Jojo
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- Joined
- Jan 15, 2022
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@restorer-john Hello, thank you for you response ! I will try to be understable in english...It actually looks pretty much original, right down to the 45 year old dust, the odd spilled drink etc.
You mention hum. Is the hum common to both channels or just one? Is it dependant on volume setting or does it remain constant? Does the tone bypass/defeat function change the hum level?
The original Nippon Chemicon black electrolytics are usually pretty reliable, however Lux has glued several of the large ones down and corrosion of the leads under the capacitors is a very common issue. There is one that has a significant lean on it- it could be OK, but it could also be the rubber seal swelling and lifting the cap. Those old caps have their vents on the base, not the top like modern caps. I have arrowed the one I don't like the look of.
View attachment 181118
Down the track, you need to have the four red arrowed components replaced with twin diode strings (2x1N4148). They are an epoxy 'blob' varistor diode and they are failure prone. When they become intermittent, the amp will go in and out of protection and then possibly fail altogether.
The Lux L-81 is a great vintage integrated amplifier- very beautiful to look at, nicely made and very reliable. They are also worth a lot on the 2nd hand market. Enjoy!
"It actually looks pretty much original, right down to the 45 year old dust, the odd spilled drink etc." Good to know i guess. The spilled drink thing does not seems to be a problem since the amp is working fine with. Idk where it comes from. Looks like someone tried acetone or something hard on cleaning.
"You mention hum. Is the hum common to both channels or just one? Is it dependant on volume setting or does it remain constant? Does the tone bypass/defeat function change the hum level?"
The hum is constant, botch channels, in the tweeter (2,5k --> 13,5k is the frequency band for this driver). Independant of volume knob. This little hum was always here. It's only when i turn on "speakers" A or B, not before (logical, right). I've read that this amp seems to not be grounded good in some of your responses and in some words from @sabristol. Could it be just this ?
"The original Nippon Chemicon black electrolytics are usually (...) I have arrowed the one I don't like the look of."
Thanks a lot for this explanation. Very interesting even if i'm not an electrician (really far from it )
So you would change this one cap if you had this amp right ? I'm thinking that if i change one i change them all... They are like 45years old. I'm not sure how it will affect the sound if i put some audio caps from now. The two big caps may be need to be replaced too, 63V 6800uf if i follow what i've seen for this amp on the internet, almost everytime they lack of uF capacitance.
"Down the track, you need to have the four red arrowed components replaced with twin diode strings (2x1N4148). They are an epoxy 'blob' varistor diode and they are failure prone. When they become intermittent, the amp will go in and out of protection and then possibly fail altogether."
Thanks a lot for this information. Very usefull to know.
I've seen several persons talking about the different diodes on this amp - like https://www.audiovintage.fr/2014/02/23/luxman-l81/
I think i don't have the skill/electrical knowledge to do it unfortunally ; i will try to find a local shop to do it for me. Cause i don't wan't to damage the amp since it is still working (all the tone/bypass are working).
I would like to compare this amp "fixed" and class d from nowadays (hypex etc.) just to see how it performs. I guess it's worst on THD and everything, but this thing surprised me cause everything seems "here", in the room with me. I want to keep this baby alive !