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SEAS KingRo4y MK3 Kit

Turcoda

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Aug 29, 2021
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Alright, I'm about to dampen the mood here a bit. After using them for a week i noticed the fans were getting on my nerves. They were loud. Too loud. I was trying to read and pause the audio sometimes, and they kept getting loud enough to annoy the crap out of me. Weirdly enough, they seem kick in more often when there's nothing playing, which is obviously when you notice them more. Maybe someone more savvy would be able to explain that away. I don't see the fan spinning all that often in general, but when it does, it produces a high pitched annoying noise.

Anyway, after realizing they absolutely HAD to go, i had one of them replaced as a quick test. The oem craptastic fan was replaced with a significantly better 3 pin Noctua 92mm FLX fan. The fan connector didnt fit and had to be cut a little bit. The fan wires needed to be inverted as well on the connector.. The Hypex board only requires a 2 pin connector, and its not the same pinout of a standard pc fan. Best not to buy a PWM fan and to stick with DC if you're going the same route as me. Regardless, it all works now, and better than ever. There's better airflow, and absolutely no sound from the fans. The fan caps out at 1600rpm and comes with resistor cables to dampen the speed, but there's absolutely no need to use them. Burson Audio does the same thing with their amps and sell their flagship amps with 120mm noctua fans, so they're totally safe to use.
 

paulgyro

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Alright, I'm about to dampen the mood here a bit. After using them for a week i noticed the fans were getting on my nerves. They were loud. Too loud. I was trying to read and pause the audio sometimes, and they kept getting loud enough to annoy the crap out of me. Weirdly enough, they seem kick in more often when there's nothing playing, which is obviously when you notice them more. Maybe someone more savvy would be able to explain that away. I don't see the fan spinning all that often in general, but when it does, it produces a high pitched annoying noise.

Anyway, after realizing they absolutely HAD to go, i had one of them replaced as a quick test. The oem craptastic fan was replaced with a significantly better 3 pin Noctua 92mm FLX fan. The fan connector didnt fit and had to be cut a little bit. The fan wires needed to be inverted as well on the connector.. The Hypex board only requires a 2 pin connector, and its not the same pinout of a standard pc fan. Best not to buy a PWM fan and to stick with DC if you're going the same route as me. Regardless, it all works now, and better than ever. There's better airflow, and absolutely no sound from the fans. The fan caps out at 1600rpm and comes with resistor cables to dampen the speed, but there's absolutely no need to use them. Burson Audio does the same thing with their amps and sell their flagship amps with 120mm noctua fans, so they're totally safe to use.
Is it happening to both speakers? Maybe contact the manufacturer perhaps it's a bad fan?
 

Turcoda

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Aug 29, 2021
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Side note, I have a second problem as well because of noise. The speakers emit a slight buzz from the tweeter at all times, even when there's no signal. Its some sort of weird electrical noise. Only the tweeter is sensitive enough to pick up, but its audible enough 4 feet away for sure. I have it plugged into an emotica CMX2, so i dunno what it could be.
 

socialclubsound

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Aug 28, 2023
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Yep they're both too loud for my taste. Not just a one off thing.
This was my concern when I built my kit because my intention was to use them as studio monitors. And I couldn't find much anywhere of people talking about the fan noise but I decided to go with the 253 for this reason. The 253s get hot but the convection cooling does well enough with it. They haven't shut down for thermal yet even with heavy use.

I just saw your post about the noise in the tweeter thing. That's odd for sure, I don't have any hint of that with the 253. I wonder if the noise you're hearing could be from the fan circuit? I haven't seen a schematic or anything just brainstorming
 

Turcoda

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This was my concern when I built my kit because my intention was to use them as studio monitors. And I couldn't find much anywhere of people talking about the fan noise but I decided to go with the 253 for this reason. The 253s get hot but the convection cooling does well enough with it. They haven't shut down for thermal yet even with heavy use.

I just saw your post about the noise in the tweeter thing. That's odd for sure, I don't have any hint of that with the 253. I wonder if the noise you're hearing could be from the fan circuit? I haven't seen a schematic or anything just brainstorming
Nah the fan isnt always powered on, yet the electrical noise from my tweeter is a constant thing. I wonder if its the internal power supply causing this?

I didnt want an amp with a fan either, but i just took what came with the SEAS kit and didnt overthink it. Honestly, I wasnt sure if i was going to like the speakers, so i figured if i got their best plate amps i could always retrofit them for any other project I could think up in the future. The Noctua fan mod works perfectly. Anyone concerned about fan noise should know there is a solution out there.
 

Gremlins

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Apr 25, 2021
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Weird, fan doesn't come in for me in regular listening sessions

It came in heavy listening, bit hpw can you hear a fan while lisyening at 85-90 db at listening position????
The fan is not a conern while listening music, even at low level,how can it be heard????

