Neumann KH80DSP Teardown

[astcal]

I think the Genelecs should be at 700 to 800 maximum.

Wow, these European companies are gouging us consumers like crazy then!!! I smell corporate conspiracy here

 

[muslhead]

I would say 400 to 500 euro maximum.

HAHAHA Uh huh. Sure

 

[Frgirard]

Why not Focal?

A good choice.

 

[lowpassman]

A friend of mine decided to look at the inside of the KH80DSP because he found the Neumanns run hotter than his JBL LSR305P MkII. Seems like there hasn't been any teardown picture of the KH80DSP on the internet. My friend kindly allowed me to share these disassembly pictures on this forum, so there they are!

View attachment 134919View attachment 134920View attachment 134921View attachment 134922

I open up my kh80‘s back panel， and i fail to put it back，it's always stuck at a point by the rubber ring between the cabinet and back panel，how your friend to put them back correctly？

 

[Mario Sanchez]

What I did was to push it in as much as possible, and then let the two big screws on the lower edge do the rest of the work, resulting coupling is visually aligned and should provide a good enough seal (measurements looked basically identical) for the cabinet, might not be the right way though...

 

[lowpassman]

What I did was to push it in as much as possible, and then let the two big screws on the lower edge do the rest of the work, resulting coupling is visually aligned and should provide a good enough seal (measurements looked basically identical) for the cabinet, might not be the right way though...

thank you！ i put them together finally！i was worry about if i push it so hard，the cabinet may crush…your reply give me that courage to push it as hard as i can. haha : )

 

[nzalog]

I know this is pretty old but is it possible to easily remove the grill? And do they look good without it?

 

[Mario Sanchez]

I'm fairly certain the woofer grille is an integral part of the chassis and can't be easily removed.
The tweeter grille is, on the other hand, removable once you take the driver off of the chassis, but then there is this phase-plug sticker on the grille. I'm not sure if this sticker's absence is going to significantly impact performance (It will have an effect, the question is how much), but best leave it in place.
Will it look good without these grille? chances are probably not. They look kina unsuspecting as-is and since the woofer/tweeter is nothing to write home about, without any fancy texture or material on the diaphragm, removing the grille and revealing the deeply inset drivers probably won't help with the asthetics.

 

[mightycicadalord]

Kinda wonder how the speaker would measure without the sticker on the tweeter grill. Every tweeter I've had with one of those measured better after it was removed.

 

[Ilkless]

Kinda wonder how the speaker would measure without the sticker on the tweeter grill. Every tweeter I've had with one of those measured better after it was removed.

It could be an integral part of the design like KEF's Tangerine on their dome. And with listening window of +/-0.6dB, I don't see how much improvement can there be. The ripple is almost below human thresholds already.

 

[coleboia]

While I try to clean up the cabinet, a few more images:
View attachment 134956The cabinet's rear portion comes off easily after unscrewing the two Torx 20 (ish) screws at the bottom rear edge of the cabinet and giving the upper edge of the rear portion a push. There are three plastic extrusions on each side that hook onto cutouts on the cabinet wall. The perimeter of the rear shell is lined with rubber. presumably to improve the seal between the rear shell and the rest of the cabinet. You can also see the glued-down screw holding the heat sink on the opposite side of PCB in place.
View attachment 134957
Disconnect the larger 4-pin which goes to the driver as well as the smaller 3-pin which goes to the LED, and the rear portion detaches from the rest of the speaker.
View attachment 134958
There is a big fat foam chunk of sorts behind the tweeter driver which also helps the cables stay in place. The cabinet is, of course, made of PC plastic but they have a nice thickness to them and are fairly rigid. There is a strut in the middle of the speaker presumably to reinforce its structure. There are only two types of screws in the kh80: One is a Torx T20(ish) M4 screw that holds the drivers, the port, the strut in the middle of the cabinet, and the rear shell of the speaker in place. The other is a Torx T10(ish) M3 screw which is used to affix PCBs to the speaker.
View attachment 134959
The port tube is of a curious design - There is a small hole in the middle of it blocked by the same material which stuffs the upper part of the cabinet! I'll leave it to someone savvier in these things to explain this.

Hi! I'm currently tearing this down, but can't access these back few screws tucked in the corner behind the port tube to get them out or finish unscrewing the woofer; any tips?? Thanks so much!

 

[tetragrammaton]

I would say 400 to 500 euro maximum.

An aftermarket tweeter that rivals the Neumann titanium tweeter costs more than 200€.

