iTunes into JBL 705Ps

[Phelonious Ponk]

If I buy a pair of JBLs new monitors, to keep my current user interface I'll need to convert optical, coming out of my Apple TV, to AES/EBU into the JBLs. Is there anything I should out look for in a converter? Any significant risk of increased jitter or noise? I would keep the volume on the JBLs at the maximum I'll want in the room and control the volume in iTunes, on my iPad. Any problems with that?

And by the way, thanks for being here. This is the only place on the net where can ask that question without getting either a bunch of subjective nonsense or a semester in electronic engineering.

Basically stated, that would be the simplest way for me to set up. Does anyone see any drawbacks?

Tim

 

[RayDunzl]

Any significant risk of increased jitter or noise?

Unlikely, as far as audibility.

I'll need to convert optical, coming out of my Apple TV, to AES/EBU into the JBLs. Is there anything I should out look for in a converter?

Discussion:

http://www.rane.com/note149.html

Looks to me like you need an Optical to Coax converter, then a Coax to AES converter...

Examples:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/915244-REG/c2g_40019_optical_to_coaxial_digital.html

http://www.neutrik.us/en-us/accessories/aes-ebu-impedance-transformers/

Surely this comes in one unit but I don't see a cheap one.

 

[Phelonious Ponk]

Unlikely, as far as audibility.

Thanks, Ray. I'm on my way out, but I'll look at these links new. I found an optical to AES/EBU converter at Sweetwater, a HOSA ODL312, for $120.

Tim

Discussion:

http://www.rane.com/note149.html

Looks to me like you need an Optical to Coax converter, then a Coax to AES converter...

Examples:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/915244-REG/c2g_40019_optical_to_coaxial_digital.html

http://www.neutrik.us/en-us/accessories/aes-ebu-impedance-transformers/

Surely this comes in one unit but I don't see a cheap one.

 

[RayDunzl]

I found an optical to AES/EBU converter at Sweetwater, a HOSA ODL312, for $120.

I saw that Hosa unit too.

Surely this comes in one unit but I don't see a cheap one.

Now you know something about my threshold for Cheepnis...

 

[Blumlein 88]

The HOSA has been discontinued so might want to get it while you can. You can get it cheaper than $120.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/391097-REG/Hosa_Technology_ODL_312_ODL_312_Data_Link.html

Amazon has it for $93 if they run out at bhp.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-ODL-312-Converter-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B000068OGR

I thought it odd JBL didn't offer at least one other digital input beyond the AES/EBU on these speakers.

 

[Phelonious Ponk]

It does seem odd, though they are aimed right at the highest standards of the pro studio market. The thing I can't figure out, as I wait for more information to be realeased, is how the EQ and room correction work. I don't see an input for a mic anywhere.

 

[Blumlein 88]

Trying to read between the lines, it will have 12 band EQ plus 8 user adjustable PEQ points. I was unsuccessful finding a PDF of the owners manual.

 

[watchnerd]

If I buy a pair of JBLs new monitors, to keep my current user interface I'll need to convert optical, coming out of my Apple TV, to AES/EBU into the JBLs. Is there anything I should out look for in a converter? Any significant risk of increased jitter or noise? I would keep the volume on the JBLs at the maximum I'll want in the room and control the volume in iTunes, on my iPad. Any problems with that?

And by the way, thanks for being here. This is the only place on the net where can ask that question without getting either a bunch of subjective nonsense or a semester in electronic engineering.

Basically stated, that would be the simplest way for me to set up. Does anyone see any drawbacks?

Tim

I don't know which generation Apple TV you have, but the one I have has pretty mediocre jitter specs.

However, I wouldn't worry about it as a) it's still below the audibility threshold and b) I'm willing to bet the 705P has an internal clock given all the DSP it's doing.

 

[Thomas savage]

These must be very new as no price or much detail ETA from the uk supplier . ( I did email them)

 

[watchnerd]

If I buy a pair of JBLs new monitors, to keep my current user interface I'll need to convert optical, coming out of my Apple TV, to AES/EBU into the JBLs. Is there anything I should out look for in a converter? Any significant risk of increased jitter or noise? I would keep the volume on the JBLs at the maximum I'll want in the room and control the volume in iTunes, on my iPad. Any problems with that?

And by the way, thanks for being here. This is the only place on the net where can ask that question without getting either a bunch of subjective nonsense or a semester in electronic engineering.

Basically stated, that would be the simplest way for me to set up. Does anyone see any drawbacks?

