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Horrible Crackling from Topping E1x2

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This is what I've got. Not sure how to manipulate things to get the sort of results you're looking for, apologies.

I think you’re missing a cable from E1x2 output (rearside) to your analog input (front side). That’s why no signal is being recorded.

You’ll also need to use ToppingPro control panel to route Playback 1/2 to the rear output.

Anyways, even without the signal, REW is showing your ANALOG IN noise floor is really really low, which is very good!
 
View attachment 415910
This is what I've got. Not sure how to manipulate things to get the sort of results you're looking for, apologies.
In the preferences window change the "input" under the input device so it corresponds with the connected input.
It could be Left,Right,etc. until you see the tone played (you may have to restart RTA or generator,sometimes it stops when you change stuff and you must restart REW if you unconnect the whole device,it will tell you so)

You can already see the small crosstalk from what you play to the other input,the little line at 1kHz at -140dB or so.
 
Are both usb ports connected to your PC?

If not, connect both usb ports (the one marked power, and the one marked usb-c) to your pc.

See if the above helps or not.


(For me it helped stabilise the power to my E2x2.)
I never thought to try, but it lasted a few songs while deliberately trying to anger the interface through messing about with programs and such, and I think this may have done the trick! I feel silly for not having tried it before, but I will be more relieved if such a simple thing ends up actually being the solution.
 
I think you’re missing a cable from E1x2 output (rearside) to your analog input (front side). That’s why no signal is being recorded.

You’ll also need to use ToppingPro control panel to route Playback 1/2 to the rear output.

Anyways, even without the signal, REW is showing your ANALOG IN noise floor is really really low, which is very good!
In the preferences window change the "input" under the input device so it corresponds with the connected input.
It could be Left,Right,etc. until you see the tone played (you may have to restart RTA or generator,sometimes it stops when you change stuff and you must restart REW if you unconnect the whole device,it will tell you so)

You can already see the small crosstalk from what you play to the other input,the little line at 1kHz at -140dB or so.
Again apologies for the ignorance (maybe could be the title of the thread), but are you asking me to do something like take a guitar cable and plug that into the input and one of the speaker outputs on the back, then run the tests again after making sure all the REW settings line up?
 
Again apologies for the ignorance (maybe could be the title of the thread), but are you asking me to do something like take a guitar cable and plug that into the input and one of the speaker outputs on the back, then run the tests again after making sure all the REW settings line up?
Yes,that's a loopback.
Until now all we saw is the unconnected input.

Make sure Phantom power is off and you can start low in level,something like -30dB and go upwards.
That's the way to see if the output is ok.
Use the shortest TRS cable you have and line input (not Mic) .
 
I think I've got it now. Should I be adjusting any of the dials on my interface?

Testing a bit more music, I made it through a few louder tracks without much issue after plugging in the second USB-C, but it started distorting again periodically with a different track.
 
Should I be adjusting any of the dials on my interface?
Yes,put all input gain at minimum.If other dials are used for output,start low and go your way up.
And unplug you headphones from it,otherwise you may damage them!
Always check before you measure stuff.

If you get this right you'll have the way to test more of your line-level gear to see if they are ok.
It will be the best tool you ever had.
 
Got this when cranking the monitor dial to max and everything else at minimum. Unfortunately, the only cable I have available for the loopback is old, long, and unreliable. I need to wiggle it a bit to get any sort of response. There's probably a joke in there somewhere.
1734949969869.png
 
Got this when cranking the monitor dial to max and everything else at minimum. Unfortunately, the only cable I have available for the loopback is old, long, and unreliable. I need to wiggle it a bit to get any sort of response. There's probably a joke in there somewhere.
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That doesn't look broken to me, especially given the poor quality cable.
 
Got this when cranking the monitor dial to max and everything else at minimum. Unfortunately, the only cable I have available for the loopback is old, long, and unreliable. I need to wiggle it a bit to get any sort of response. There's probably a joke in there somewhere.
View attachment 415929
That's low but at least is clean.Play with levels at windows mixer,check preferences to be all at 0db and you'll get there (ignore my settings outside the blue circle,that was for speaker sweeps)
Try other frequencies too,or dual,triple tone,you can pretty much do anything you like.
At least you have a nice low noise floor,that's the best start.
 
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Do you have another of playing music into the device - e.g. a smartphone. If you do, unplug all cables from the PC and plug in the phone and try some tracks
 
That's low but at least is clean.Play with levels at windows mixer,check preferences to be all at 0db and you'll get there.
Try other frequencies too,or dual,triple tome,you can pretty much do anything you like.
At least you have a nice low noise floor,that's the best start.
Is this meant to test any potential defects with the device?

Do you have another of playing music into the device - e.g. a smartphone. If you do, unplug all cables from the PC and plug in the phone and try some tracks
I could try using it with the USB-C to USB-C cable, never thought to try.

At any rate, I won't be able to run anymore tests tonight, slowly falling sleep here. Might be able to take a crack at it tomorrow night if I can find the time.

Thank y'all for the help.
 
Is this meant to test any potential defects with the device?
Yes,we would see a mess,specially at the noise floor if something was wrong.
When you get it to work for full output we will see the whole picture and test the heaphones output too (with caution,starting very low)

Start fresh tomorrow,now you got the hang of it.
 
I could try using it with the USB-C to USB-C cable, never thought to try.

Yes you should. If you use USB-C PC port, it can supply way more current/power to the device.

USB2 PC port is usually limited to 500mA. That’s why I needed 2 connections on mine to be able to reliably supply 48V phantom power to my microphone.
 
I've managed to get this.
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Seems to want to hang out at exactly -18.00 dBFS after tweaking more settings in ToppingPro.

The Out section under Preferences read at 0 dBFS.
 
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Your ANALOG IN is showing 0dB , most probably you’ve overloaded the input, the sine wave probably gone out of shape, resulting in the spray of harmonics.

Back down the signal a little bit, say by -1dB, it should go back to normal.
 
Gotcha. At any rate, I haven't figured out how to get it lower that -18 dBFS.

Any suggestions on how to get that up, or to solve the issue with the crackling sound?
 
Can you show the Preferences window?
Also check windows mixer,etc,the known suspects.

Dial down the input level a little as what you show is clipped.

By all means -18dB max can't be right,it's either a setting or you got a dude.
 
Gotcha. At any rate, I haven't figured out how to get it lower that -18 dBFS.

Any suggestions on how to get that up, or to solve the issue with the crackling sound?
The crackling sound is most likely due to noise or ground-type interaction with the USB from your PC. Focus on trying the interface fed by a phone only and if you can, power the interface off a high-quality phone charger, not a PC.

IF it still crackles when independently powered and fed music from a phone, it's faulty and you should return it. If it works perfectly on the phone and separate PSU, investigate a USB isolator for your PC.
 
Can you show the Preferences window?
Also check windows mixer,etc,the known suspects.

Dial down the input level a little as what you show is clipped.

By all means -18dB max can't be right,it's either a setting or you got a dude.
1735027896690.png


The crackling sound is most likely due to noise or ground-type interaction with the USB from your PC. Focus on trying the interface fed by a phone only and if you can, power the interface off a high-quality phone charger, not a PC.

IF it still crackles when independently powered and fed music from a phone, it's faulty and you should return it. If it works perfectly on the phone and separate PSU, investigate a USB isolator for your PC.
Given that the crackling is most severe when opening/loading/moving a window or during games, I would be inclined to believe it's some sort of PC problem. I'll try running it off my phone and a charger now to see if that results in anything.
 
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