Neumann KH80DSP Teardown

[astcal]

I think the Genelecs should be at 700 to 800 maximum.

Wow, these European companies are gouging us consumers like crazy then!!! I smell corporate conspiracy here

 

[muslhead]

I would say 400 to 500 euro maximum.

HAHAHA Uh huh. Sure

 

[Frgirard]

Why not Focal?

A good choice.

 

[lowpassman]

A friend of mine decided to look at the inside of the KH80DSP because he found the Neumanns run hotter than his JBL LSR305P MkII. Seems like there hasn't been any teardown picture of the KH80DSP on the internet. My friend kindly allowed me to share these disassembly pictures on this forum, so there they are!

View attachment 134919View attachment 134920View attachment 134921View attachment 134922

I open up my kh80‘s back panel， and i fail to put it back，it's always stuck at a point by the rubber ring between the cabinet and back panel，how your friend to put them back correctly？

 

[Mario Sanchez]

What I did was to push it in as much as possible, and then let the two big screws on the lower edge do the rest of the work, resulting coupling is visually aligned and should provide a good enough seal (measurements looked basically identical) for the cabinet, might not be the right way though...

 

[lowpassman]

What I did was to push it in as much as possible, and then let the two big screws on the lower edge do the rest of the work, resulting coupling is visually aligned and should provide a good enough seal (measurements looked basically identical) for the cabinet, might not be the right way though...

thank you！ i put them together finally！i was worry about if i push it so hard，the cabinet may crush…your reply give me that courage to push it as hard as i can. haha : )

 

[nzalog]

I know this is pretty old but is it possible to easily remove the grill? And do they look good without it?

 

[Mario Sanchez]

I'm fairly certain the woofer grille is an integral part of the chassis and can't be easily removed.
The tweeter grille is, on the other hand, removable once you take the driver off of the chassis, but then there is this phase-plug sticker on the grille. I'm not sure if this sticker's absence is going to significantly impact performance (It will have an effect, the question is how much), but best leave it in place.
Will it look good without these grille? chances are probably not. They look kina unsuspecting as-is and since the woofer/tweeter is nothing to write home about, without any fancy texture or material on the diaphragm, removing the grille and revealing the deeply inset drivers probably won't help with the asthetics.

 

[mightycicadalord]

Kinda wonder how the speaker would measure without the sticker on the tweeter grill. Every tweeter I've had with one of those measured better after it was removed.

 

[Ilkless]

Kinda wonder how the speaker would measure without the sticker on the tweeter grill. Every tweeter I've had with one of those measured better after it was removed.

It could be an integral part of the design like KEF's Tangerine on their dome. And with listening window of +/-0.6dB, I don't see how much improvement can there be. The ripple is almost below human thresholds already.

 

[coleboia]

While I try to clean up the cabinet, a few more images:
View attachment 134956The cabinet's rear portion comes off easily after unscrewing the two Torx 20 (ish) screws at the bottom rear edge of the cabinet and giving the upper edge of the rear portion a push. There are three plastic extrusions on each side that hook onto cutouts on the cabinet wall. The perimeter of the rear shell is lined with rubber. presumably to improve the seal between the rear shell and the rest of the cabinet. You can also see the glued-down screw holding the heat sink on the opposite side of PCB in place.
View attachment 134957
Disconnect the larger 4-pin which goes to the driver as well as the smaller 3-pin which goes to the LED, and the rear portion detaches from the rest of the speaker.
View attachment 134958
There is a big fat foam chunk of sorts behind the tweeter driver which also helps the cables stay in place. The cabinet is, of course, made of PC plastic but they have a nice thickness to them and are fairly rigid. There is a strut in the middle of the speaker presumably to reinforce its structure. There are only two types of screws in the kh80: One is a Torx T20(ish) M4 screw that holds the drivers, the port, the strut in the middle of the cabinet, and the rear shell of the speaker in place. The other is a Torx T10(ish) M3 screw which is used to affix PCBs to the speaker.
View attachment 134959
The port tube is of a curious design - There is a small hole in the middle of it blocked by the same material which stuffs the upper part of the cabinet! I'll leave it to someone savvier in these things to explain this.

Hi! I'm currently tearing this down, but can't access these back few screws tucked in the corner behind the port tube to get them out or finish unscrewing the woofer; any tips?? Thanks so much!