For the tweeter, no hiss for me, abosutly silent, dead quiet
It could be the electronics you put in front? A ground loop?
 

Turcoda

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Weird, fan doesn't come in for me in regular listening sessions

It came in heavy listening, bit hpw can you hear a fan while lisyening at 85-90 db at listening position????
The fan is not a conern while listening music, even at low level,how can it be heard????

For the tweeter, no hiss for me, abosutly silent, dead quiet
It could be the electronics you put in front? A ground loop?
I have the F503 amp, which likely runs much hotter. Yeah the fans kick in quite often once it gets used longer than 30min to an hour. I definitely hear it when i pause music or while I'm listening to people talk on discord or via youtube videos. Its a huge problem for me for my use case.

Im using an Emotiva CMX2 to supposedly clean the power and avoid ground loop noise. Part of me suspects the conditioner is not doing its job. To be honest I'm really regretting not going out of my way and buying the 250w version of the plate amp. This 500W version is starting to seem like a huge dud. I don't think the 500w of power was necessary. The coil while, fan noise, and tweeter buzz are huge let downs.
 

Gremlins

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For my 503, fan kicks in much after 30mm, i would says after 3h if listenings were at high levels, and then absolutly silent in listening sessions. If fan is on and no music, it can be heard at 1m ( still light ) but if farther than 1m, its absolutly not a problem and can be heard only if you attemps to hear it

I have no mesurement gear to record it, but its vey low db

And really no tweeter buz
The only times i have tweeter buz ifwhen i use tube preamp in high gain, or when i used a very old laptop

Otherwise, its really a very good plate amp, and speaker is very high level
 

Gremlins

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Hi folks

Had a comparison session last week end,
Transported my two (heavy) speakers to a friends place... dammmmmm

Listenings took place in a dedicated treated room ( house basement), challenging a set of mcintosh MA6700 , mcintosh dac, lumin source with qobuz and some jbl 4425 or stand mount sonus faber guaneri

excellent listenings happened, but still the SEAS kit was more defined and ballanced and neutral than the other setup, especially in bass mangement and sound scene

difficult to described sound, but the SEAS gave a bigger and stable picture

really with this kit, especially for the price, it should be sold 15000 euro, and still be a good deal
 

Alex333

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Apr 1, 2023
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Building at the moment the bigger version... Using 2x 10 inch per speaker. Will use the subs in parallel config at 2 Ohm...

@Turcoda Do you know a DC fan which is db comparable to the noctua solution you used?
Would you share more informations how you inverted the connection for the noctua ?
 

Turcoda

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Building at the moment the bigger version... Using 2x 10 inch per speaker. Will use the subs in parallel config at 2 Ohm...

@Turcoda Do you know a DC fan which is db comparable to the noctua solution you used?
Would you share more informations how you inverted the connection for the noctua ?

The noctua fan I used is DC. There was no PWM pin for it if I recall. Noctua NF-A9 FLX.
I had to shave off a bit of the plastic off the extension cable and swap the cables in the pin socket thing, but it was a piece of cake and didn't need to break anything. Its a slight hack job, but 100% worth it. Shame on Hypex for putting such garbage tier fans in the amps. The noctua fans are 100% inaudible, to the extend I had to place a camera to make sure they actually spun because I had no way of knowing. They work like a charm. The fans are so bad I dont recommend the F503 model over the F253. Besides, the F503s are just too much power. Save your money.
 

Alex333

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I build the regular version with the 253. but for the version I build right now with 2x 10 inch speaker I need the extra power of the 503.
I use the drivers with 2 Ohm and limit the speakers to 450wrms on channel 1... etc etc
thanks for the infos @Turcoda
 
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Alex333

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Sharing some progress with y'all
 

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Gremlins

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Beautiful
So how do you change filter presets? Will you share them please?
I could be interested
 

Alex333

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Yes, you need to change the presets. In short, adjust the gain by -6 dB from the previous settings for all three presets on channel 1 and measure the speakers starting from zero (including resonances, etc.). I use the low-end speakers in parallel at 2 ohms and 450 W RMS; it wouldn't work otherwise. Below 4 ohms, the power becomes current-limited rather than voltage-limited.

I built the speakers for a mix mastering studio.

As the resonances of the enclosure will differ due to its design and insulation, among other factors, using my presets would likely result in a substantially different sound profile for you. Accurate measurement becomes essential in this context. The process involves more than just adjusting the low end. My approach also includes deviations from the standard construction plans. For example, I use thicker MDF. For my next project, I intend to use a through-dyed MDF board - often referred to as 'Volchromat', although it's essentially just a standard through-dyed MDF. This board will be considerably thicker, providing increased volume for the woofers, hence deviating significantly from the conventional design blueprint.
 

Gremlins

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Yeah uderstand
But me = noobe with mesurements and even with filter design
 
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