Genelec 8010 XLR cable problem

[JeremyFife]

I'm limited by space a lot so I could only raise them up about 2 cm

Might be all you need

 

[Bucking]

Maybe some padding that I can cut out a part so the cable can fit

 

[Berwhale]

I've also found those but they won't fit due to the way the XLR port is positioned on the 8010s.

View attachment 323308

When a cable has Neutrik connectors like this: https://www.thomann.de/de/pro_snake_xlr_patch_winkelmale_90cm.htm

You can change the cable outlet position...

NC3MRX

3 pole right angle male cable connector, nickel housing, silver contactsThe RX Series is the right angle version of the XX cable connector series. The successor of the RC series offers several new features which make it more reliable, easier to assemble and improves contact integrity as well...

www.neutrik.com

So I think you will be able to unscrew the plug, change the angle and screw it back together again (no soldering required!). You should check with Thomann that the cable I linked to does have that model Neutrik connector (i'm not sure if all the right angled Neutrik plugs have the adjustable outlet)

 

[Bucking]

When a cable has Neutrik connectors like this: https://www.thomann.de/de/pro_snake_xlr_patch_winkelmale_90cm.htm

You can change the cable outlet position...

View attachment 323350

NC3MRX

3 pole right angle male cable connector, nickel housing, silver contactsThe RX Series is the right angle version of the XX cable connector series. The successor of the RC series offers several new features which make it more reliable, easier to assemble and improves contact integrity as well...

www.neutrik.com

So I think you will be able to unscrew the plug, change the angle and screw it back together again (no soldering required!). You should check with Thomann that the cable I linked to does have that model Neutrik connector (i'm not sure if all the right angled Neutrik plugs have the adjustable outlet)

Will try
Thank you

 

[Berwhale]

Will try
Thank you

The arrow points to the sleeve that you rotate inside the plug barrel. The notches on the sleeve and the barrel need to be lined up and the back cover then engages in both notches and locks them into position...

 

[Bucking]

Seems like the maximum length for these is 1 meter that's kinda short

 

[Berwhale]

There are companies in the UK that will make the cable to your specification e.g.

Van Damme STARQUAD Cable. Neutrik Right Angle Female XLR to Male XLR

Van Damme Starquad XKE balanced cables (268-026-000) Mixed silver plated and bare copper conductors (UPOFC). Capacitance Core to screen - 91 pF/m. Neutrik NC3FRX and NC3MXX connectors. Manufactured using 3.5% silver solder. Free Velcro Cable tie with all lengths 2m and over.

www.designacable.com

or

Custom Lynx 3-Pin Angled Male to Female XLR Cable - TESTUDO - Custom Lynx

Custom Lynx TESTUDO Double Shielded Balanced Microphone Cable – Full Spec Below Neutrik Connectors All Colours + Lengths Available Free Hook + Loop Wrap With Each Cable Ordered Over 2m Lifetime Guarantee Against Manufacturing Defects

custom-lynx.co.uk

I assume there are similar companies in Germany. They would probably set the plug at correct angle if you explain your requirement for the Genelec.

 

[Bucking]

Haven't found one yet but I'll keep looking

 

[OldHvyMec]

I don't see a problem with the way it is. XLR patch cables and connections are pretty quick, tight and easy to know, if there is a good connection.
Bending the cable as you have will have no ill effect for the first 300+ tweeks at that position . If you look, it is a slow sweeping bend over an
inch from the actual connections in the barrel. If there is an eco collar that sealed the cable to the terminal end, that is even better. It can't pull
on the screws or soldered ends.

XLRs were and are for pro use, (tongue in cheek). I think the cable will outlast the speaker to tell the truth. I just make sure the terminal end I use have
copper terminal ends and the cabling is copper.

Shy a few phono stages, I'm all XLR. I've pulled a few heavy cabinet (250 pounders) on dollies with just #20 or 18 patch cables.
Minor sound adjustments.

You're not one of those people that dance on your desk on Fridays are you? Just askin'

Maybe silicon the speakers to the desk, put a hole through the desk and plug in the patch. Put a cable grommet where you drilled the hole. Look
like it was made that way, unless it's an antique desk or something.

I'm trying to fix something that isn't broke. Let me rethink this.

Regards.

 

[Bucking]

I don't see a problem with the way it is. XLR patch cables and connections are pretty quick, tight and easy to know, if there is a good connection.
Bending the cable as you have will have no ill effect for the first 300+ tweeks at that position . If you look, it is a slow sweeping bend over an
inch from the actual connections in the barrel. If there is an eco collar that sealed the cable to the terminal end, that is even better. It can't pull
on the screws or soldered ends.