 

[Chrise36]

An aftermarket tweeter that rivals the Neumann titanium tweeter costs more than 200€.

Peerless by Tymphany H25TG05-08 1 Titanium Dome Tweeter with Waveguide 8 Ohm - ElectroCarts

The Tymphany H25TG05-08 horn loaded titanium dome tweeter features smooth response from 2,500 to 20,000 Hz and high efficiency, making it an excellent choice for any high efficiency speaker system. Highlights Horn loaded design for increased sensitivity Titanium dome for detailed, accurate...

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[tetragrammaton]

Peerless by Tymphany H25TG05-08 1 Titanium Dome Tweeter with Waveguide 8 Ohm - ElectroCarts

The Tymphany H25TG05-08 horn loaded titanium dome tweeter features smooth response from 2,500 to 20,000 Hz and high efficiency, making it an excellent choice for any high efficiency speaker system. Highlights Horn loaded design for increased sensitivity Titanium dome for detailed, accurate...

electrocarts.in

Bliesma would be more in line with the performance offered by the Neumann tweeter

 

[Chrise36]

Bliesma would be more in line with the performance offered by the Neumann tweeter

Neumann are made by peerless india or used to be. And that is not a price a manufacturer would pay with thousands of units.

 

[tetragrammaton]

Neumann are made by peerless india or used to be. And that is not a price a manufacturer would pay with thousands of units.

Numerous people in other threads have pointed out that even if that is the case, the drivers are custom orders and not equivalent to whatever is commercially available from them.

I'm certain the tweeter you linked has more unit variance from the same assembly line than two Neumann speakers made a decade apart.

Can you show me how this beautiful FR curve looks in your room and a couple of meters away?

I don't understand why I'm even having a discussion with someone who...said this...

In fact, I won't. You win! Congratulations!

 

[DrSpan]

I'm that friend who did the teardown. The chip amps' heatsinks have their screws glued down against the board. I'm not sure if I could take them off without breaking the whole thing so I left it as is.

Hello there.

Years later…
I heard a noise in my kh80 when i had to move them. Some little rattling. So i unscrewed them to take a look inside. The rattling was that one of the two screw holes plastic thingy was broken down in pieces. My guess is that the factory tightened the screw too much cause i also see a tiny tear like there was too much tension on the plastic.

I had never noticed it since i basically never moved them. They also have never been misused and i have never dropped them or anything.

So now i am wondering of this plastic „bridge“ plastic part where the screw holes are is replaceable? Do you by any chance know this?
It feels like its an extra part that is glued or fused with the enclosure and works like an „anchor“ for the screws to be screwed in and not like its one with the cabin.

If its not replaceable i am,,,,,, screwed

 

[7Tiger]

As long as the broken off part isn't lost, some strong adhesive (epoxy/cyanoacrylate ?) might solve your problem

 

[AnalogSteph]

A job for epoxy for sure. The longer the curing time the more durable it tends to be.

Even if you do not have the broken-off piece (though it would have to have been in there) one could still build up epoxy around the fastener (like clay) and make sure it doesn't seize.

 

[Doodski]

I used JB Weld for repairing a car mirror base that was broken in half and it lasted about 4 months until -30C weather came and then the joint failed. The structure was some sort of plastic with fibers in it and the epoxy never took well.

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I have also used many times methylene chloride as a solvent to melt plastic at the broken joint and then fused them together and that works very well if the right kind of plastic is being fused together. This technique requires patience and a plan. The liquid solvent is like vodka in consistency and must be handled with a very small pipette or even a small Philips screwdriver may be used with the capillary action of the tip holding small amounts of the solvent. The joint needs to be accurately fitting together because that is the way the solvent works so if the pieces are severely distorted the joint won't fuse properly. It may be purchased at industrial paint and plastic stores. Don't buy a liter because it will evaporate rapidly once that lid is unscrewed. So like a 250 mL container is plenty. To test it as a solvent on your gear put a drop on a small test area and then repeat that maybe 3 or 5 times over minutes and look for the plastic melting and if this occurs you are good to go on fusing the pieces together. This method can result in very fine looking joints or a complete mess if the applicator is not patient and using just the right amount of the solvent and not too much that it runs over everything. Let the joint dry for 2 to 3 days before stressing it for best results. When using the methylene chloride liquid keep the area well ventilated as it has no odor. This is how plexiglass is butt welded together into large sheets for visually attractive installations.

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