Yamaha R-N1000-A vs R-N800A

[alinaqvi]

I read very recently that two new mid range Yamaha streaming amps are to be launched in Europe soon (R-N1000A & R-N800A) but so far there are no reviews.

Does anyone have a view on whether there will be any noticeable difference in the sound quality or performance? I'm trying to work out if it's worth paying the extra for the heavier R-N1000A when the the R-N800A has all the features I need. So the sound character/quality would be the only thing that swings it for me. Thanks. Ali

 

[Overseas]

Check here

Yamaha R-N2000A network receiver

Maybe the room matters, but I do think there is a clear difference between my 803 vs my 1100. One uses Yamahas room correction, the other does not? You have to disable it, obviously. Also you have to at least do a blind test. Sighted the device with more bling and higher price usually wins.

www.audiosciencereview.com

 

[ZolaIII]

Somehow I more and more like idea of getting A-S700. R-N1000A ain't better than old Yamaha R-N803 it does have a better DAC and HDMI input along with USB DAC one but that's about it. I hope they improved YPAO and we will see about price.

 

[Willied]

Somehow I more and more like idea of getting A-S700. R-N1000A ain't better than old Yamaha R-N803 it does have a better DAC and HDMI input along with USB DAC one but that's about it. I hope they improved YPAO and we will see about price.

It does also have Amazon HD, which the n803 lacked.

I’m sure there are other circuitry improvements, though the old receiver’s display is much more visible from a distance. That fancy “OLED” display is tiny for old eyes. I bought the 2000a and that tiny display bugs me.

There are some nice 803s up on eBay if you don’t require HDMI, USB DAC input or Amazon HD, Overseas.

Me? I would get the R-N800.

 

[ZolaIII]

It does also have Amazon HD, which the n803 lacked.

I’m sure there are other circuitry improvements, though the old receiver’s display is much more visible from a distance. That fancy “OLED” display is tiny for old eyes. I bought the 2000a and that tiny display bugs me.

There are some nice 803s up on eBay if you don’t require HDMI, USB DAC input or Amazon HD, Overseas.

Me? I would get the R-N800.

Somehow I backed up to using a PC as a source (JRiver with remote) have old R-N402D and even more appreciate A-S 700. Any boxed DSP won't work for me, guess it's complicated (or at least I am).
It really comes to what is your priority and yes the better DAC and additional inputs are nice and useful so R-N800 is a sweet spot if that's what you want. As I don't use anymore any of Musicast functions and to me collecting of domestic music is more of a hobby it's a bit different.
I currently have two wirings to my humble 2.2 setup, 80 Hz build in sub's high pass pass trough with self stand DAC and separate trough AE-5+ with crossover at 100 Hz. PC is a processor (and video processor for home cinema). Unbalanced analog input on A-S700 is as good as on top end today's, it's cheap and build very good. It measures nice, we never really got a successor nor will we. Higher end A-S (from 1000/1200) have a bit adopteded typology and triodal transformers along with better separation (high end A-S line with XLR inputs) and such.
Try with app on good OLED display and close distance and a beamer on longer one (I do). Have a nice time and nice to meet you.

 

[Willied]

Likewise

Another nice feature about the Yamahas and YPAO is that subwoofer integration is implemented (the n803 had this too). You just connect a sub, set its volume to midway, set its crossover to 100Hz+, specify that a sub is connected in YPAO, choose the crossover point (increments from 40-200Hz) and change the main speakers from "full range" to "low cut" and Bob's yer uncle.

The R-N800 is indeed the sweet spot. There are too many very good alternatives in the $2000 range. The 800 is the spiritual successor to the R-N803, basically.

 

[Paspolc]

Likewise

Another nice feature about the Yamahas and YPAO is that subwoofer integration is implemented (the n803 had this too). You just connect a sub, set its volume to midway, set its crossover to 100Hz+, specify that a sub is connected in YPAO, choose the crossover point (increments from 40-200Hz) and change the main speakers from "full range" to "low cut" and Bob's yer uncle.

The R-N800 is indeed the sweet spot. There are too many very good alternatives in the $2000 range. The 800 is the spiritual successor to the R-N803, basically.

