surge Protectors, and Ground Other Incoming Wires (Coaxial)
If you own your own home or are able to negotiate with your landlord, the FIRST thing you should do for surge protector is have a whole home Type 1 or 2 SPD installed on BOTH phases of your main service entrance panel. I personally like Siemens, but Square D or Eaton should be fine, don't cheap out here. Additionally, ANY other incoming wires into your home must have a surge device in-line, such as your coaxial cable for TV/internet or phone lines. Most of the time your cable company will have a ground block on the coaxial cable, but this only grounds the cable's shield and does not provide surge protection for the copper core inside the cable. You need to get a coaxial surge protector like a gas discharge one to protect the actual copper line in the cable. Imagine you have a whole home surge protector but not coaxial protection. Lightning will travel into your home through your coaxial cable, into your router, and to any device connected with an ethernet cable and fry it. You must protect all incoming wires into your home.
Home's Single Point Earth Ground
Lastly, all of this won't matter if the single point earth ground for you home has a high impedance (not a good ground point) for your main electrical service panel (typically located on the side of your home where your meter is at). Depending on you local building code, earth ground is typically provided by two 8ft ground rods bonded together at least 6ft apart, or by utilizing electrodes in your foundation (UFER ground). If you are on sandy soil like I was, an UFER ground is not effective enough and will cause surge issues if not done correctly. Code permitting, I recommend at least TWO 10ft ground rods spaced 20ft apart, bonded together with #4 copper wire, with the first rod being less than 8ft from the main service panel (where it connects the ground of your house). Based on how the earth's soil is charged, the theory is to have the distance between the rods be at least the sum of the length of both rods. You can have them closer, but they won't be as effective.
So overall if you are having persistent issues with devices getting fried from surges, GET A COMPETANT ELECTRICIAN to install a Siemens FS140 whole home surge protector on your main service panel that is typically located outside on your house. Don't do this yourself unless you're crazy like me and have an electrician in the family. Also have them inspect your single point earth ground. Find one that is able to measure the impedance of it, as not every electrician has the fancy device to measure this for ground rods. A lot of electricians are cocky, so if they have no idea what you're talking about or won't inspect your earth ground connection, find someone who actually cares about earth grounding. If you are still having surge issues with a whole home surge protector, either your earth ground is not good, or you have another wire (coaxial) coming into your house that isn't protected. And of course, nothing will really protect you from a direct lightning strike to your home itself, maybe apart from an overkill lightning rod system.
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On the basis of what I have found in the electrical boxes of my house in ostentatious Scarsdale, NY, that boldfaced part is easier said than done...
At one job we had our techs test outlets in 50 houses for the proper neutral and hot pin. 52% of the houses were wired correctly
DonR
Major Contributor
About half of the outlets in my 51yr old house are like that. I correct them when I change out the socket.At one job we had our techs test outlets in 50 houses for the proper neutral and hot pin. 53% of the houses were wired correctly
And the old 5-tube radios assumed one lead was hooked to neutral. That might not have been wise.
DonR
Major Contributor
Yes indeed. Good thing I have nothing that dated in the house. Hot chassis no bueno.
Their "filtering" does sound like a peak clipper. Dynamic Filtering sounds like something the marketing department came up with.
I'm dealing with plumbers but have also dealt with electricians. Getting a knowledgeable electrician who cares about a specialty job is VERY HARD. They want to do a quick job, get paid and move on. Finding good help nowadays is hard as people generally do not care about doing a good job. YouTube has many videos on electrician work that was beyond terrible and had to be done over. Most people never know they have bad electrical work. Plumbing is the same way. A good tradesman is worth every penney.
The people I've talked to would rather have a steady job with a building contractor, rather than the handyman thing. I guess it's just less headache.
Does the AC noise component on the output look the same or different when under load or no load?
I think their Dynamic Filtering is in reality nothing of the kind. It's a simple peak clipper.
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