I'm looking for a passive speaker under 4k (hopefully under 3k although unlikely) that is a significant upgrade to the M16's. Based on my readings even up to the Revel F206's isn't really worth the upgrade if you already have a pair of M16's.
I'm looking for a passive speaker under 4k (hopefully under 3k although unlikely) that is a significant upgrade to the M16's. Based on my readings even up to the Revel F206's isn't really worth the upgrade if you already have a pair of M16's.
I'm looking for a passive speaker under 4k (hopefully under 3k although unlikely) that is a significant upgrade to the M16's. Based on my readings even up to the Revel F206's isn't really worth the upgrade if you already have a pair of M16's.
I own a M16 set-up and an F226be set-up (as my main system). The f226bes are clearly better speakers directly compared, but I would say this: fine-tuned, the M16s come close--to the point that I could happily live with them as my main speakers. Fine-tuning them is key. I cannot stress DSP enough, especially for the M16s, which move away from the Harman curve with the bass boost at around 100Hz. They are speakers that need to be cleaned up down low. Bring down any out of control modes and fill in any drop outs with a decent sub. Correct above 400Hz minimally. (I recommend DIRAC.) You'll be 95% there with that. That is more than good enough.
As far as extra bass: in my family room, I get only about 15Hz more bass with the F226bes. If you have the M16s close to a wall, they produce a lot more bass than you'd think. (See attached graph.) However, I think the "quality" of the bass is different. The F226bes activate the room differently because of the difference in woofer location and number. In another thread someone mentioned that having two woofers, one on top of the other, accounts for the difference in room modes. Looking at my graphs I would have to agree. See 45-60Hz and 150-200Hz. This seems to be one of the real benefits of a full sized speaker over a book shelf. But again, this is where a sub would help make up the difference. Unless you have a pretty large room, a simple Rythmik L12 would do wonders.
Are these measurements from the listening position? After correction or before?I own a M16 set-up and an F226be set-up (as my main system). The f226bes are clearly better speakers directly compared, but I would say this: fine-tuned, the M16s come close--to the point that I could happily live with them as my main speakers. Fine-tuning them is key. I cannot stress DSP enough, especially for the M16s, which move away from the Harman curve with the bass boost at around 100Hz. They are speakers that need to be cleaned up down low. Bring down any out of control modes and fill in any drop outs with a decent sub. Correct above 400Hz minimally. (I recommend DIRAC.) You'll be 95% there with that. That is more than good enough.
As far as extra bass: in my family room, I get only about 15Hz more bass with the F226bes. If you have the M16s close to a wall, they produce a lot more bass than you'd think. (See attached graph.) However, I think the "quality" of the bass is different. The F226bes activate the room differently because of the difference in woofer location and number. In another thread someone mentioned that having two woofers, one on top of the other, accounts for the difference in room modes. Looking at my graphs I would have to agree. See 45-60Hz and 150-200Hz. This seems to be one of the real benefits of a full sized speaker over a book shelf. But again, this is where a sub would help make up the difference. Unless you have a pretty large room, a simple Rythmik L12 would do wonders.
Listening position, before correction.Are these measurements from the listening position? After correction or before?
Do you mind reposting the measurements with our standard 50dB range on the Y axis?Listening position, before correction.
Do you mind reposting the measurements with our standard 50dB range on the Y axis?
What is the best way to add full range room correction to a Yamaha Receiver (3070A)?At this point, I would concentrate on the room, leveraging treatment and DRC. Consider an upgrade after tackling that important aspect of sound reproduction.
What is the best way to add full range room correction to a Yamaha Receiver (3070A)?
Edit: Yamaha room correct (YPAO) is not very good. Therefore, I am wondering if I can somehow add dirac or something to my current system.
Thanks! It would be for a smart TV (LG) through HDMI and a Blu Ray Player, also through HDMI. (maybe also for a gaming system or so)What are you using for a source, digital or analog pathway, and do you want to add DRC to more than one source? MiniDSP makes a few products that could work in adding Dirac to your system.