Hi, i have an n803, can you kindly explain full range and low cut differences in the settings of the speakers and why you suggest low cut, and also what crossover point should i choose in the musiccast app? I have set it up to 80 hz. Also with the sub volume set to midway, it sounds too boomy.

Also, would it make sense to switch from the rn 803 to the rn 1000?

Thanks a lot

 

[Deleted member 48726]

Hi, i have an n803, can you kindly explain full range and low cut differences in the settings of the speakers and why you suggest low cut, and also what crossover point should i choose in the musiccast app? I have set it up to 80 hz. Also with the sub volume set to midway, it sounds too boomy. Thanks

I suggest reading the manual from Yamaha. They are quite thorough and easy to understand. If you experience too much bass you should try with a lower crossover. For example 70 Hz and see if it sounds better. Which main speakers are you using?

 

[Paspolc]

I suggest reading the manual from Yamaha. They are quite thorough and easy to understand. If you experience too much bass you should try with a lower crossover. For example 70 Hz and see if it sounds better. Which main speakers are you using?

I have a couple of Elac Dbr62

 

[Willied]

Hi, i have an n803, can you kindly explain full range and low cut differences in the settings of the speakers and why you suggest low cut, and also what crossover point should i choose in the musiccast app? I have set it up to 80 hz. Also with the sub volume set to midway, it sounds too boomy.

Also, would it make sense to switch from the rn 803 to the rn 1000?

Thanks a lot

Ok, part 1:

"Bass management" infers that you set up the system so that no frequencies below a certain point are sent to the main speakers and that the subwoofer only plays below that point - so basically no overlap. It sounds to me that you have just that - overlap. Both the sub and the main speakers are playing at around 80Hz, doubling output there. You can't properly set subwoofer's volume until the crossover is first sorted out. You have to do just that in YPAO. Set it as recommended - subwoofer on, crossover set (80Hz is good) and main speakers set to low cut. On the subwoofer itself , set it at midpoint in volume with the crossover set at 100Hz or higher. Run YPAO. You dont' have to use the EQ in YPAO or the YPAO volume. Those are optional. Using YPAO will automatically set the subwoofer volume. If it still sounds boomy (it won't) to you, you can cut the sub volume a notch or two.

If you are prefer not to use YPAO, you will need to set everything up manually and that's a big headache. Lots of factors come into play and you need a tone generator app at least to get it right. You can use SVS's (doesn't matter your brand) suggestions for the crossover with your speakers:

SVS Subwoofer Matching Tool | Find the Best Sub for Speakers

Use our Subwoofer Matching Tool to find the perfect sub for your home theater. Complete your audio system with a high end subwoofer from SVS.

www.svsound.com

Part 2:

Only if you need Amazon Music or any other new feature (there are few). The R-N803 is a very good receiver/amp. The display is much easier to read from a distance too. The amp sections of both units are remarkably similar. I wouldn't expect sonic miracles from the N800 - at all. IMO, only the jump to the N2000a makes sense, but it is expensive. A better alternative is a good, beefy amp like the A-S1200 and the Bluesound Node X - or the NAD M10 v2. All of the alternatives, as you can see, are much more expensive and none of them are more than 10% better than what you already have.

 

[Paspolc]

Ok, part 1:

"Bass management" infers that you set up the system so that no frequencies below a certain point are sent to the main speakers and that the subwoofer only plays below that point - so basically no overlap. It sounds to me that you have just that - overlap. Both the sub and the main speakers are playing at around 80Hz, doubling output there. You can't properly set subwoofer's volume until the crossover is first sorted out. You have to do just that in YPAO. Set it as recommended - subwoofer on, crossover set (80Hz is good) and main speakers set to low cut. On the subwoofer itself , set it at midpoint in volume with the crossover set at 100Hz or higher. Run YPAO. You dont' have to use the EQ in YPAO or the YPAO volume. Those are optional. Usind YPAO will automatically set the subwoofer volume. If it still sounds boomy (it won't) to you, you can cut the sub volume a notch or two.

