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Rambling and mulling over my options for a cheap source upgrade

GreeneDeux

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WARNING LONG AND VERY RAMBLY, lower your shields and await assimilation of many hours of your precious time

Not committing to anything yet but I'm thinking a source upgrade for my PC should be in order soon. Right now I've just got a StarTech USB sound card, ICUSBAUDIO2D, which I use for my headphones and mini-soundbar on my desktop, and I run the TOSLINK-out to my TV sound bar since it's in the same room (my desktop pulls double duty as an HTPC). That second part is a bit of a monkey wrench since I need TOSLINK-out on my source, I have it set up this way so I don't have to change the playback device in Windows whenever I want to use the TV, it's more convenient and in my experience some/a lot of software doesn't like suddenly being told that it has to send the audio somewhere else. More than a few embarrassing moments dealing with technical difficulties with company waiting on me!

Budget is tight, don't wanna spend big bucks here. Around $100 or so at most per component (USD). To be honest I'm not even sure I'll get a tangible upgrade over what I've already got within that budget, but surely a tiny little cheapo USB dongle that crackles whenever I change the volume isn't endgame???

There's a couple routes I'm thinking about going... just curious what you guys think/how you'd set things up. No idea what amp I'd pair this all with, maybe a Douk Audio U3 to keep things cheap, or an xDuoo MT-602 so I can go "oooooooo tuuuuubes" every time I switch it on (heard that's the best cheap tube hybrid)

Don't know if choice of DAC or DDC can really affect sound quality beyond taking higher bit depth and bitrate and otherwise not making it worse than source, but I'd want whatever gives me bigger soundstage and/or more accurate imaging for more immersive video game sound. I also want to avoid anything that needs special drivers to work right, which I gather is mercifully only a small minority of what's out there, and mostly limited to PCI-E sound cards.

1. Topping D10S into whatever. Keeps things simple. I like that it shows what quality of audio it's receiving so you know everything's set up ok, I like that the main plug is plain old USB-B (never seen a full-size USB-B fail), and I like that it's got optical out right on the back.

2. FiiO New K3 and nothing else. Now this would be VERY sleek, just about exactly the same footprint as my current StarTech dongle, question is would it actually sound better? I don't care about balanced output, don't like that it doesn't have a 1/4" headphone jack (I would've preferred the balanced 2.5mm be a 1/4" single-ended), and like USB-C less than USB-B. Digital-out means I'm not locked into using its amp, but I think have to use an external DAC as well if I want to do that since it has no RCA-out (unless line-out is for going from its internal DAC to an amp, in which case I'd need to get a 3.5mm to RCA splitter), which seems like it defeats the point of having a K3 then doesn't it? Unless...

3. Something with digital-out to any DAC with digital-in I fancy, maybe a Schiit Modi, or something else entirely? What would you guys use in this setup? I guess my prime candidate for a DDC source would be the StarTech dongle that I already have, though that limits me to 24-bit 96kHz, which is less than what the D10S and K3 can do. They could, themselves, be used for this purpose, but something about buying a DAC or complete DAC-amp combo just to use it as a DDC feels wrong... a quick check on Amazon reveals there's pure some USB-to-TOSLINK/coaxial dongles floating around out there but not sure I trust them. I saw a DSD TECH SH-AU01A that seemingly installs like an in-line component and outputs both TOSLINK and coaxial, which I like the sound of, but the best it can output is only 16-bit 48kHz! Well, "only"... truth be told I don't know if I could pick out the difference, given the most fancy and expensive headphones I've ever had is the less-than-$200 Sennheiser HD 579.

I'm also at a loss for what DAC I could get in the $100-or-less bracket that should sound better than a D10S or K3, mostly because I don't know much about what's out there. Survey says those two sound good and the Schiit Modi maybe sounds better, maybe doesn't, but it's made in the US of A which I just think is neat :)

What do you guys think? How would you go about this? Am I barking up the right tree, or just going slightly insane?

Also pre-emptive apologies to the mods if this is in the wrong subforum, feel free to move it and/or tell me I'm dumb if it shouldn't be.
 
Topping D10 is my goto device for usb out from computer.
 
Do you think the D10 should sound better than the FiiO K3, or anything else in the ~$100 bracket? How about the WiiM Mini? What amps do you think would pair well with it?
 
Well, I can always EQ in software. Unless the WiiM does something special with EQ? What does the WiiM do that makes you like it, ShadowBoxer?

I found the review on this website for the FiiO K3, which was somewhat negative, and noted there was significant noise, so I guess I won't go that route at least.
 
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Bottom line:

Switching DACs, certainly at the 100 dollar level, will not achieve any appreciable improvement in SQ in and of itself.
 
Alright, so what can I do to get better sound out of my PC, then? Besides EQ, of course, I do know well the power of a good EQ tune.
 
I read some of your commentary and then progressed to reading the thread. I think either better speakers or PEQ is going to be a big booster in sound quality. Do you want to try PEQ? There are many PEQ and I can recommend what everybody else is using so if you have questions peeps can assist you better.
 
