DIY Purifi Amp builds

[NTSOS]

Hi,

Finished my amp....yay, the last two connections added were /AMPON and /FATAL (Amp Enable and DC Error). I didn't add an on/off switch on the chassis, electing instead to use a wireless remote as I'm lazy. Waiting for speakers now.

John

https://pbase.com/iolair/image/171341630

https://pbase.com/iolair/image/171341629

https://pbase.com/iolair/image/171341631

https://pbase.com/iolair/image/171341632

https://pbase.com/iolair/image/171341636

 

[JimB]

Hi,

Finished my amp....yay, the last two connections added were /AMPON and /FATAL (Amp Enable and DC Error). I didn't add an on/off switch on the chassis, electing instead to use a wireless remote as I'm lazy. Waiting for speakers now.

John

https://pbase.com/iolair/image/171341630

https://pbase.com/iolair/image/171341629

https://pbase.com/iolair/image/171341631

https://pbase.com/iolair/image/171341632

https://pbase.com/iolair/image/171341636

I suspect your cooling will be adequate.

You are running it "inverted" - components down, rather than up, right? Did you use any thermal transfer paste under the SMPS and amp modules?

How will you remote control the power? Any plans for cosmetic modifications while waiting for speakers?

 

[NTSOS]

I suspect your cooling will be adequate.

You are running it "inverted" - components down, rather than up, right? Did you use any thermal transfer paste under the SMPS and amp modules?

How will you remote control the power? Any plans for cosmetic modifications while waiting for speakers?

Yes, the cooling should be adequate since it was originally designed to cool my Raptor stepper motor drivers.

No cosmetic mods for this one, I'm going to build two more cases for the mono-blocks and I will use either a glass beading finish or maybe a highly polished aluminum look or a powder coat.

Yes, I did use thermal paste.

I will use this remote.....click it and about two or three seconds the amps fire up after the SMPS voltages stabilize. Next two will also use a latching type button with the MicroAudio SMPS.

https://pbase.com/iolair/image/171341791

https://pbase.com/iolair/image/171341790

 

[MicroAudio]

Yes, the cooling should be adequate since it was originally designed to cool my Raptor stepper motor drivers.

No cosmetic mods for this one, I'm going to build two more cases for the mono-blocks and I will use either a glass beading finish or maybe a highly polished aluminum look or a powder coat.

Yes, I did use thermal paste.

I will use this remote.....click it and about two or three seconds the amps fire up after the SMPS voltages stabilize. Next two will also use a latching type button with the MicroAudio SMPS.

https://pbase.com/iolair/image/171341791

https://pbase.com/iolair/image/171341790

Looking nice & clean setup.

But I still have doubts on that remote switch if it will survive the inrush current at each start up cycle on the long run.

Just to keep things safe!

 

[Billy Budapest]

Hi,

Finished my amp....yay, the last two connections added were /AMPON and /FATAL (Amp Enable and DC Error). I didn't add an on/off switch on the chassis, electing instead to use a wireless remote as I'm lazy. Waiting for speakers now.

John

https://pbase.com/iolair/image/171341630

Looks fantastic! How much are you charging? A question: what’s that hardware on the left side mounted to the case wall?

 

[NTSOS]

Looking nice & clean setup.

But I still have doubts on that remote switch if it will survive the inrush current at each start up cycle on the long run.

Just to keep things safe!

Hi Sami,

I can always just plug the power into the wall socket. The next one will have a push button with your SMPS.

Is it almost here yet, I haven't checked my mail box lately!

John

 

[MicroAudio]

Hi Sami,

I can always just plug the power into the wall socket. The next one will have a push button with your SMPS.

Is it almost here yet, I haven't checked my mail box lately!

John

Still need more time to release the SMPS1K-PFCR2, that long waiting will result in a SMPS supported with superb futures!

Will update you!

Thanks

 

[NTSOS]

Looks fantastic! How much are you charging? A question: what’s that hardware on the left side mounted to the case wall?

Hi Billy,

Thanks Bill, I had to look....oh, those are three threaded ceramic standoffs.

The remote is just a wireless wall switch. The next one may have circuit board...or not!

John

 

[Billy Budapest]

Hi Billy,

Thanks Bill, I had to look....oh, those are three threaded ceramic standoffs.

The remote is just a wireless wall switch. The next one may have circuit board...or not!

John

I see now. Standoffs being used to connect cables together with the screws covered in shrink.

I saw that about the wall switch—I tried to edit my post to get rid of that question!

