SMSL SA300 / Infineon Class D

[Moosi]

It probably is - the real question is - does that matter?

Well, I am not an electrician, but if you look at dedicated "audiophile" PSUs that are being sold at incredibly high prices, up to several hundred dollars, they usually show a lot of Elcos (electronic capacitors) on the platina, those small round black or blueish cylinders. They are meant to be some sort of buffer, equaling and smoothing currents, canceling noises and so forth, hence they must play a critical role in making a PSUs load "quiet". If you look at the platina of the LRS-Series, there is barely anything on it capacitor-wise, it seems rather empty. If you compare it to the MSP-Series you will notice that the PCB is a lot more densely packed with plenty of small black cylinder like capacitors, similar or at least close to an audiophile one. There has got to be something here. Since there are vastly more "buffers" the current is going through on the MSP-platina, you could also assume it to be more resistant to whining.

edit: the copper-coils on the LRS-100 are not glued to the pcb, they rest (and resonate) within a plastic frame. Coils on the MSP-100 however are glued to the PCB with a thick layering. Should definately make a difference in terms of coil-whining.

 

[aebln]

If you look at the platina of the LRS-Series, there is barely anything on it capacitor-wise, it seems rather empty.

My point being - if you look at a classical audiophile amp - it's huge, it's expensive. A class D amp is tiny and it sounds alright - one should probably not get caught up in a quest for a better and better PSU, cause there is one that delivers and that with virtually no noise, the LRS-100. I'm only dissatisfied, because of the whine - otherwise - sure, it doesn't have all the Elcos but it does deliver, as much as the tiny amp it is powering.

 

[aebln]

edit: the copper-coils on the LRS-100 are not glued to the pcb, they rest (and resonate) within a plastic frame. Coils on the MSP-100 however are glued to the PCB with a thick layering. Should definately make a difference in terms of coil-whining.

Did you order one already? I'll try to find a nice enclosure for the LRS meanwhile. Got this one - cheap and should do fine.

 

[Moosi]

I'll try to find a nice enclosure for the LRS meanwhile

I will buy this one and install the PSU via velcro fasteners into the case. Should be perfect since it seperates the PSU from the case conveniently and the PSU can be swapped without having to screw around with it. A bit redundant since the Mean Well case is already shielded, but I like redundancy dealing with electricity.

 

[aebln]

I will buy this one and install the PSU via velcro fasteners into the case. Should be perfect since it seperates the PSU from the case conveniently and the PSU can be swapped without having to screw around with it. A bit redundant since the Mean Well case is already shielded, but I like redundancy dealing with electricity.

Good approach. In my case (no pun intended) I will have it differently. Since the case is without any openings, I'll try to get rid of some excess heat by coupling both cases with some thermal grease.

 

[milan616]

Has anyone had a problem with the SA300 just making a clicking noise? I picked one up for a near future set of speakers, but also to test some mods to my existing Pioneer FS52 (6 ohm, I think 85 dB sensitivity) I was doing this weekend. I figured this would be easier than dragging the towers back to my TV area. I hooked up one speaker to the SA300 and got nothing but clicking from the tweeter regardless of source selected. I thought maybe my ****** soldering came back to haunt me, but when I dragged the tower back to my AVR it worked perfectly. Does it not work if only one channel is loaded, or did I get a bum unit that needs trading out?

 

[manokaiser]

research update on Mean Well PSUs to be paired with the AS300:

Ripple&Noise:
Mean Well LRS-200-24 : max. 150mVp-p
Mean Well MSP200-24 : max. 150mVp-p
Mean Well GSM160B-24 : max. 120mVp-p
Mean Well LRS-150-24 : max. 200mVp-p
Mean Well GSM120B-24 : max. 180mVp-p
Mean Well LRS-100-24 : max. 150mVp-p
Mean Well MSP-100-24 : max. 150mVp-p

Leakage Current:
Mean Well LRS-Series : <0.75mA/240VDC
Mean Well GSM&MSP-Series: Touch current <100uA/264VAC (microAmpere)

I've got this > https://www.meanwell-web.com/en-gb/...-driver-mix-mode-cv-cc-with-elg--240--24a--3y
Meanwell ELG-240-24A-3Y
Very robust construction, Voltage and Current adjustable, all enclosed, certified for wet & dump conditions.I
I didn't know what to expect out of it, but since I could find other uses for it I thought to give it a try and see if it makes much of a difference.
I don't know if or how it could be measured but I am pretty sure the Bass is better, like tighter and controlled.
It's a keeper!

 

[Moosi]

Today I received the Topping E30, plugged in into a Huawei 5V/2A adaptor from my tablet and paired it with the SMSL AS300.

What a difference. First remarks:

a) It got louder by default. Before I was between 28-36, now Im between 24-32 for roughly the same volume.
b) The noisefloor has noticable improved by A LOT! What I thought was a quite background with the internal DAC now turns out to must have been a swamp. Instruments now seem to play out of a dark sphere, there is even a slight echo traceable when the instruments fade out that I didn't notice before. Big improvement.
c) Details and seperation has improved. I can sense subtle tones and nouances I haven't heard in my tracks before. Love it!
d) Soundstage is much more airy and vivid. Instruments are pinpointable within a wide stage that seems to have more depth in it.
e) You can sense that the AKM chip has more control over everything. There is no tone lagging or falling behind, nothing sounds mushy or squished, it all gets nouanced with depth and fullness in it, quite similar to what you would expect from live music.
f) Im using MusicBee and I can tell that using ASIO sounds more clear, vivid and detailed compared to WASABI exclusive. I know it shouldn't, but it does.
g) Can't get DSD to work in direct stream mode with MusicBee. Only works in convert-to-PCM mode.
h) Im using a subwoofer that has no internal khz reducer and sounded mushy before, since the AS300 unfortunately does not cut the frequency it sends to the sub. Now with the E30 even my mushy sub sounds a lot more controlled and punchy, quite as if it was frequency cut. Incredible actually. I thought of buying a new one, now Im considering keeping it.

