Good quality RCA > XLR cables

[DuncanDirkDick]

Doing it is not a problem. I just can't really see the advantage of using STP over coax when it's essentially a single ended connection.

 

[Room_101]

I want to make an RCA to XLR cable for the ~16' run from our McIntosh C32 preamp to MC2600 amp. I see 2 different ways of making this connection in 3 different diagrams here. Can someone please help me figure out whether I should use the method shown in the Rane diagram or the method in the Ghent and unsourced 3rd diagrams for our components? (I'm still very ignorant about the electrical side of audio and can only understand a small fraction of the information on these forums.)

Speedskater mentioned above that the XLR input should have pin 1 connected to chassis ground and referred to a "Pin 1 Problem" that has been known since 1995 though still wrong in some newer equipment. AnalogSteph noted that the Rane connection should be used only if both sides are grounded -- otherwise use the connection shown in the Ghent & third diagrams. However, the third diagram says you can safely connect the shield to the RCA shell IF the RCA shell of the source component is bonded to the chassis. This seems contradictory to AnalogSteph's advice if I'm understanding correctly.

Can anyone tell me if the C32 (1977-82) and MC2600 (1990-95) are properly grounded to chassis? Sadly, I don't know how to read the schematics in a service manual. Should I use the Rane method or the Ghent method for this connection?

Thank you!!

 

[pseudoid]

You also have option #4: Getting a pair of RCA-to-XLR adapters and then running a pair of XLR-to-XLR cables (of your desired length) all the way thru... such adapters may become unwieldy.

 

[Room_101]

You also have option #4: Getting a pair of RCA-to-XLR adapters and then running a pair of XLR-to-XLR cables (of your desired length) all the way thru... such adapters may become unwieldy.

Do the adapters tie pin 1 to the RCA ground (along with pin 3), or do they leave pin 1 open? Or are they available both ways? I want to figure out which approach works with my equipment and provides the best noise rejection. It seems like using an adapter would just avoid the question instead of answering it.

 

[Chrispy]

I want to make an RCA to XLR cable for the ~16' run from our McIntosh C32 preamp to MC2600 amp. I see 2 different ways of making this connection in 3 different diagrams here. Can someone please help me figure out whether I should use the method shown in the Rane diagram or the method in the Ghent and unsourced 3rd diagrams for our components? (I'm still very ignorant about the electrical side of audio and can only understand a small fraction of the information on these forums.)

Speedskater mentioned above that the XLR input should have pin 1 connected to chassis ground and referred to a "Pin 1 Problem" that has been known since 1995 though still wrong in some newer equipment. AnalogSteph noted that the Rane connection should be used only if both sides are grounded -- otherwise use the connection shown in the Ghent & third diagrams. However, the third diagram says you can safely connect the shield to the RCA shell IF the RCA shell of the source component is bonded to the chassis. This seems contradictory to AnalogSteph's advice if I'm understanding correctly.

Can anyone tell me if the C32 (1977-82) and MC2600 (1990-95) are properly grounded to chassis? Sadly, I don't know how to read the schematics in a service manual. Should I use the Rane method or the Ghent method for this connection?

Thank you!!

I just followed Neutrik's recos.

 

[Room_101]

I just followed Neutrik's recos.

Where did you find Neutrik's recommendation? I haven't seen that one.

 

[pseudoid]

Do the adapters tie pin 1 to the RCA ground (along with pin 3), or do they leave pin 1 open? Or are they available both ways? I want to figure out which approach works with my equipment and provides the best noise rejection. It seems like using an adapter would just avoid the question instead of answering it.

Switchcraft 322X 3-Pin XLR Female to RCA Female Adapter, Nickel Finish
Brand: Switchcraft
$17.76
From <https://www.amazon.com/Switchcraft-322X-Female-Adapter-Nickel/dp/B00C5B2DXY>
Brad Rockwood - Bad Discription
February 7, 2014
The adapter arrived and is was not wired. One red lead from the inner barrel of the RCA and nothing else. You have to build it yourself.
Once again a bad product description from vendor.
One person found this helpful
Jonathan F. Herron -Actually, these adapters are wired EXACTLY right
December 1, 2014
Sorry, but the other review is mistaken.
There are two common ways to wire an XLR to RCA adapter: in this case, Pin 3 floats (is not connected to anything), which is better when using these adapters on the output of a high quality, low output impedance piece of pro gear. If Pin 3 is tied to ground (the other way), it is the preamp equivalent of shorting a speaker wire to ground. The output buffer will overheat and likely distort something awful, usually within 15-20 minutes.
Since the output of this thing is a single-ended signal, and the outer ring of the RCA is tied to the chassis ground, the only remaining signal that needs to be connected is Pin 2 (the red wire mentioned in the other review). Ground is handled by the body of the adapter.
These are the only such adapters I will use with our products, which are designed to pro-sound standards in terms of the balanced interface.
From <https://www.amazon.com/Switchcraft-322X-Female-Adapter-Nickel/dp/B00C5B2DXY>

 

[pseudoid]

Just putting it out there. I make cables for my studio and for people in general if anyone needs anything made.

