Dayton Epique 7” Enclosure

[Ajcasey4201]

hello I am new to the group and mite as well say new to home audio as well. I have a Dayton 7” that I’m just going to be running as a subwoofer, was looking for recommendations on box size. Seems like everyone I’ve seen is using tube port, is there any specific reason why I haven’t really seen any slot port enclosure’s any advice would be greatly appreciated. Also if anyone comes across this post that knows what there doing and would be interested in making a few bucks to draw me up a blueprint shoot me a msg. Thanks

 

[DVDdoug]

Get some speaker design software (WinISD is free) and plug-in the Thiele-Small parameters for your 7-inch driver. The software will give you the recommended box volume and port dimensions and show a graph of predicted frequency response (in the bass range). You can also experiment with varying the design to see what happens to performance. You can also try a sealed box (of varying dimensions) before actually building it.

The port dimensions are more important than the port shape, and that includes the port depth. It's easier to cut a tube of a certain length than to build a rectangle "slot shaped" tube.

 

[Prana Ferox]

I have not modeled this specific driver in whatever box you're looking at but roughly generalizing (and I see DVDDoug's touched on part) :

- For most people, for smaller drivers, a tube port is simply easier, you holesaw a hole and shove a tube in it and you're done, in many cases you can adjust the length of the tube after install if you want to fine tune it. A slot port is more complex to assemble and generally is harder to adjust after the enclosure is physically complete. At least in common DIY this tends to shift as your driver and box increase in size and your slot port usefully doubles as a cabinet brace, where a tube port itself of sufficient size would instead start to need its own bracing; generally that's with drivers a lot bigger than 7" though.

- You want the port to act as a resonant cavity but you don't want to 'hear' the port air as higher velocity air interacts with stagnant air, at the port walls or at the port ends. Chuffing roughly is influenced by the ratio of port cross-sectional area vs perimeter area. I.e., with a port, you have the bulk channel in the center of the port volume where air can resonate freely, and then you have the region along the port walls, where air can drag. A circular cross-section maximizes this ratio and generally provides the best performance with respect to chuffing; a slot as the aspect ratio increases (i.e. as your cross-section gets further from a circle / square to a really stretched out rectangle) gets worse, and at the extreme you can effectively choke off your port and screw up your tuning because there is so much turbulence. You can mitigate this to some degree by making your slot port cross-section bigger, but then your port needs to be longer, and then it can take over your box, among other downsides.

You can mitigate chuffing to some degree by rounding off the ends of the port, which increases the area where your higher-velocity port air interfaces with unmoving air (inside the cabinet but generally at the exterior port mouth) and again (for most people and for smaller cabinets) it's easier to either buy a pre-made rounded port mouth or to round over a round port, than it is a slot port, especially again as aspect ratio increases.

 

[Duke]

hello I am new to the group and mite as well say new to home audio as well. I have a Dayton 7” that I’m just going to be running as a subwoofer, was looking for recommendations on box size. Seems like everyone I’ve seen is using tube port, is there any specific reason why I haven’t really seen any slot port enclosure’s any advice would be greatly appreciated. Also if anyone comes across this post that knows what there doing and would be interested in making a few bucks to draw me up a blueprint shoot me a msg. Thanks

That looks like a pretty sweet little subwoofer. I assume it's the E180HE-44.

@Prana Ferox's response about ports is imo very good. Another advantage of round ports is that modelling programs are more accurate for round ports than they are for slot ports, and of course slot ports are harder to adjust after they have been made. But they CAN be adjusted in one direction by inserting a board into them to reduce their cross-sectional area. This lowers the tuning frequency.

The amplifier that you plan to use should be taken into account. Does the amp have a protective highpass filter? You'd want to put the port tuning frequency a little bit above the highpass filter's frequency to maximize your combination of bass extension and excursion-limited power handling. The excursion-limited power handling plummets below the port tuning frequency because there is no longer significant back-pressure on the cone and it starts moving almost as if it wasn't even in a box.

Does the amp have EQ and/or a bass boost feature? If so, we can take that into account.

Do you have a particular low-end extension target in mind?

Any restrictions on box size and/or shape?

Where do you plan to place the sub? I assume it will be either on the floor up against a wall, or in a corner. Imo the target native frequency response curve for the sub would be different for those two locations.

 

[Ajcasey4201]

That looks like a pretty sweet little subwoofer. I assume it's the E180HE-44.

@Prana Ferox's response about ports is imo very good. Another advantage of round ports is that modelling programs are more accurate for round ports than they are for slot ports, and of course slot ports are harder to adjust after they have been made. But they CAN be adjusted in one direction by inserting a board into them to reduce their cross-sectional area. This lowers the tuning frequency.