XLRs were and are for pro use, (tongue in cheek). I think the cable will outlast the speaker to tell the truth. I just make sure the terminal end I use have
copper terminal ends and the cabling is copper.

Shy a few phono stages, I'm all XLR. I've pulled a few heavy cabinet (250 pounders) on dollies with just #20 or 18 patch cables.
Minor sound adjustments.

You're not one of those people that dance on your desk on Fridays are you? Just askin'

Maybe silicon the speakers to the desk, put a hole through the desk and plug in the patch. Put a cable grommet where you drilled the hole. Look
like it was made that way, unless it's an antique desk or something.

I'm trying to fix something that isn't broke. Let me rethink this.

Regards.

I'll probably just leave it like it is and see if problems occur

 

[Dunring]

But I'd need male right angled not female

They make both types, same price

CESS-043 XLR Right-Angle Male to Straight Female Microphone Extension Cable, 2 Pack

 

[nagster]

my proposal.
Do you not own a standard NEUTRIK XLR (NC3MXX) cable?
If so, NC3MRX, which many people have posted, is convenient. You can change the straight type to the right angle type by replacing only the housing.
You can change the straight type and right angle type at any time with your bare hands by replacing the yellow circle in the picture. Previously, I replaced the standard XLR cable terminal (NC3MXX) with NC3MRX.
The insert and cable remain soldered. Chuck and bushing are still passed through the cable. No soldering iron or screwdriver required.
Save the replaced straight housing. Your environment may change in the future and you may want to change it back.

There is also the option of purchasing a straight type NEUTRIK XLR (NC3MXX) cable and NC3MRX terminal from the beginning.
Stores may have limited stock of right-angle XLR cables, but they probably stock straight XLR cables in a variety of types (belden? canare?), lengths, and colors.

 

[Berwhale]

my proposal.
Do you not own a standard NEUTRIK XLR (NC3MXX) cable?
If so, NC3MRX, which many people have posted, is convenient. You can change the straight type to the right angle type by replacing only the housing.
You can change the straight type and right angle type at any time with your bare hands by replacing the yellow circle in the picture. Previously, I replaced the standard XLR cable terminal (NC3MXX) with NC3MRX.
The insert and cable remain soldered. Chuck and bushing are still passed through the cable. No soldering iron or screwdriver required.
Save the replaced straight housing. Your environment may change in the future and you may want to change it back.

There is also the option of purchasing a straight type NEUTRIK XLR (NC3MXX) cable and NC3MRX terminal from the beginning.
Stores may have limited stock of right-angle XLR cables, but they probably stock straight XLR cables in a variety of types (belden? canare?), lengths, and colors.

That's a good call, but I don't think the existing cables have Neutrik connectors - they look like Rean, which I think is owned by Neutrik, but is a bit more of a budget line.

 

[Berwhale]

Another option is to carefully cut a section of the strain relief off the back of the plug to allow the cable to bend a bit closer to the pins (i.e. with a greater radius).

 

[Bucking]

Do you mean that part?

 

[MAB]

Do you mean that part?

View attachment 323454

Yeah, that entire strain-relief can be removed, cut, enlarged, modified, etc.

Looks like your connectors use a press-on strain-relief (like the one left of the above picture). Some are thread-on. All can be easily modified. You could even shorten the connector body on the Cannon connector I showed, so long as you smooth over any remaining sharp edges.

 

[JeffGB]

Am I the only one who has thoughts of a "redneck" solution, like drilling a hole in your desk on each side? Cheap and even gets the cable off the desk. Not good if you like to move your speakers a lot .

 

[Bucking]

Yeah, that entire strain-relief can be removed, cut, enlarged, modified, etc.
View attachment 323456
Looks like your connectors use a press-on strain-relief (like the one left of the above picture). Some are thread-on. All can be easily modified. You could even shorten the connector body on the Cannon connector I showed, so long as you smooth over any remaining sharp edges.

This works perfectly don't know why I haven't tried that yet

 

[Berwhale]

Am I the only one who has thoughts of a "redneck" solution, like drilling a hole in your desk on each side? Cheap and even gets the cable off the desk. Not good if you like to move your speakers a lot .

...or you could turn the speakers upside down, or put them on their side

 

[Berwhale]

This works perfectly don't know why I haven't tried that yet

I knew we'd get there in the end!