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Help choosing electronics for my 2.1 system

pingust

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Hey all,

Want to preface this by saying that I am really grateful this forum exists and people like you give your precious time to talk on it. I have recently came across this forum and it's been fascinating to learn from the threads and catch a glimpse of what the world of audio science looks like. I've always been passionate about listening to music and hearing all the subtle sounds, but never really afforded any quality gadgets in the past.

Lately I have acquired my first pair of bookshelf speakers - a pair of Elac DBR 6.2, and a SVS SB-1000 sub. These costed me about 800 euros.

I want to make a 2.1 system that I can use to listen to music and watch 4K movies, and am considering the DIY route as opposed to getting an AVR. There are a couple reasons for this:
- I think it'll satisfy me to build it myself
- I can't find recommended AVRs for cheap (i.e Denon X series), they're all 1400 euros + new and there aren't any used ones I can find in my area.

I'd really only want to spend around 700 euros assembling this system, I'm not sure if that's possible.

I have considered integrated amps like sabaj a30a which would allow me to crossover the sub, but I don't see how I'd be able to connect my TV to it and play movie audio.

Room is small, around 11ft x 8ft, and I live in an apartment and have neighbours, so I won't be playing music very loud.

What do you think? Any help / insight would be great :)

Thanks!
 

staticV3

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Hi @pingust! Welcome to ASR.

In case your SB-1000 is the original, non-Pro version, then it actually has a fully featured crossover inside with a configurable LPF for the sub and a fixed 80Hz HPF for the Line out:
Screenshot_20240207-203643_Drive.png

That means that you don't necessarily need special electronics for this.
You can simply do TV->DAC->SB-1000->Amp->DBR-62.

That being said, one of the best value electronics for such a 2.1 project, the WiiM Amp, does have the ability to cross over Sub and Mains, as well as the ability to apply room correction via the built-in Parametric EQ.

Better yet, where most DACs can only be connected to a TV via Toslink, necessitating an additional remote just for controlling the DAC's volume, the WiiM Amp's HDMI ARC input means that you can continue using the TV's own remote for volume control, so long as it supports HDMI ARC and CEC.
 
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pingust

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Hi @pingust! Welcome to ASR.

In case your SB-1000 is the original, non-Pro version, then it actually has a fully featured crossover inside with a configurable LPF for the sub and a fixed 80Hz HPF for the Line out:
View attachment 348030

That means that you don't necessarily need special electronics for this.
You can simply do TV->DAC->SB-1000->Amp->DBR-62.
Many thanks for your swift reply!

Is my understanding correct that in this case the speakers will still play the low frequencies and risk getting muddy bass sound? Since both sub and speakers will be playing bass.

Yes it's the SB-1000 non pro version.

Also, from what you're suggesting, the DAC and AMP are separated and not integrated, is that right?
 

staticV3

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Is my understanding correct that in this case the speakers will still play the low frequencies and risk getting muddy bass sound? Since both sub and speakers will be playing bass.
No. In my example above, you'd be using the SVS's Line out to feed your Mains.
The SVS's Line out filters out bass below 80Hz, so that your Mains don't have to play that.

Also, from what you're suggesting, the DAC and AMP are separated and not integrated, is that right?
If you'd like to use the SVS's built-in HPF, then a separate DAC and Amp would be most convenient I think.

Something like the SMSL PS100 for DAC duties plus an Aiyima A07/A07 Max or Fosi V3/ZA3 for the Elacs.

However, there are integrated Amps with a built-in DAC where you could insert the SVS between the Preamp and the Power Amp to still make use of its LPF.

The Audiolab A6000 is one such example:
 
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pingust

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No. In my example above, you'd be using the SVS's Line out to feed your Mains.
The SVS's Line out filters out bass below 80Hz, so that your Mains don't have to play that.


If you'd like to use the SVS's built-in HPF, then a separate DAC and Amp would be most convenient I think.

Something like the SMSL PS100 for DAC duties plus an Aiyima A07/A07 Max or Fosi V3/ZA3 for the Elacs.

However, there are integrated Amps with a built-in DAC where you could insert the SVS between the Preamp and the Power Amp to still make use of its LPF.

The Audiolab A6000 is one such example:
Thanks a lot for the answers, they're really insightful and help me understand how everything fits together better :)

I'm not sure whether I should be wanting to use the built-in HPF or the built-in LPF. Though I've browsed the forum for more in-depth reasoning for each, I can't say I really understand enough to be opinionated about which one I should want more. So far it seems to me that either works, it's only a matter of convenience when used in a particular setup.

Taking a look at your recommendations, the SMSL PS100 combined with either of those amps would be a lot cheaper than the A6000. I guess here the sound signature will be different for them so it's hard to compare them, guess it's more of personal taste. I could be wrong though.

You've suggested the Wiim Amp as an alternative in a previous reply, is that something to consider over the A6000?

Anyway, you've given me plenty to consider here, and some more to study!
 

DVDdoug

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I'm not sure whether I should be wanting to use the built-in HPF or the built-in LPF.
A proper crossover has both. Low pass to the woofer and high-pass to the mains. Your sub does that. But you do need a way to process the line-level signal. Some integrated amps, preamps, and receivers have a "tape loop" or a "processing loop" where you can break-in before the power amp section.

An AVR is another good solution, and it will give you the "point one" Low Frequency Effects channel from movies which is otherwise lost. (With neighbors you may not want that. ;) ) You get a LOT for your money with an AVR because they are mass-produced sold into a very competitive market. (My Sony AVR wasn't "recommended" but it only cost about $300 USD and I don't have any complaints.)
 
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pingust

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An AVR is another good solution, and it will give you the "point one" Low Frequency Effects channel from movies which is otherwise lost.
Interesting to know, is this because of the eARC input that it preserves the low frequency effects? Should that be something to keep an eye on if I want these effects preserved? Or is it more related to the software running inside of it.

With the budget I have I could get a cheap-ish used receiver for movies experience and also get a couple cheap-ish gadgets to fiddle with for better music experience, whatever better would mean.
 
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