- Sep 20, 2021
I'm running a topping E50 with the A20a using balanced cables and it sounds wonderful. Check out the review of the E50 here on ASR.
Come on, there is such a wide range of pure DACs available. Should not be too hard to make a choice.Thanks...so maybe i should looking for alternatives of the little dac that i have. Could you link some of your choices?
I got one of these this week.
I've not experienced any noise problems on the RCA inputs mentioned in this thread. Just lots of good, clean power. Reading the comments I was mentally selecting a balanced DAC to replace my current one but I needn't have worried.
It sounds noticeably different to the amp it replaced which was Cambridge Audio one built in 2009. I think that was quite a warm, soft sound so this is brighter and clearer sounding.
I'm using an SMSL M100 MkII DAC via RCA cables. The only noise I can detect is if I turn it to max (0dB) with no input, and put my ear right to the speaker and then I can hear a very faint noise. I.e. it is essentially silent without input. It has plenty of power. I can't go much over -30dD in my small room without distressing my ears so loads of headroom.
I can't get too excited by amps but does exactly what I wanted: plenty of power, quality clean sound, small footprint, low cost. £145 from Hifi Express and unexpectedly delivered by Amazon.
If Amir ever tests one, will be interesting to see how it measures.
The 15V power output is prepared for the DAC A20d, so I think it's about Max 1A. Unfortunately, there was no description anywhere.Does anyone know what is the max Amperage value for the 15V output on the back of A20a?
I am hesitant to assume it is only as much as the DAC puts out. I think it would be more difficult to limit it to just 1A, than to let it go at least several Amps more as a bolt-on to such a large power supply.The 15V power output is prepared for the DAC A20d, so I think it's about Max 1A. Unfortunately, there was no description anywhere.
No, it is easy for such a power supply unit to get a sub-output of 15V.I am hesitant to assume it is only as much as the DAC puts out. I think it would be more difficult to limit it to just 1A, than to let it go at least several Amps more as a bolt-on to such a large power supply.
I am talking about Amperes, not Volts.No, it is easy for such a power supply unit to get a sub-output of 15V.
I answered in that sense.I am talking about Amperes, not Volts.
Topping's DX3 Pro + is a model with a built-in headphone amplifier in the DAC and consumes a lot of power in the headphone amplifier.I got Sabaj A20a and it paired beautifully with Topping D30 (which draws 3W 15V when on), powering it from its own internal PSU with included cable. Sound was clear and background was silent.
However, I just got DX3 Pro+ (draws 6W 15V when on), and it causes the Sabaj PSU to coil-whine when DAC is in standby, and makes it even louder when DAC is turned on. I think it is the Sabaj, but it's hard to tell with such a short cable in between the devices.
This does not happen when the DAC is powered with its own factory PSU.
This is a bummer, because makes equipment placement much harder if DAC can't be powered form the Amp.
Is there anything that can be done to remove the coil whine?
Actually, if I am powering the DAC from external PSU, then Sabaj A20a (bought a week agon on Amazon.de) clicks like crazy while playing bass-intensive music (Toto - Odenkoza).
So it is either coil whine or crazy clicking.
So the coil whine is because of excessive (3W) power draw from Sabaj 5V output?Topping's DX3 Pro + is a model with a built-in headphone amplifier in the DAC and consumes a lot of power in the headphone amplifier.
The A20a's DC15V output is not intended for use with such large current loads.
Your A20a seems to make a clicking sound from the internal power supply, is it an early model?
The A20a currently on the market has been improved so that there is no click sound.
Do you know what means what in a serial number? What designates the newer, fixed version?Serial numbers are printed on the PCB.
Paying an extra 100euro for a PSU to fix a brand you 180euro AMP just to make it right is not my idea of a good deal :/If your A20a starts clicking with the base-line of a track, there is a problem with the relay. Coupling the A20a with a DAC from the 15V out does better it by raising the limit at which the amp starts clicking to a higher volume level. This will give you some room, but will most likely not totally rid you of it. It might still occur on very high volume. I had the same problem. I did not want to wait for a new amp from China. So I bought a Meanwell RPS-400-24 and installed it instead. Yep, sounds better. No clicking, no whining, no burst [email protected] possibly creating interference in the audio band anymore. Idle power consumption goes up from 2W->6W.
All in this thread
Since it is the symptom that occurred at the beginning of the release, I think it is better to return it if it can be returned.Do you know what means what in a serial number? What designates the newer, fixed version?
Paying an extra 100euro for a PSU to fix a brand you 180euro AMP just to make it right is not my idea of a good deal :/