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Recordable CDs - HELP!

As I said, I can import from the one to my computer with the one and burn from my computer to a blank disc with the other but not visa versa. Not sure what I can add to that.
I was thinking of performance a different way. What are the two specific units we're talking about?
 
Can't find the post that suggested "using a USB hub with a dedicated power supply." I think it was restorer-john. Hey r-j if you see this or anyone out there, got a recommendation for a specific powered USB hub? I don't want to spend my $$ blindly even if it's just a small investment.
 
I'm one of those old farts who, alongside my up to date tech, love my "legacy" gear.
Right now I'm playing a recording (Beatrice Rana, piano) of Bach's Goldberg Variations on a Fiio M3K, a miniature digital audio player - AKA DAP - that can hold up to 2TB of music in a wide variety of formats, from lo-bit MP3 to high resolution FLAC. No longer in production, now a legacy format.

And so it goes.
 
Right now I'm playing a recording (Beatrice Rana, piano) of Bach's Goldberg Variations on a Fiio M3K, a miniature digital audio player - AKA DAP - that can hold up to 2TB of music in a wide variety of formats, from lo-bit MP3 to high resolution FLAC. No longer in production, now a legacy format.

And so it goes.
Shall we observe a moment of silence for all legacy formats?
 
Shall we observe a moment of silence for all legacy formats?

A moment for respect and to give thanks.

If it wasn't for all the legacy formats, their originators and the engineers that fought tooth and nail to bring technology out of the laboratory and into the hands of consumers, we'd be arguing about what wax sounds best on our wax cylinder players...

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A moment for respect and to give thanks.

If it wasn't for all the legacy formats, their originators and the engineers that fought tooth and nail to bring technology out of the laboratory and into the hands of consumers, we'd be arguing about what wax sounds best on our wax cylinder players...

View attachment 336854
Worked at a shop in the 1970s that sold both the cylinders and the players. Also your choice of steel or pine needles.
 
Yes, those two. Can't even remember ever using either with DVDs.
A moment for respect and to give thanks.

If it wasn't for all the legacy formats, their originators and the engineers that fought tooth and nail to bring technology out of the laboratory and into the hands of consumers, we'd be arguing about what wax sounds best on our wax cylinder players...

View attachment 336854
Hey r-j, always enjoy your contributions. Don't know if you noticed my query a few posts back: "Can't find the post that suggested "using a USB hub with a dedicated power supply." I think it was restorer-john. Hey r-j if you see this or anyone out there, got a recommendation for a specific powered USB hub? I don't want to spend my $$ blindly even if it's just a small investment.
 
Are you sure all the settings in the computer are compliant?
 
Thanks for the thought but this is above my pay grade. I imagine the settings are all default.
I don't trust default settings that much :)

ps might also make sure all drivers are up to date....
 
I don't trust default settings that much :)

ps might also make sure all drivers are up to date....
All I can say is I do frequently get automated updates. Other than that, this really is a bit above my lay grade.
 
Yes, those two. Can't even remember ever using either with DVDs.

Hey r-j, always enjoy your contributions. Don't know if you noticed my query a few posts back: "Can't find the post that suggested "using a USB hub with a dedicated power supply." I think it was restorer-john. Hey r-j if you see this or anyone out there, got a recommendation for a specific powered USB hub? I don't want to spend my $$ blindly even if it's just a small investment.

I'd mentioned someplace about USB port current playing vs burning can often exceed the port ratings- that's all.

The solution is usually a twin USB A to B cable or a powered hub. Or just plug the burner into a PC with a 'blue' USB A port. They are usually C rated with faster speed and tons more current.
 
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I'd mentioned someplace about USB port current playing vs burning can often exceed the port ratings- that's all.

The solution is usually a twin USB A to B cable or a powered hub. Or just plug the burner into a PC with a 'blue' USB A port. They are usually C rated with faster speed and tons more current.
Well, guess what sports fans! A light bulb went on and remembered that I have a powered USB hub (mine practically a legacy item) that I'd retired some while back. (My laptop does have a thunderbolt port that's permanently occupied and no blue USB-A port.) Dug it out of a drawer, hooked everything up and, shazzam, now both external drives work perfectly! Guess I'd convinced myself I needed a new drive some time ago when I really didn't. Time for a dope slap! Thanks to anyone who contributed to getting me back on the righteous path. Especially restorer-john.
 
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