Tim

Here is a good thread from the Pro Tools site about it:

http://duc.avid.com/showthread.php?t=196460

 

[watchnerd]

These must be very new as no price or much detail ETA from the uk supplier . ( I did email them)

UK price is in one of the press releases if you google for model name and price.

 

[watchnerd]

I'm still trying to decide if I'm more inclined towards the 705P or the 708P.

I'm so glad JBL released the 705P, though. It takes out all the stuff I don't want / need from the KEF LS50 Wireless (wireless streaming), switches to big boy XLR inputs, and adds seemingly much more sophisticated EQ.

 

[watchnerd]

These must be very new as no price or much detail ETA from the uk supplier . ( I did email them)

Here you go:

https://www.gearooz.com/jbl-705p

I'll take my tip as your personal assistant in the form of a title.

 

[Thomas savage]

Here you go:

https://www.gearooz.com/jbl-705p

I'll take my tip as your personal assistant in the form of a title.

you are and always will be known as ' last word warrior ' to me ..

Or

'Beer hero' fair play to you watchnerd, you shamed me into ditching the mediocre beer and getting back to the decent stuff..

If you don't like those, let me know what you want.. I will make it so..

 

[watchnerd]

'Beer hero' fair play to you watchnerd, you shamed me into ditching the mediocre beer and getting back to the decent stuff..

That has a nice ring to it!

 

[Phelonious Ponk]

These must be very new as no price or much detail ETA from the uk supplier . ( I did email them)

Been on the phone to Sweetwater. They're expecting them mid-February. Will sill the 705s for $999 each, the 708s for $1999 each.

 

[watchnerd]

Been on the phone to Sweetwater. They're expecting them mid-February. Will sill the 705s for $999 each, the 708s for $1999 each.

Or just look here:

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/LSR705P
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/LSR708P

 

[Blumlein 88]

Been on the phone to Sweetwater. They're expecting them mid-February. Will sill the 705s for $999 each, the 708s for $1999 each.

I think the goto choice here is to buy four 705s for the price of two 708s.

Option 1: Place them back to back in phase and have bipolar speakers. (possibly called semi-omnidirectional)

Option 2: Place them back to back out of phase and have dipolar speakers. You don't excite room modes so much this way.

Option 3: Stack a pair with the upper one upside down and have stacked 705s. Tiny wedges between them could even focus the beams on the sweetest spot.

Option 4: Place one pair up front. Use the second pair in the rear of the room with appropriate delay(the DSP has delay in these) the way people are using extra subwoofers for Source Sink only you will do this full range.

Option 5: Place a pair up front, and place a pair at the first reflection points in a Source Sink use to remove or diminish as you desire the first reflection energy. (If by some crazy chance this really works, buy four more to fix ceiling and floor reflections).

Then report all your results here so when the time comes I only decide to buy a pair of them.

 

[watchnerd]

I think the goto choice here is to buy four 705s for the price of two 708s.

Option 1: Place them back to back in phase and have bipolar speakers. (possibly called semi-omnidirectional)

Option 2: Place them back to back out of phase and have dipolar speakers. You don't excite room modes so much this way.

Option 3: Stack a pair with the upper one upside down and have stacked 705s. Tiny wedges between them could even focus the beams on the sweetest spot.

Option 4: Place one pair up front. Use the second pair in the rear of the room with appropriate delay(the DSP has delay in these) the way people are using extra subwoofers for Source Sink only you will do this full range.

Option 5: Place a pair up front, and place a pair at the first reflection points in a Source Sink use to remove or diminish as you desire the first reflection energy. (If by some crazy chance this really works, buy four more to fix ceiling and floor reflections).

Then report all your results here so when the time comes I only decide to buy a pair of them.

I was thinking more like 2 x 705P + subwoofers instead of 2 x 708P.

The 708P goes a heck of a lot louder than the 705P, but the bass extension FR on paper doesn't look that much deeper.

 

[Blumlein 88]

I was thinking more like 2 x 705P + subwoofers instead of 2 x 708P.

The 708P goes a heck of a lot louder than the 705P, but the bass extension FR on paper doesn't look that much deeper.

That makes good sense. Same tradeoff by JBL on the 305 vs 308. I used a pair of 305's in a much too large room. They did better than I expected. When I added a good sub, it was quite an improvement to release them of doing everything below 80 hz. They then had a big at ease sound normally associated with rather large speakers which was quite something in a large room and you only visually saw the little 305 on the stands.