Im starting to like tracks I thought of being blunt or boring before.
Big recommendation for the Topping E30 with the AS300.

 

[aebln]

Big recommendation for the Topping E30 with the AS300.

Congratulations! I am really curious myself, how the AKM compares to the Sabre DAC in my M500.. but in the end the differences are probably quite subtle. I am enjoying music much more myself since I got on this chi-fi ship. Some recordings sound almost unreal - Daft Punk for example, technically stunning.
By the way, I put my LRS inside the enclosure I got today and I can't hear any whine anymore, so can now wholeheartedly recommend the LRS-100.

 

[Toku]

Has anyone had a problem with the SA300 just making a clicking noise? I picked one up for a near future set of speakers, but also to test some mods to my existing Pioneer FS52 (6 ohm, I think 85 dB sensitivity) I was doing this weekend. I figured this would be easier than dragging the towers back to my TV area. I hooked up one speaker to the SA300 and got nothing but clicking from the tweeter regardless of source selected. I thought maybe my ****** soldering came back to haunt me, but when I dragged the tower back to my AVR it worked perfectly. Does it not work if only one channel is loaded, or did I get a bum unit that needs trading out?

The cause cannot be found unless the wiring to the SA300 is explained in more detail.

 

[milan616]

The cause cannot be found unless the wiring to the SA300 is explained in more detail.

Sorry, here is a little more detail. I appreciate you following up!

Brand new SA300 out of the box AC adapter plugged into the wall, left channel wired to speaker, right channel empty, no USB or RCA connected. Turned on SA300 and it started in one of the two wired modes with just clicking. I switched to Bluetooth and the clicking stopped until I paired my phone, then the clicking resumed. Clicking continued at same intensity regardless of volume selected.

 

[Toku]

Sorry, here is a little more detail. I appreciate you following up!

Brand new SA300 out of the box AC adapter plugged into the wall, left channel wired to speaker, right channel empty, no USB or RCA connected. Turned on SA300 and it started in one of the two wired modes with just clicking. I switched to Bluetooth and the clicking stopped until I paired my phone, then the clicking resumed. Clicking continued at same intensity regardless of volume selected.

I immediately tested the SA300 but couldn't reproduce the symptoms like you.
I like the SA300 very much and have purchased and are using 3 units of black, red and blue.

Are you using the AC power adapter that came with the SA300?
If so, try testing with another AC adapter. You can also use a 19V AC adapter for your laptop PC.
I've read somewhere on the WEB that there's a problem with the included AC power adapter.
In my case, I don't use the included AC adapter. It uses an industrial 24V / 10A power supply.

 

[milan616]

Thanks for checking @Toku I'll see if I have any other AC adapters that might work, but no laptops here that will work (I have a Google Pixel Slate, my SO has an MS Surfacebook). I really want to like the SA300 too, hopefully I can get it working!

 

[louis_lagrange]

https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1375449936221798405

 

[Moosi]

Class A with 2x15W (4ohm)? Why would I pay 600+ bucks to get that low amount of power, even if it's super crisp (and for some weird reason doesn't even have balanced outs)? THD+N on paper is not better than AS300. Maybe A-class sounds superior by design, but I sincerely doubt it sounds 4 times as good as the AS300 for being 4 times as expensive.

 

[louis_lagrange]

Class A with 2x15W (4ohm)? Why would I pay 600+ bucks to get that low amount of power, even if it's super crisp (and for some weird reason doesn't even have balanced outs)? THD+N on paper is not better than AS300. Maybe A-class sounds superior by design, but I sincerely doubt it sounds 4 times as good as the AS300 for being 4 times as expensive.

I agree. I own the DA-8s and I'm completely satisfied.

 

[cyberzigot]

@Toku , between the aiyima a07 and sa300, which sound better?

 

[milan616]

Well the mystery of my SA300 continues. I built two brand new Affordable Accuracy Plus Monitors tonight, everything identical. Only one works on the SA300, the other just clicks. Left or right output, one speaker works, the other clicks. Plug into my home theater AVR (Denon X1400H) and both speakers sing beautifully.
Edit 4: see post 300

 

[palatin8]

Well the mystery of my SA300 continues.

Why the hassle? Can't you just return it? Go for another SA300, a DA-8s, Loxije A30, Sabaj A10s, if you want Infineon/Merus,

 

[milan616]

Why the hassle? Can't you just return it? Go for another SA300, a DA-8s, Loxije A30, Sabaj A10s, if you want Infineon/Merus,

Yeah Amazon wants me to talk to SMSL first so I'm waiting for a response, and while I wait I'm just fooling around. Ended up involving an EE friend of mine and he figures something is messed up in the output stage of the amp. By chance my second length of wire I made was the longest. Made another wire that length and both speakers played until 44 on the volume and then both stopped and started clicking. According to him the length of the wire adds enough parasitic capacitance to keep things stable until it's not.