 

[JimB]

... I will use this remote.....click it and about two or three seconds the amps fire up after the SMPS voltages stabilize. Next two will also use a latching type button with the MicroAudio SMPS.
https://pbase.com/iolair/image/171341791
https://pbase.com/iolair/image/171341790

Interesting. I use a 12V triggered strip to switch mine when I activate my source (which has a remote!).
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/diy-purifi-amp-builds.10478/page-34

 

[Billy Budapest]

Has anybody thought of using light pipes to connect the EVAL1 LED’s to the front panel? That way you could see the status of both channels without opening up the case.

That’s what Schiit does with some of their products, albeit over shorter distances. The LED’s are on the circuit board and they are piped over to the front panel.

 

[NTSOS]

Has anybody thought of using light pipes to connect the EVAL1 LED’s to the front panel? That way you could see the status of both channels without opening up the case.

That’s what Schiit does with some of their products, albeit over shorter distances. The LED’s are on the circuit board and they are piped over to the front panel.

That would be a good idea.

In my situation, the circuit boards in the case are inverted, so the LED's reflect off of the surface the amp is sitting on.

https://pbase.com/iolair/image/171342062

 

[mSpot]

Has anybody thought of using light pipes to connect the EVAL1 LED’s to the front panel? That way you could see the status of both channels without opening up the case.

The documentation shows a status connector J16 on page 7. Not sure how this is related to the LED's on the board.

 

[NTSOS]

The documentation shows a status connector J16 on page 7. Not sure how this is related to the LED's on the board.

The status connector is not mounted on my board, just four solder points.....says it's not mounted by default, but do not know if it related to the LED's or what R1 is, that says it's required.

 

[JimB]

The documentation shows a status connector J16 on page 7. Not sure how this is related to the LED's on the board.

It's for the I2C digital, serial communications bus to the amps.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I²C

 

[mSpot]

It's for the I2C digital, serial communications bus to the amps.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I²C

Pins 2 and 3 are input or output depending on whether the board is in SW or HW mode. The default is HW mode (described on page 11 of the user's guide) and the pins will carry amplifier fail and ready signals.

The FATAL signal is an OR of the on-board fail LEDs of the two channels. It doesn't mention J16 for the READY, but it would be logical that READY on J16 is an AND or OR of the two ready on-board LEDs.

In summary, I believe J16 can be used for overall status indicators; it just won't show left and right channel status separately.

 

[LarsS]

Pins 2 and 3 are input or output depending on whether the board is in SW or HW mode. The default is HW mode (described on page 11 of the user's guide) and the pins will carry amplifier fail and ready signals.
View attachment 106078
The FATAL signal is an OR of the on-board fail LEDs of the two channels. It doesn't mention J16 for the READY, but it would be logical that READY on J16 is an AND or OR of the two ready on-board LEDs.
View attachment 106084
In summary, I believe J16 can be used for overall status indicators; it just won't show left and right channel status separately.

Is it possible to enable SW mode & what would then be the implications?

 

[JaapDeventer]

My amp is coming around nicely. It makes music already and Eval1 is switching on and off nicely with mains on smps1200.

I have a question on smps standby:

I have added an 12V input and output in parallel (see picture). I plan to connect the 12V adapter of my streamer to the input. 12V output will go to said streamer.

The smps standby only needs a little power. So I think the streamer adapter is able to power both. This way I circumvent the use of an extra adapter.

The 12V plus I plan to connect to a switch on the face plate and then to J5.1 (smps standby). When the switch is connected position the smps1200 will switch off.

Technically it works fine. Smps turns off with 12V on J5.1 (smps standby) and turns on again 12V is disconnected. I have not tested with music on.

What to do with 12V GND wire? I have connect it to GND of the smps1200 but does it need to be connected to the amp at all? I'm a bit afraid of humming when connecting amp GND with 12V adapter GND.

 

[mSpot]

Is it possible to enable SW mode & what would then be the implications?

It is documented on page 11. SW mode allows control of the amplifier through the I2C bus.

 

[JimB]

Pins 2 and 3 are input or output depending on whether the board is in SW or HW mode. The default is HW mode (described on page 11 of the user's guide) and the pins will carry amplifier fail and ready signals.
...
In summary, I believe J16 can be used for overall status indicators; it just won't show left and right channel status separately.

AND, those two signals are also on pins 2 and 3 of J3. So..., maybe it's handy to use those on J6 for SMPS interface, and those for J16 for an alternate connection, such as the desired remote indication.the one one