The amplifier that you plan to use should be taken into account. Does the amp have a protective highpass filter? You'd want to put the port tuning frequency a little bit above the highpass filter's frequency to maximize your combination of bass extension and excursion-limited power handling. The excursion-limited power handling plummets below the port tuning frequency because there is no longer significant back-pressure on the cone and it starts moving almost as if it wasn't even in a box.

Does the amp have EQ and/or a bass boost feature? If so, we can take that into account.

Do you have a particular low-end extension target in mind?

Any restrictions on box size and/or shape?

Where do you plan to place the sub? I assume it will be either on the floor up against a wall, or in a corner. Imo the target native frequency response curve for the sub would be different for those two locations.

Yea it’s the E180HE, as far as the amp goes it is the new Fosi bt30D TPA3255 I left a link at the bottom but it will be in my bedroom size really isn’t a big deal I’ve got one spot I’d like to put it and in order for it to fit there and to look good box would have to be 17” in width and height doesn’t matter

Amazon.com

 

[Duke]

Yea it’s the E180HE, as far as the amp goes it is the new Fosi bt30D TPA3255 I left a link at the bottom but it will be in my bedroom size really isn’t a big deal I’ve got one spot I’d like to put it and in order for it to fit there and to look good box would have to be 17” in width and height doesn’t matter

Amazon.com

Thanks for the link. It looks to me like that amp does not have a protective highpass filter to roll off signals being sent to the subwoofer below the port tuning frequency.

Imo that's not a good amp for a vented box subwoofer.

With that amp, I suggest a sealed box for your Epique woofer. Assuming 3 dB of boundary reinforcement at 40 Hz, a 1 cubic foot sealed box will get you down to about 40 Hz in-room. 2 cubic feet will get you a little bit lower with a little bit slower rolloff, at the expense of losing some excursion-limited power handling and therefore theoretially losing some maximum SPL capability. If your main speakers are going to be the limiting factor for SPL anyway, you can make the box 2 cubic feet. Or anything in between. If you're looking to maximize low end extension, I would build the box so that the woofer is as close as possible to the nearest room corner.

 

[Deleted member 21219]

I was not aware of these Epique drivers. They look interesting:

Test Bench: The E180HE-44 Full-Range Subwoofer from the Dayton Audio Epique Line

In this article, Vance Dickason characterizes the E180HE-44 woofer, from the Dayton Audio Epique lineup. As with the E150HE from the same range, the E180HE-44 uses the patented Multiple Magnet Air Gap (MMAG) technology, invented by Enrique Stiles and patented by Step Technologies. The E180HE is...

audioxpress.com

Jim

 

[Ajcasey4201]

Thanks for the link. It looks to me like that amp does not have a protective highpass filter to roll off signals being sent to the subwoofer below the port tuning frequency.

Imo that's not a good amp for a vented box subwoofer.

With that amp, I suggest a sealed box for your Epique woofer. Assuming 3 dB of boundary reinforcement at 40 Hz, a 1 cubic foot sealed box will get you down to about 40 Hz in-room. 2 cubic feet will get you a little bit lower with a little bit slower rolloff, at the expense of losing some excursion-limited power handling and therefore theoretially losing some maximum SPL capability. If your main speakers are going to be the limiting factor for SPL anyway, you can make the box 2 cubic feet. Or anything in between. If you're looking to maximize low end extension, I would build the box so that the woofer is as close as possible to the nearest room corner.

Appreciate the advice man, I was wanting to get as close to 30hz as possible. I couldn’t use an inline high pass filter, that may be a dumb question but I’m new to this. I’ll prob just go with the sealed box any way be less hassle

 

[Duke]

I have an idea: You could make a vented box with a round port and plug the port so that it's in effect a sealed box. THEN when the day comes that you can buy a more suitable subwoofer amp, one with a protective highpass filter, you can unplug the port and get considerably deeper bass extension. Deeper than 30 Hz.

Let me know if this sounds feasible to you.

 

[flowolf]

Just put all the the driver specs in a software like Vituixcad, and this is what you get:

I assumed a 20l enclosure (roughly a cube with 30cm edge length) and modeled two versions, on ported and one closed:

ported:

and closed with DSP:

so you can achieve roughly the same with both, but closed you need much more power.

 

[Ajcasey4201]

Appreciate the advice man, I was wanting to get as close to 30hz as possible. I couldn’t use an inline high pass filter, that may be a dumb question but I’m new to this. I’ll prob just go with the sealed box any way be less hassle

You got any recommendations on a decent amp with that feature. Might just see about getting one now

 

[Ajcasey4201]

Just put all the the driver specs in a software like Vituixcad, and this is what you get:

I assumed a 20l enclosure (roughly a cube with 30cm edge length) and modeled two versions, on ported and one closed:

ported:View attachment 341364

and closed with DSP:
View attachment 341365

so you can achieve roughly the same with both, but closed you need much more power.

