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DIY Purifi Amp builds
- Thread starter JimB
- Start date
He only answers if he thinks he has something he can sell you. I've emailed him about a new Purifi adapted back panel and got crickets. Another time I emailed him about a wiring harnass for dual SMPS600S400s for that case, and he was johnny on the spot with a quote. So if he can't sell you, he won't even do the courtesy of answering you.
That's a shame. I mentioned that there are multiple forums worth of people interested in this. If he wanted to capitalize on this he could have a case option that would be a solderless "drop in" for Eval-1 and I'm sure a lot of people would buy it. While I personally would use different buffers, it seems a large number of people are just using the EVAL1 as-is.
I also emailed Ghent earlier this week and received no response re: EVAL1 case.
Modushop and Purifi have both been very helpful and responsive to my emails.
Looking at pictures of the GX288, it looks like the top and bottom panels sit atop/below the back panel without overlapping it.
Regarding positioning of the 1200A400, is it better to try and position it such that its aluminum "L" bracket is in physical contact with the front panel? The ideal would be to try to maximize heat transfer to the front panel. I'm not planning any VU meters or centered button on this build so I might as well try to use the front panel as an additional heat sink. Or, is it better to position it to allow air flow across the "L" bracket internally?
Modushop and Purifi have both been very helpful and responsive to my emails.
Looking at pictures of the GX288, it looks like the top and bottom panels sit atop/below the back panel without overlapping it.
Regarding positioning of the 1200A400, is it better to try and position it such that its aluminum "L" bracket is in physical contact with the front panel? The ideal would be to try to maximize heat transfer to the front panel. I'm not planning any VU meters or centered button on this build so I might as well try to use the front panel as an additional heat sink. Or, is it better to position it to allow air flow across the "L" bracket internally?
Both options are good. Just keep in mind that to get air flow, you need input and output. Meaning that you need vents in the bottom plate, close to the SMPS.
If vents are an option, maybe the ideal would be "L" on the front plate + vents on the bottom on each side of the SMPS
I also sent question to Ghent with no answer so far...
When it comes to e covers of GX288 can you post photos showing that? I was suspecting the same but I couldn’t find the confirmation...
The default upper panel has vents towards the rear. My plan was to add small slots to the bottom panel too, in the middle (between SMPS and amp boards) and the side or sides of the SMPS. Just not sure what sort of machining cost that'll incur. (And I'll need to add some feet too of course.)
I am pretty sure this picture is of a GX288, re: top panel and rear panel interface concern:
http://bilder.hifi-forum.de/max/379928/2013-06-23-13-40-48_346783.jpg
Looks like a good plan.
Both top and bottom have identical vent holes. You can install the covers both ways. I put bottom vents to the back (below the amp modules) and top vents in the front, so they are just over the SMPS. SMPS heatsink is touching the front panel. Plastic feet from Aliexpress, pack of 10 was about 2€.
Modu shop also have these top and bottom covers with a lot of vent holes. Their cases are modular and very customizable. For example laser engraved Purifi logo in front, etc.
https://modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/product&path=307&product_id=585&limit=100
Bottom and top goes over the backpanel, to me those measurement look correct. Picture of my amp attached.Anybody already ordered this enclosure from modushop?
I ask them for this modification and I received cad files with drawing of the back panel. I’m afraid that arrangement of the holes has been done improperly.
Their drawing shows that banana plugs are located 17 mm from bottom edge. Exactly the same distance as shown in purify documentation. But we have to take into consideration thickness of bottom cover (2mm at GX288?) on which EVAL1 will be placed. At the end Eval1 won’t fit into holes (or you bend pcb to fit it into right position)
View attachment 68759View attachment 68760
I’ve just found this photo a while before you posted it
Thank you for confirmation! Indeed it looks like we can use this drawing for CNC cut.BTW, do you have any problems with XLR connectors on back panel? Based on drawings, EVAL1 is designed for 2mm back panel (gx288 is 3mm thick).
No problems, connector locks in place and lock opening tabs work fine.
If you look carefully at the Modushop drawings from Purifi, they specify 2mm thickness over most of the back panel, and, in fact, Modushop thins out the back panel's inside accordingly. I have enclosure panels in hand and can attest to the beautiful machining and packaging, though haven't had the chance to test fit at all yet.
Many thanks to Matias and Purifi for making this design available; simplifies a lot! And thanks to everyone who's contributed useful info to this thread.
Many thanks to Matias and Purifi for making this design available; simplifies a lot! And thanks to everyone who's contributed useful info to this thread.
You are welcome. In fact I am looking forward to see a Purifi amp based on Modu shop GX288 similar to Purifi's demo unit! Who will be the brave first one?
Give us some pictures
OP
- Thread Starter
- #1,217
Let me jump in here. I KNOW Ghent is working on a case optimized for the PURIFI stuff, because I have lent them a full set of parts to do a build so they can get the details right. While the time to get this is frustrating (I am waiting to buy them, too!), COVID-19 delays in China have been significant, AND they are designing it for a new chassis size, 250mm wide, so there is a lot of extra work to dial-in the extrusion. I also know they want it to be 'right', before they offer it. As one might expect, they want to offer a version that is easy for the largest number of people to build. I am also hopeful that they will quickly offer one or more upgraded variants, similar to what they have done for Hypex amps in the past.
Which is what I plan to do as soon as I secure a shop to fabricate the new back panel and drill holes for the case bottom. As far as I'm concerned, the performance of the unit is already stellar, so why would I want to risk it by taking my admittedly unexperienced hand to it with a soldering iron and risk damaging or degrading its performance, just so I can say I added my personal touch to the design.
If you place it so that it directly abuts the front panel, that will make it difficult to even place an on/off led light. Personally, I'd like to know if the amp is live before I do something like disconnect a speaker cable, or even just to know if I'm drawing power which I, of course, am paying for.
I am also not sure the SMPS really needs that for heat dissipation.
Do you have a contact at Modus Shop?