If you are prefer not to use YPAO, you will need to set everything up manually and that's a big headache. Lots of factors come into play and you need a tone generator app at least to get it right. You can use SVS's (doesn't matter your brand) suggestions for the crossover with your speakers:

SVS Subwoofer Matching Tool | Find the Best Sub for Speakers

Use our Subwoofer Matching Tool to find the perfect sub for your home theater. Complete your audio system with a high end subwoofer from SVS.

www.svsound.com

Part 2:

Only if you need Amazon Music or any other new feature (there are few). The R-N803 is a very good receiver/amp. The display is much easier to read from a distance too. The amp sections of both units are remarkably similar. I wouldn't expect sonic miracles from the N800 - at all. IMO, only the jump to the N2000a makes sense, but it is expensive. A better alternative is a good, beefy amp like the A-S1200 and the Bluesound Node X - or the NAD M10 v2. All of the alternatives, as you can see, are much more expensive and none of them are more than 10% better than what you already have.

Thanks a lot, i will reset YPAO following your tips. Thanks again

 

[Willied]

Thanks a lot, i will reset YPAO following your tips. Thanks again

Note that you only have to use SVS's recommendations when setting up without YPAO. If you do use YPAO, set the subwoofer crossover at least 20Hz higher that what you set it at in YPAO.

 

[Paspolc]

Note that you only have to use SVS's recommendations when setting up without YPAO. If you do use YPAO, set the subwoofer crossover at least 20Hz higher that what you set it at in YPAO.

I was wondering, if I configure the rn803d amplifier with ypao , the rn803d keeps those settings when I turn the rn803 on and listen with ypao on. But if I turn off ypao and want to listen to music without ypao settings on, I have to , as you said before, set everything manually, but doesn't that also affect ypao settings, or they are stored and are reactivated when i turn it on? I'm a little bit confused, really.

 

[Willied]

If you set up the subwoofer manually and then engage YPAO, its crossover setting may be too low, volume insufficient or both. If you are going to use YPAO, your need sufficient headroom for the crossover. Most manuals suggest setting the subwoofer's crossover to the highest setting available when using active bass management.

Understand that a crossover doesn't cause a sudden cliff-like shelf. The output drops off relatively gently at a point before the crossover point. if you saw it in a linear graph, it looks like a line with a valley in the middle where the lines cross. So, if you set the crossover for 80Hz, it starts dropping off at 60Hz or so for the sub and 100Hz or so for the speakers. Where they meet, there is some overlap. There, both the sub and speakers are producing the same frequencies, but they sum so that, psychco-acoustically (how one hears it), the line is actually flat.

So, imagine that you set the sub at 80Hz and YPAO at 80 Hz. There will be a 20Hz dropoff from the sub just below 80Hz and a wider "valley". Best to set the sub's crossover higher than 100 and just let Yamaha handle it. Now, if you revert to manual mode, you should remember to change the sub's crossover point to the point where your main speakers drop off. That's usually from 40-70Hz somewhere, higher for small satellites.

Don't feel bad about not getting this. It's not intuitive at all until you learn a lot of other stuff first. I have 50 years experience as a hifi nut and I sometimes have to do research myself

 

[Willied]

Between you and me, I just disabled YPAO on my R-N2000a and set up the sub manually. I like it better - old school, baby!

 

[popej]

YPAO probably does more than you can get manually, for example corrects phase at crossover frequency.

 

[Willied]

Yeah, phase is another conversation entirely, but is the next step.

 

[Paspolc]

Yeah, phase is another conversation entirely, but is the next step.

Excuse me another curiosity, but you suggested in a previous post low cutoff frequency instead of full band, can you briefly clarify the difference? Thanks a lot.

 

[Paspolc]

Between you and me, I just disabled YPAO on my R-N2000a and set up the sub manually. I like it better - old school, baby!

But when you disable Ypao, doesn't the volume automatically go down? On my rn803 if i disable Ypao, the volume drops a lot and soundstage kind of shrinks.

 

[Willied]

Excuse me another curiosity, but you suggested in a previous post low cutoff frequency instead of full band, can you briefly clarify the difference? Thanks a lot.

"Low Cut" cuts output to the main speakers at the crossover frequency so that only the subwoofer plays below your crossover setting.