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Help: Speaker's hum/buzz troubleshooting

direstraitsfan98

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1/ everything (amp/pre/wires/ect...) stays apart from each other.
2/ the yellow wire is considered "C" cable, I used it to test if it's unshielded cable that is the problem.
3/ when I get home, I'll look around to see if I can find something else shielded/unshielded to test more
4/ will find something to try shield the unshielded one to test
Good luck and you could also test the speaker cables too, make sure they are good and tight and aren’t touching anything that’s giving it a buzz.
 
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veeceem

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A few things I've just tested:
- Only the power amp is connected to speakers.
- Only 1 ground point, which is the power amp to the wall outlet.
- Change power amps.
Result:
1/ I tried to wrap the unshielded cable with alu foil. IF:
a/ not connected the GND to the alu shield: hum/buzz still happened
b/ connected the GND to the alu shield: now I can even hear HISS from the speaker
c/ not connected the GND to the alu shield again: HISS gone, but hum/buzz still there.
FYI: the alu shield is NOT touching anything, it is on its own.

2/ FYI: my NAD M22 v2 has an auto-sense the signal to turn itself on if it senses the RCA/XLR cables have 5 mV in them.
a/ if amp turned off, I connect the unshielded cable to rca plug on amp: it turns itself on
b/ if amp turned off, I connected the alu shield cable to rca plug on amp: it turns itself on
c/ I plugged the alu-shielded rca cable to power amp, then turn the amp off, if I use the GND wire to TOUCH the alu-shield, the amp turns itself on again! remember, the alu-shield is not related to or touching the amp or anything!

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Things I haven't tested, but will do after work:
3/ change speaker cables, but I don't think this is the cause, because changing to rca coaxial cable (B) solves everything. Very silent.
4/ try the proper-shielded cable (B) to see if it turns the amp on, but I guess it will, because the hot on rca will "touch the amp" before the shield connected to amp's chassis.
5/ try to touch the outter shell of the (B) cable to see if there's anything happen.
6/ try my DIY 2meters XLR Canare L-4E6S
 
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Doodski

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LOL... don't create anything too too exotic there.. gg* ;)
FQ959NCJ8QGRL3L.png
 
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veeceem

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@Doodski I will DIY my cables from now on to make sure they're properly made, all my cables are DIYs, only those (A) cables aren't :| Oh and my DIY cables are cheap, but have announced specs and wiring diagram, such as Canare L-4E6S
 

Doodski

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veeceem

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The (B) cables are made of Furutech Coaxial FX-Alpha-Ag 75Ω Coaxial Cable with Furutech Plug (DIY) - silent
The (A) cables are Chord Shawline RCA - buzz/hum
The (C) are those generic cables from any electric store. - buzz/hum.
For balanced, I use Canare L-4E6S with Neutrik jacks.
-----------------------------
I need another pair of RCA cable, so maybe I'll choose Canare LV-77S coaxial cable and a pair of Neutrik RCA jacks to DIY
 

Doodski

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The (B) cables are made of Furutech Coaxial FX-Alpha-Ag 75Ω Coaxial Cable with Furutech Plug (DIY) - silent
The (A) cables are Chord Shawline RCA - buzz/hum
The (C) are those generic cables from any electric store. - buzz/hum.
For balanced, I use Canare L-4E6S with Neutrik jacks.
-----------------------------
I need another pair of RCA cable, so maybe I'll choose Canare LV-77S coaxial cable and a pair of Neutrik RCA jacks to DIY
Doesn't hurt having a selection of cables to chose from.
 

NTomokawa

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Chord Shawline RCA
That's pure snake oil. Even the Furutech silver cable is snake oil. There's no reason at all to use a silver conductor "treated with the α(Alpha) process" in a coax. No reason at all.

Definitely build your own if you can't source reasonably-priced and well-built cables. It really doesn't get much better than Canare cable stock and Neutrik jacks.
 

Doodski

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That's pure snake oil. Even the Furutech silver cable is snake oil. There's no reason at all to use a silver conductor "treated with the α(Alpha) process" in a coax. No reason at all.

Definitely build your own if you can't source reasonably-priced and well-built cables. It really doesn't get much better than Canare cable stock and Neutrik jacks.
There's a satisfaction from making up one's own jigs, harnesses, cables and connectors. I've made harnesses up to about 50 feet long like the complete assembly for manufacturing a 12"-24" drilling truck on the back of a heavy duty trail rated Kenworth with the heavy rad option. Then I would mount it and make all connections as the build was billed out and accessorized by the customers. It was like arts and crafts all day and one also gets a great workout all day too.
 
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veeceem

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@NTomokawa I knew, ever since I joined ASR, I've been enlightened :D :D these were bought long time ago when I started this hobby.
Now I just pick any well-shielded cables and good connectors to DIY. That's why I always pick Canare and Neutrik :D Cheap and well-made.
 

NTomokawa

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@NTomokawa I knew, ever since I joined ASR, I've been enlightened :D :D these were bought long time ago when I started this hobby.
Now I just pick any well-shielded cables and good connectors to DIY. That's why I always pick Canare and Neutrik :D Cheap and well-made.
Same here. I once really truly believed in cables and was saving up to buy a $1099 two-inches long gold-conductor dock cable for its "warm, tube-like sound"!

Have fun building your own cables!
 

Kamrooz

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Hey there
I have same issue did you find out ?
I have pioneer lx801 and nad Nad m22
When I use pioneer av for power my speakers there are no noise and buzz
But when use Nad for power my speaker it’s good but when I turn off system there is humming and buzzing noise
I try different speakers wire and power cable
Also I use furman conditioner not help
Why the Nad m22 make noise when is off ?
Thanks
 

AnalogSteph

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I try different speakers wire and power cable
Also I use furman conditioner not help
Surprise. (Not.)
Why the Nad m22 make noise when is off ?
Well, for one thing, it is clearly not off but actually still running. Did you connect the 12 V trigger output on the Pioneer to the corresponding input on the NAD? I hope those have a matching pinout. On the Pioneer, it seems to be tip positive, sleeve ground (a 3.5 mm TS - mono - cable is required). Should this not work out, standard procedure would be turning the power amplifier on last and turning it off first.

You didn't say what kind of cabling you are using between the Pioneer and NAD. Things going noisy when the source is turned off tend to indicate either an unbalanced connection with poor shielding or a balanced connection with poor balance. Output impedance on the pre-outs may be a few hundred ohms when the receiver is running, but when turned off it might go up into the dozens of kOhms, which makes capacitive pickup far easier.

Depending on what your source for the Pioneer is, you may still have a "traditional" ground loop issue to boot.
 

Kamrooz

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Surprise. (Not.)

Well, for one thing, it is clearly not off but actually still running. Did you connect the 12 V trigger output on the Pioneer to the corresponding input on the NAD? I hope those have a matching pinout. On the Pioneer, it seems to be tip positive, sleeve ground (a 3.5 mm TS - mono - cable is required). Should this not work out, standard procedure would be turning the power amplifier on last and turning it off first.

You didn't say what kind of cabling you are using between the Pioneer and NAD. Things going noisy when the source is turned off tend to indicate either an unbalanced connection with poor shielding or a balanced connection with poor balance. Output impedance on the pre-outs may be a few hundred ohms when the receiver is running, but when turned off it might go up into the dozens of kOhms, which makes capacitive pickup far easier.

Depending on what your source for the Pioneer is, you may still have a "traditional" ground loop issue to boot.
Thank you so much for your time and care
I didn’t use 12 v trigger,
I use audioquest 44 wire
Also when i connect directly to pioneer no problem
Also I have 2 other amp and no problem
 
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