Few **MOPO tips for the cable DIY (old or new) types:

• Always use fixturing (vise/clamps) to secure/position BOTH the cable and the connector, for proper/easy soldering.
• Sometimes it is advisable to attach the connector (to be soldered) to its mating pair for dissipating the heat build-up away from its plastic shell.
• When soldering, to a multi-pin connector, REMEMBER that the pin# will be flipped on the solder-cup side, unless the pin# call-out label is on that side of the connector.

**MOPO=Master Of the Painfully Obvious!

 

[fudun]

I figured I'd necro this thread instead of making a new one.

I have just ordered my first units with balanced inputs, and while I am in this process I will need some temporary cables until I have everything running balanced.

So what I need to do the initial setup and testing is

1. Minijack to XLR balanced (from laptop to iLoud MTM or Laptop to Kali WS 6.2)
2. RCA to XLR balanced (from MiniDSP DDR-24 to monitors and sub)

So as far as I have understood from reading up on this, the main issue is whether to connect the shield on the source/unbalanced side - and this depends on whether the source unit has a floating ground or not. Are both laptops and MiniDSPs in general considered "floating"?

Are there any good premade Minijack to XLR cables out there? Preferably with individual cables so I can run them to separate speakers.

 

[AnalogSteph]

Are both laptops and MiniDSPs in general considered "floating"?

Depends on what you connect to them. The MiniDSP with Toslink input would be. By contrast, laptop power supplies vary widely. They can be plain IEC Class I (earthed), IEC Class II with ground lead and 1 kOhm between secondary-side round to PE (e.g. classic Thinkpad supplies), or IEC Class II with 2-prong mains plug where grounding should probably be provided externally in order to keep mains leakage at bay.

Are there any good premade Minijack to XLR cables out there?

Good question. Cordial CFY WMM(-Long) seem to be a bust, unfortunately.

 

[Plastic Jeezus]

I figured I'd necro this thread instead of making a new one.

I have just ordered my first units with balanced inputs, and while I am in this process I will need some temporary cables until I have everything running balanced.

So what I need to do the initial setup and testing is

1. Minijack to XLR balanced (from laptop to iLoud MTM or Laptop to Kali WS 6.2)
2. RCA to XLR balanced (from MiniDSP DDR-24 to monitors and sub)

So as far as I have understood from reading up on this, the main issue is whether to connect the shield on the source/unbalanced side - and this depends on whether the source unit has a floating ground or not. Are both laptops and MiniDSPs in general considered "floating"?

Are there any good premade Minijack to XLR cables out there? Preferably with individual cables so I can run them to separate speakers.

I have ordered from Ghent Audio several times and am very happy with the quality.

Im not sure that is exactly what you need , but they probably have other versions.

B05 --- 3.5mm TRS to unBalanced XLR 4N-OFC Y-cable

3.5mm TRS to unBalanced 2 x XLR(male) Y-cable (1pc) --- Choseal 4N-OFC (99.99%), high quality RFI and EMI protection

ghentaudio.com

 

[fudun]

I have ordered from Ghent Audio several times and am very happy with the quality.

Im not sure that is exactly what you need , but they probably have other versions.

B05 --- 3.5mm TRS to unBalanced XLR 4N-OFC Y-cable

3.5mm TRS to unBalanced 2 x XLR(male) Y-cable (1pc) --- Choseal 4N-OFC (99.99%), high quality RFI and EMI protection

ghentaudio.com

Yes, those are the connectors I need. I would need a long split, like the ones Steph mentions. It would be interesting to know how the pins are connected, though (whether there is a shield connected on the minijack end or not).

 

[fudun]

Depends on what you connect to them. The MiniDSP with Toslink input would be. By contrast, laptop power supplies vary widely. They can be plain IEC Class I (earthed), IEC Class II with ground lead and 1 kOhm between secondary-side round to PE (e.g. classic Thinkpad supplies), or IEC Class II with 2-prong mains plug where grounding should probably be provided externally in order to keep mains leakage at bay.

Good question. Cordial CFY WMM(-Long) seem to be a bust, unfortunately.

Thanks for answering! But wow, that goes way beyond my tech or language proficiency!

I prefer Toslink usually. Would a connected USB (for programming) to the MiniDSP affect whether the ground is floating? The current laptop is an older Dell XPS 15, and the PSU looks like this https://cdon.no/elektronikk/130w-ac...-9560-9570-inspiron-7347-7348-7459-p128077239