I have not experienced that, but my room is not the same as yours. The purpose of YPAO is to flatten response and partially compensate for room anomalies. That explains your soundstage shrinkage. To be clear, I am not recommending that you disable YPAO. I recommend that you use it for awhile, get accustomed to it and then maybe try it disabled, but be certain when "going manual" to set the subwoofer crossover to the recommended SVS Merlin setting for your speakers and adjust the volume accordingly. Mine is set to -13dB. When using YPAO, set the crossover over 100Hz and the volume to at least half-way.
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Yamaha R-N1000-A vs R-N800A
- Thread starter alinaqvi
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Paspolc
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Thank you so much.
According to Soundstage measurements even the ~50lb R-N2000A only outputs around 140W into 4 ohms, even though Yamaha multichannel receivers routinely do 250-350W/channel into 4 ohms. So despite it's weight, it doesn't really seem like you are getting much more power handling, and this is with the higher end model. I'm not sure these are competitive at all even against Yamaha's own AV receivers. My guess is alot of the weight comes from the thicker, heavier metal chassis compared to the flimsier and more heavy use of plastic in Yamaha's high end receivers, so you are getting a pretty and better built box is my guess rather than getting significantly more amp for the money.
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D
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I love the heft and design of the A-S line. But 2x90 W?? And not even any dynamic headroom like their old stereo amps?
Such a waste of opportunity. Give me the MX-1 in the A-S design!
Hello folks. I was considering switching from a R-N402D to a second-hand R-N803D to get a better integration of my sub through both the dedicated Sub out AND YPAO. Nowhere could I however find in the 803 Owner's Manual settings you decribed (speaker "size", crossover for the sub)? Is it related to the newer models ? Could you otherwise point me to the correct official Yamaha manual ? For the time being, since I'm mostly listening to CDs or using Audirvana with a PeQ VST Plugin for Qobuz, I simply inserted a Minidsp MINIDIGI between the CD player (used as a sole "transport") and the coax digital input of the R-N402. Thus eveything is taken care of in the digital domain, no D2A/A2D extra conversions (calibration done using REW and UMIK microphone - I have a bad resonance just around 47Hz). THXS
Much Appreciated ! For the Record, you can activate the "Demo" mode, and when entering "room setting" of the bedroom (by holding your thumb on the picture), You can actually enter those settings under the YPAO-Speaker setting : alongside crossover frequency, speaker size, their distance (sub included) to (single) listening position, dB Offset for 2 speakers + sub as well, before YPAO does its magic I guess (phase issues not being the least).
ZolaIII
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R-N402D is dead silent when you use it's DAC and not so trough analog inputs (and neither is the rest of the line with possible expection of A-S700 and R-S700 in economy class). YPAO ain't great and there is a considerable performance degradation when using it. Did you considered going with something like MiniDSP Flex or Flex HT instead? By the way R-N402D perform the best when you feed it 2V (or with it's own Burr Brown) and set the Volume Trim to - 7 as I have one. No automatic room correction will cope very good with beeming under and room modes (as it simply doesn't translate good to room ringing) so you can do it much better yourself with trial and error trough multiple PEQ passes. Future more one sub out or chenel and one sub won't do very good if you need a crossover over 80 Hz (you will be able to pin point from where it comes), for that you need pair of sub's and 2.2 setup (which ironically doesn't exist from manufacturers). What does exit are multichannel DAC's/DSP's in various forms and such so you make one do 2.2 output.
I am INDEED using its own internal Burr-Brown : I Use the Yamy CD-S300 as a pure transport, it then goes through the NanoDigi for RoomEQ, Then into the Coax DIGITAL of the R-N402D. That one does the whole D2A conversion in the process. When Streaming, I use a PC running Qobuz through Audirvana and a VST3 PEQ plugin over the network, so it's all done in the digital domain too.
On the Sub side, I'd favour the R-N803, because it has thas BOTH a dedicated Sub Out AND a 12v Trigger out, which I find very convenient. Gives you more option. Currently, my sub is Hooked to Speaker B Terminal. Convenient to cut the bass at the touche of a button if needed, but still the sub is powered. MusicCast allows you to set the crossover from 40 Hz up to 200 Hz, so I guess you're covered here. No multi-subs indeed, but many AVRs have fake 2.2, i.e no 2.(1+1) but 2.(2*1) : two sub outs, but one and same signal.