Alright, so what can I do to get better sound out of my PC, then?
What's wrong? Most problems are analog and the most common problems are noise (hum, hiss, or whine in the background) or insufficient power so it clips (distorts) when turned-up.

Different speakers or headphones will always sound different (better or worse). And, with headphones there is almost no correlation between price and sound quality, as you can see from the reviews here on ASR.

or an xDuoo MT-602 so I can go "oooooooo tuuuuubes" every time I switch it on (heard that's the best cheap tube hybrid)
There's no advantage to 1950's technology. ;) An amplifier shouldn't have any sound of its own and a good tube amp will sound exactly like a good solid state amp. If a particular tube amp has a particular sound (distortion, etc.) it's going to sound different from another tube amp and you need to make sure you like the distortion from that amp before buying.
 
@GreeneDeux. What OS are you using?

Using Windows, though I'll probably add a Linux drive at some point in the future. I remember I used the default EQ in Windows to dial in the sound on something a long time ago, I didn't feel I needed it with my Senns though so I haven't done any EQ stuff since. Is "parametric" EQ something different that's better in some way?

What's wrong? Most problems are analog and the most common problems are noise (hum, hiss, or whine in the background) or insufficient power so it clips (distorts) when turned-up.

Different speakers or headphones will always sound different (better or worse). And, with headphones there is almost no correlation between price and sound quality, as you can see from the reviews here on ASR.


There's no advantage to 1950's technology. ;) An amplifier shouldn't have any sound of its own and a good tube amp will sound exactly like a good solid state amp. If a particular tube amp has a particular sound (distortion, etc.) it's going to sound different from another tube amp and you need to make sure you like the distortion from that amp before buying.
Well that's the thing, I've got no reference point for really high-quality sound systems (the "source", DAC. amp, etc. excluding headphones) because I've never heard one. Just motherboard audio and this cheap StarTech dongle. So I couldn't tell you if there's anything explicitly wrong with it, though I can say I don't hear any noise. Don't know what clipping sounds like but I never listen with the volume cranked, in fact I usually listen at about the lowest volume I can, at least so far as I can still hear all the detail. I have to assume if I get a dedicated DAC and amp from companies that specialise in making good audio equipment it'll sound better than what I've already got, right? Or is that not the case at all?

Re: tubes, yeah I know :) I mostly just think vacuum tubes look cool. Though I have heard the right tubes can help with soundstage and imaging, which is audiophile jargon but as I understand it, soundstage is referring to the impression of a given sound being some distance away from you in some direction, with imaging being the accuracy of that placement within the bounds of the soundstage. Open-back headphones like my old Senns are said to have great soundstage and imaging and I've definitely had a few "that sounded like it was behind me in real life" moments and it's cool every time it happens so I do want more of that. Opinions vary on whether tubes actually have any inherent advantage there of course...
 
Using Windows, though I'll probably add a Linux drive at some point in the future.
For Win install this and then install this. Open the Peace PEQ and if the option is given disable the auto-update because sometimes the settings are lost if auto-update is used. I have not updated for years and it works fine. Verrrry stable.
I used the default EQ in Windows to dial in the sound on something a long time ago, I didn't feel I needed it with my Senns though so I haven't done any EQ stuff since. Is "parametric" EQ something different that's better in some way?
Yes, PEQ is better than EQ because it has adjustable, "Q." This Q stuff is where when adjusting the band(s) up and down one may adjust the width of the adjustment (Q) for more or less of something. It makes a big difference above using EQ.
PEQ (6).png
 
Interesting. I notice there's a link in that thread you linked me to to another thread, "List of Amir's Headphone PEQ filters", which seem to be preset profiles of some kind for various different headphones. What are those for?
 
Interesting. I notice there's a link in that thread you linked me to to another thread, "List of Amir's Headphone PEQ filters", which seem to be preset profiles of some kind for various different headphones. What are those for?
You can load EQ/PEQ settings into the software PEQ. So you can load @amirm's PEQ settings or other websites that make the files to do that with the PEQ that I suggested you load up and try.
 
Alright, but what are those PEQ settings for? Are they for "fixing" the headphones in some specific way? Or is it to make whatever headphones you have sound like different headphones? Or something else entirely?
 
Alright, but what are those PEQ settings for? Are they for "fixing" the headphones in some specific way? Or is it to make whatever headphones you have sound like different headphones? Or something else entirely?
O' good question. You can use others' settings as I mentioned before and you can make your own settings and that's what I do with my Peace PEQ. I have weird hearing and love lots of top end frequencies so you can see that I use a lot of PEQ, it gets the job done so I like it and that's what matters. Yes, PEQ can be used to tune the headphone to be better, worse, like another perhaps in some way(s) and for flat response or the Harman Curve.
 
Budget streamer:

Press your old iPad into service and add a dongle DAC of your choice. 3.5mm to RCA input to your amplifier.

Upload your FLAC tracks and FlacPlayer. Subscribe to Tidal. You get a big screen and easy to use UI.

Downside is daily charging, which I don't mind, but there may be a lightning adapter that allows concurrent charging.

DSCF5393.jpg
 
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