Sweet thanks man. Now the box volume says the rear is that in CM? I wont be buiding the box im just trying to figure out all the demensions so I got somthing to go off of

 

[Duke]

You got any recommendations on a decent amp with that feature. Might just see about getting one now

It looks like this amp has a 30 Hz protective high-pass filter, so you could use a fairly small vented box (ballpark 1 cubic foot) and get good solid 30 Hz extension:

CLEARANCE Yung SD300 300W Class D Subwoofer Plate Amplifier Module No Boost

Yung SD300 300W Class D Subwoofer Plate Amplifier Module No BoostYung International's SD Series Class D subwoofer power amplifiers are equipped with the unique ability to operate continuously at full rated output—a performance attribute not shared by most home audio amp designs. The benefits of...

www.parts-express.com

It looks like this amp has a LOT of adjustability, and with a larger vented box you could probably get into the lower 20's:

Dayton Audio SPA250DSP 250W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier with DSP

Dayton Audio SPA250DSP 250W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier with DSPDayton Audio SPA250DSP Subwoofer Plate AmplifierElite Control with DSPDayton Audio's SPA250DSP true 250 watt digital switching plate amplifier features advanced signal processing control that every audio enthusiast wants. With Class D...

www.parts-express.com

I have no first-hand experience with either amp, but they each have a lot of reviews.

 

[Killingbeans]

The port dimensions are more important than the port shape, and that includes the port depth.

True. But if you make it really thin and long, you risk getting chuffing for days.

 

[Ajcasey4201]

I have an idea: You could make a vented box with a round port and plug the port so that it's in effect a sealed box. THEN when the day comes that you can buy a more suitable subwoofer amp, one with a protective highpass filter, you can unplug the port and get considerably deeper bass extension. Deeper than 30 Hz.

Let me know if this sounds feasible to you.

Damn wish I hadn’t jumped the gun so fast. I’m just gonna go with sealed box for now I’ve already got more money involved then I originally planned. So I’n order for me to get closer to 32 how big should I go on the box? Appreciate your help man seriously

 

[Rahan]

Damn wish I hadn’t jumped the gun so fast. I’m just gonna go with sealed box for now I’ve already got more money involved then I originally planned. So I’n order for me to get closer to 32 how big should I go on the box? Appreciate your help man seriously

I'm interested into the parts express Dayton Audio Epique 7" Mini Subwoofer 300 Watts Kit . It's a sealed design . what is you feedback?

​

 

[kawikid]

I got mine to work well in 0.75 cf3 boxes with 16" long elbow ports. They will do low 30 hz.

I like them as is but I got to wondering how they sound in a passive radiator set up. Just because my larger primary subs are sealed.

For port material I went with 2.5" clear HVAC tube and flared the inside ends. Then used a half inch round over to flare the side they attach to the baffles. After some clear 2 part epoxy to fix them in place.

I used them for all out subs and 2-ways with 8" ribbon tweeters. They did OK with small Dayton point source full ranges up top but in the end I preferred the ribbons. Loaded in to 1/4" clear acrylic. That way there easy to add or take away without needing any permanent screw holes in my boxes.

I power with a Crown and an analog 2 way dbx handles the 2 way slopes.

 

[kawikid]

I diverted away from using the Daytons as stand mounts with HF. I just use them as sat speakers along side the minis, and towers when they are in use.

I built one of the Epique 7, "push push" energy cancellation sub woofer. One is complete and in getting some wood Maple veneer glued up and cosmetics applied. Dutch oil and poly and paint.

I was pushing the Daytons a little hard, far beyond abusive levels. They load up the room, and play quite deep. I put a glass of water on top of the sub, the water stays perfectly still. It is still water. Yet the drivers are emitting a lot of energy.

It must do wonders for cancelling cabinet colouration and distortion. It hits deep and clearly. There is no more roll off with todays extreme bass, it doesn't miss the lowest notes and you can differentiate instrument tonalities like a Cello easilly. I can hear the players thumb skuff off the string. Subtle bass nuances are great.


I have to crunch numbers and double check parameter numbers, I think I should be ok. If I had a feeling I could lose a few cubic inches I'd glue in some small dummy blocks. I do have to load light stuffing though. It sounds as good as it does with simple felt lined walls, with no stuffing at all. I think the fill will round out the occasional middy note that gets by and generally compliment it all around.

I couldn't get it to sound as good as it did before as a single ported sub speaker mid bass sub. Or it was the doubling up subs and sealing the box that just spoiled my ears. The bass that comes out of them is characteristic of a REL maybe, that deep rich refined tonal bass. Sub drivers are continually improving all around.

2 new drivers would play just as happy in the REL cube built for one.

The energy cancellation works magic I swear by them now. I don't know why I waited so long to try them. The next time I plan to build one again, just bigger. Twin CSS 10's perhaps.