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Help with deciding subwoofer design.

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Sebr023

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Speakon is a professional connection including isoaltion and there are 90° connectors. Not necassary for home use.
I know this is not needed, but i felt it was more secure that way considering that I have a 2yo running aorund the house. Doesn<t want them to ug on the cable and whatever could happen.

you’re right tho, not the pretties connection, by far.

I already have the 90 degrees spekon connector.

What would you used? Regular speaker terminal?!
 
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Sebr023

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Working on it!
2023-11-08_19h56_06.png
2023-11-08_19h56_42.png



Also, my speakon connector clears the 3/4 birch plywood:
IMG_3909.jpeg
 
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Rick Sykora

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I like speakons for multi-way speakers but they are bulky.

For a simple subwoofer connection, prefer binding posts.
 
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Sebr023

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Got to work a bit on the project yesterday.
I could pocket out the connector piece I 3d printed.
IMG_4160.jpeg
IMG_4159.jpeg
 
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Sebr023

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What adhesive should I use to secure it in place?

This is a sketch of the cross section:
IMG_4179.jpeg


The lip extend 1/2in on every side of the connector. I thought of putting the adhesive in the L corners made by the ABs sheet.
IMG_4135.jpeg

IMG_4135.jpeg


These are the two adhesive I have right now:
is there black pl adhesive - Google Search.png
IMG_4178.png



And this is how it’s going to end up looking.
Added 4 screws for the look!

IMG_4169.jpeg
 

Wolf

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You could screw it down from the back into the wood, then the adhesive won't matter as much.
 

Rick Sykora

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If you need a gasket around the speakON, would use a liquid gasketing product. The DAP product you have seems like it might work, but its lighter color might make it less aesthetically pleasing. Many of these products are fine but have found water cleanup ones are easier to work with. Solvent cleanup ones (notably those that do not harden) seal really well but can make a mess and ruin other surfaces and clothing.

Could use the same stuff to seal the plate to the cabinet. Depends on whether you may want to remove the plate later. Ease of removal can be useful to get access to the back of drivers that need to be removed for servicing. In this case, speaker gasketing tape is often used.
 
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Sebr023

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If you need a gasket around the speakON, would use a liquid gasketing product. The DAP product you have seems like it might work, but its lighter color might make it less aesthetically pleasing. Many of these products are fine but have found water cleanup ones are easier to work with. Solvent cleanup ones (notably those that do not harden) seal really well but can make a mess and ruin other surfaces and clothing.

Could use the same stuff to seal the plate to the cabinet. Depends on whether you may want to remove the plate later. Ease of removal can be useful to get access to the back of drivers that need to be removed for servicing. In this case, speaker gasketing tape is often used.

As for the dap product, I purchased the black one. Not the gray like in the picture. Only use this picture to show what company /product.

The PL max can be sanded and painted, unlike the dap product. And would only use it between the plate and cabinet on the inside, as per my sketch. And red line on the picture. That wouldn’t be visible.

That’s being said. I also purchased speaker gasket tape that I’ll received tomorrow.
I could use screws form the inside or outside to secure the plate in.


IMG_4193.jpeg
 

Rick Sykora

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I am a believer there can be more than one good answer and this is most definitely one of those instances.

I did forget to mention that it may be better to get a sealant than an adhesive though.
 
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Sebr023

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IMG_4363.jpeg
yesterday night I embedded magnet in the baffle for future grille.

One magnet sits a bit proud. Will need to remove and put a new one in.

All the others sits 1mm to 0.5mm below the surface of the wood in order to fill it with something to hide the magnet.

I don’t k ow how I’ll remove a magnet in cute epoxy. That going to be a fun one!
 
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Sebr023

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We call it Teckel as well, but alliteration sounds more smooth.

Thanks for measurements. Interestingly the grilles do not seem to interfere very much. What is You subjective listening experience, really no significant difference of sound signature?

(Btw have overseen the divider, it's no clearly spotable at the image)
I judge came back to see the measurement in room and just notice that the scale was off. You can see the measurement in the thumbnail, but cumulative one, is 10-300hz.

Not very helpful!

I’ll turn on my computer and see if I can change the viewing scale!
 
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Sebr023

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I’m about to install the 1/4 thick steel legs on the subwoofer.

What is best practice to install steel legs one subwoofer? Should I put 1/8 speaker gasket on the touching perimeter in order to stop vibration before screwing them in place? Or the 4x 3/8 bolt securly tighten will keep the legs in place and legs won’t vibrate?

Legs are 4in wide, 1/4 in thick, 16.5in long.

IMG_4073.png
 

Wolf

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Since they are between the heavy box and your floor, I think they are already damped well. Your call, but you can put something like dynamat between the feet and the box, and between the feet and the floor if you so choose.
 
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Sebr023

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Since they are between the heavy box and your floor, I think they are already damped well. Your call, but you can put something like dynamat between the feet and the box, and between the feet and the floor if you so choose.
Good! Thank you!
 

JohnnyAudio

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I have built this one and like it...goes lower than the Carver Sunfire.

SDX12 and Dual APR12 subwoofer
 
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