Finally, Thanks to Amir, we have good measurements for the 803, none for the 402. I suspect it's decent, and I would probably keep the 402 if it was better, but I can repurpose it, and see what YPAO does by measuring it, then if it's valid, tweak it to my taste.
ZolaIII
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I use PC JRiver with REW in a 2.2 setup and for me it works fine old Burr in side of R-N402D is quite good and better than the rest of offering before the A-S801. Is I use ESS on AE-5 (Creative) I didn't follow advances on that side (in Yamaha R-N line). Considering switching to A-S700 but can't get to catch silver one where I am. Have a nice time.
Audioholics' review of the R-N1000A https://forums.audioholics.com/foru...a-network-receiver-bench-test-results.128382/
Interesting, the R-N1000A has an e-core like the A-S801 but the higher end model R-N2000A have toroidal transformers. It explains why when I had the 801 next to the 2000 side by side, there was amp hum on the 2000 but the 801 was dead silent--different amp typologies.
I don't think so. I would say, based on the guts and the measurements provided by Yamaha, the R-N800A is the successor to the R-N602, the R-N1000A is the successor to the R-N803.
The R-N2000A is a step away from the A-S300 design family, which just scales power up to the 700/701/801/803. These weigh from 9 to 11kg and their build isn't "high-end".
The R-N2000A is based on the A-S1000 line, which includes the A-S1100 and 1200 and scales up to the A-S3200. These are seriously built and the small models weigh 25kg. A great step into the high-end quality. They sound roughly the same as the A-S300 to me, but i like the thick metal knobs ;-).
Maybe a word about value. I don't think the value of the R-N800A or R-N1000A is particularly good. In fact, i find them very pricey. The A-S1200 i find is worth it's money, as is the R-N803 (new, or now used). Highest value below the A-S1200 would be a used R-S700 for 200€ ;-)
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No, the successor to the R-N602 is the R-N600a.
The internals of the R-N600A are almost identical to the R-N602, including the motherboard, which also has the same part number, the same transformer, and other things. The R-N600a only has a new tuner module and a different wifi motherboard with BT, that's all.
The R-N800a is in no way a successor to the R-N602.
The internals of the R-N600A are almost identical to the R-N602, including the motherboard, which also has the same part number, the same transformer, and other things. The R-N600a only has a new tuner module and a different wifi motherboard with BT, that's all.
The R-N800a is in no way a successor to the R-N602.
ZolaIII
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Paint by numbers not internal amplifier stages. It's more like A-S 30x to R-N800A, A-S 50x to R-N1000A (as it whose with R-N803) and probably A-S 700 ~800 line to R-N 2000A. Old R-N602 used really low end under the A-S/R-S 200 line which is let's say bare minimum of what you want and hopefully new R-N600A switched to that stage at least, old R-N402D used it. Neither of new line represents value. Gold in that segment is if you can find new with warranty A-S 700 for 500 $/€ or less (old stock) but that would be hard and second hand R-S or A-S 700 for 200~250 is also a great deal (as long as you don't mind second hand and that you will probably be able to find only black one's either new or second hand).
R-N602=R-N600a, same transistors, capacitors, same boards and wiring, just absolutely identical 99% parts are the same and interchangeable. The R-N402D is a complete low-end based on the R-N303D without the top-art design. It cannot be compared with the R-N602 at all.
ZolaIII
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You are wrong there, R-N402D gives more output and with lower THD in specification. Exactly this stage:
Yamaha R-S202 Receiver Review
This is a review and detailed measurements of the Yamaha R-S202 Receiver (tuner plus stereo amplifier) with Bluetooth. Money was kindly donated by a member for me to purchase it new for $200 from Amazon. The R-S202 harkens back to the old days of receivers being the most popular way to play...
www.audiosciencereview.com
The R-n402d provides more power but much more distortion. So in the final it is lower than R-n602. Even sonically, the r-n402d is much worse than the R-N602. And logically, you can tell by the construction.. The R-N602 has nothing in common with the R-S 200 line, nor is it based on it. You have obviously never seen them inside or seen their topology.
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