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8361A’s - First Impressions

srrxr71

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So guess which song I saw the lights tonight.

“You are” by Lionel Richie. I mean come on.
 

ernestcarl

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How could you run out of juice? I've only once had my 8050b's red lights come on and I listen to metal.

Amplifier Power​


700 W Bass (Class D) + 150 W Midrange (Class D) + 150 W Treble (Class D)

Are you sure we are talking about the same speaker? Actually, my reply was in response to a statement about the KH120's bass performance.
 

NiagaraPete

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Are you sure we are talking about the same speaker? Actually, my reply was in response to a statement about the KH120's bass performance.
Sorry I thought we were discussing the 8361.
 

Pearljam5000

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The question is
If they're so SPL limited and probably can be used only as nearfields
Are they still worth the asking price?
 

ernestcarl

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The question is
If they're so SPL limited and probably can be used only as nearfields
Are they still worth the asking price?

I made no such statement (text in bold).

And the worth of everything is quite frankly 'relative'.

If you have never run your monitors so that the LED lights flash red, then there really is nothing to do.

For someone who does want more "juice", there are options. Namely, apply a high pass filter and use a subwoofer or get bigger main monitors.
 
OP
RobL

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Any guesses why this plate is in front of the wooofers? Resonance damper? Do the ‘51s have this as well?

06B7D884-5450-4F9F-A0A6-024F1A73A557.jpeg
 

Pearljam5000

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Wow never seen that before
This is an older photo and I don't think it has this plate
Yours could possibly be the first 8361B lol
genelec-8361a-bass1.jpg
 

NiagaraPete

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The question is
If they're so SPL limited and probably can be used only as nearfields
Are they still worth the asking price?
109db long term solution at 10’. That would work in my room. But I don’t listen that loud anymore.
 

Absolute

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So guess which song I saw the lights tonight.

“You are” by Lionel Richie. I mean come on.
Have you/GLM tried to lift a dip by any chance? If so, don't do that and see if it still happens.

Also, not sure if there's any gain-related compensation for the +3 dB shelving in your correction software. If not you could be clipping the inputs and not the speakers itself.
 

srrxr71

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Have you/GLM tried to lift a dip by any chance? If so, don't do that and see if it still happens.

Also, not sure if there's any gain-related compensation for the +3 dB shelving in your correction software. If not you could be clipping the inputs and not the speakers itself.
You know I think maybe I fat fingered something when I see that bump around 120Hz. I never add gain (except in sound character profiler) I always drop room modes and such. Something doesn’t look right.

Yes previously I played adding gain but only on subwoofers.

So there is no software in use before GLM. The input signal is flat. But I better also double check that. Maybe windows “enhancement” may have been selected. But I doubt it. Still worth checking.

I better recalibrate and set it straight. So last last night I think actually overheated. I needed to disconnect power for some 30+ seconds to get it to come back online. Twice.
 

Absolute

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You know I think maybe I fat fingered something when I see that bump around 120Hz. I never add gain (except in sound character profiler) I always drop room modes and such. Something doesn’t look right.

Yes previously I played adding gain but only on subwoofers.

So there is no software in use before GLM. The input signal is flat. But I better also double check that. Maybe windows “enhancement” may have been selected. But I doubt it. Still worth checking.

I better recalibrate and set it straight. So last last night I think actually overheated. I needed to disconnect power for some 30+ seconds to get it to come back online. Twice.
I don't know how GLM operates, but if it's anything like other correction softwares you need to pay attention to boost levels and compensate accordingly by lowering the input signal. If it does it automatically then the next suspect would be trying to compensate for sbir cancellation in the upper bass area. Not only does it sound bad, it's like pouring power into a black hole. Thought it could possibly explain your experiences.

Really enjoy your journey, thank you for sharing!
 

srrxr71

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That is only true for real stereo. With studio mixes "anything" is possible.
What exactly is real stereo and what sorts of mic arrangements would capture it?
 

tuga

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What exactly is real stereo and what sorts of mic arrangements would capture it?

One mic per channel, reasonably distant from the source(s), in a reverberant room.
 

Tangband

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You should be able to manually adjust the shelf filters to whatever you want more or less. Don't be afraid of doing that, GLM is designed for you to clearly see and modify the filters it applies if you like.
Good info from Sancus.
Some suggestions for RobL.
A good DDC with digital output and playing directly from a Mac with Apple lossless will give you a slightly better sound than an AirPort with airplay ( I have done comparisons ) .

You can also try to put all corrections done by GLM below 30 Hz to zero. This will give more impact to the sound and doesnt affect the perceived pitch in the bass region, theres not much musical tones below 30 Hz . An electric bass guitarr has its lowest tone at 41 Hz ( E ) .


Correct installation of the speakers are also mandatory ( the distance between the speakers, and the distance to the frontwall. )
 
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squarewave

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Yes indeed I use SCP to boost 0-200Hz +3dB.

Also to shelf down 1500Hz -2.5dB
"There is one important thing to be aware of: In GLM 4.1 we introduced positive gain for some models. But our subwoofers DO NOT support this feature."
 

srrxr71

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Some suggestions :
A good DDC with digital output and playing directly from a Mac with Apple lossless will give you a slightly better sound than an AirPort with airplay ( I have done comparisons ) .

You can also try to put all corrections done by GLM below 30 Hz to zero. This will give more impact to the sound and doesnt affect the perceived pitch in the bass region, theres not much musical tones below 30 Hz . An electric bass guitarr has its lowest tone at 41 Hz ( E ) .


Correct installation of the speakers are also mandatory ( the distance between the speakers, and the distance to the frontwall. )
So I have room modes at 20Hz and 35Hz. I feel (from just listening) that taking out the 20Hz mode by dropping it with high Q filter makes the bass sound more tight. Can those long term decay interfere with future audible bass notes?
 
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