Topping D10s USB DAC and Bridge Review

[guildenstern]

The new coming D10 variation will only support Balanced output.

Any news on when this new D10-balanced-version will be available in US?

 

[sterkoff]

So I received my new D10s and a few observations to follow-up:

First, it works perfectly as I wanted, which is as a USB to coax digital convertor for my existing Geshelli Labs ENOG2 Pro while providing PCM rate via the screen.

Second, I actually prefer that the screen dims as opposed to my Topping E30 which is brighter on even lowest setting.

Third, and most interesting to me from a personal and subjective perspective. With either my Cavalli LCX or SMSL SP200 Amp, I am now able to do an 'instant' switch between the XLR and RCA imputs on both amps. With this I was able to hook-up the D10s via RCA and the Geshelli ENOG2 via XLR to both amps and do immediate switching between both DACs. The XLR is a slightly louder coming in, so not trying to claim any sort of blind or controlled test, but at the end of the day the sound I personally hear between both is so stinkin' close (if not the same) that if it's not a tie, it may as well be. Any possible differences would be so tiny and subtle as to be personally irrelevant compared to any other part of the chain. I know this isn't news to most folks on this forum, but it was nice to finally hear this for myself. All my previous efforts comparing DACs involved a time delay to switch cables and PC output settings and so forth so (getting back on topic about the D10s) it was nice to have the opportunity to switch back and forth in real time by taking advantage of the coax digital output. YMMV.

 

[Veri]

[...] but at the end of the day the sound I personally hear between both is so stinkin' close (if not the same) that if it's not a tie, it may as well be. Any possible differences would be so tiny and subtle as to be personally irrelevant compared to any other part of the chain. I know this isn't news to most folks on this forum, but it was nice to finally hear this for myself.

And the truth will set you free...

 

[SteveJ]

Here's a bit of weirdness that maybe someone with a bit of electrical knowledge can explain:

I had my D10s sitting on the edge of a DVD recorder's metal casing, connected to my Atom headphone amp by a very short interconnect. The D10s could get tugged and move/tilt a bit when I plugged headphones in and out of the Atom. When that happened it sometimes crashed in a pretty concerning way. Any music would be replaced by crackling, my PC's monitor would flash off and on, and my media player would freeze. Pulling and plugging the USB cable back in would get it working until the next time it happened.

I thought it might be a faulty USB cable, but the same thing happened after switching to a different one. I could pick the D10s up in my hand while it was playing, shake it and wiggle the USB cable without any problems, only to have it freak out again when I put it back down.

The cause turned out to be the metal of the D10s enclosure touching the metal casing of the DVD drive. That was normally prevented by the rubber feet on the D10s, but sitting on the edge of the DVD it only took a little movement for it to make contact.

The DVD drive isn't turned on, but its power brick is plugged in. I have no clue about electrical stuff, but I suppose I'd guess that it's something to do with them using the case as a ground? It just strikes me as odd that simple contact between metal cases could have that effect?

 

[conuss]

Is the subject serving as an ADuM4160, a USB port isolator based on Analog Devices' i Coupler® technology?..

 

[conuss]

Or is it otherwise galvanically decoupled from the computer?

 

[SteveJ]

Is the subject serving as an ADuM4160, a USB port isolator based on Analog Devices' i Coupler® technology?..

Or is it otherwise galvanically decoupled from the computer?

I have no idea about this kind of thing to be honest.

Both the DVD drive and the DAC are plugged directly into USB ports on my PC. The D10s is powered by USB while the DVD drive has its own power supply plugged into the same power strip as the PC.

 

[michman66]

Could an android Samsung 8+ or iPad have enough output to power the 10s?

 

[jmz]

I'm new here. My knowledge of electronics is basic. I recently bought Topping D10s. My question is about replacing Op-amps. I'm not sure that I understand it correctly but in description of this DAC from shenzhenaudio is that it have OPA2134. But in my D10s is LME49720NA.

I found this:
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...ng-replacing-op-amps-in-topping-d10-dac.4576/

In conclusions I found info that OPA2134 is the best.

I will try to investigate with sellers this why I have LME49720NA in my both D10s. I bought them from 2 separate sources in last a few weeks.

But in the meantime I would like to "upgrade" my D10s to OPA2134. Could please someone tell me what exact full name should have this OPA2134.

Also what is the difference between them?

So far I discovered that it is price difference OPA2134 is more expensive and it is from Texas Instruments / Burr-Brown.

Thank you for any help.

 

[Veri]

I'm new here. My knowledge of electronics is basic. I recently bought Topping D10s. My question is about replacing Op-amps. I'm not sure that I understand it correctly but in description of this DAC from shenzhenaudio is that it have OPA2134. But in my D10s is LME49720NA.

I found this:
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...ng-replacing-op-amps-in-topping-d10-dac.4576/

In conclusions I found info that OPA2134 is the best.

I will try to investigate with sellers this why I have LME49720NA in my both D10s. I bought them from 2 separate sources in last a few weeks.

But in the meantime I would like to "upgrade" my D10s to OPA2134. Could please someone tell me what exact full name should have this OPA2134.

Also what is the difference between them?

So far I discovered that it is price difference OPA2134 is more expensive and it is from Texas Instruments / Burr-Brown.

Thank you for any help.

-the teardown link is original D10 not D10s
-the 47920 is also a burr brown/TI part as far as I know

 

[jmz]

-the teardown link is original D10 not D10s
-the 47920 is also a burr brown/TI part as far as I know

Thank you for answer. Yes, I know that this link is for D10. I used it as a starting point.

What is the difference between LME49720NA and OPA2134? Are they replacement or equivalent?

 

[Veri]

What is the difference between LME49720NA and OPA2134? Are they replacement or equivalent?

They are similar enough for use as a buffer in D10s that's for sure. So yes, suitable replacement.

 

[jmz]

They are similar enough for use as a buffer in D10s that's for sure. So yes, suitable replacement.

Thank you. I will do my home work and will try to find pdf spec for both of them and compare.

 

[zenon]

I'm new here. My knowledge of electronics is basic. .

Not good idea.
OPA2134 is mediocre quality today.
The best sound, from the experiments I have done so far, were ADA4898-2 and OPA1612.
OPA1656 is not suitable, or at least not in this buffer variant.
But, it's best for you to figure out how you like the sound the most.

 

[Veri]

Thank you. I will do my home work and will try to find pdf spec for both of them and compare.

Please don't buy many opamps to swap around, it's a waste of time btw; I disagree with zenon above
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...ffect-if-any-of-tube-rolling.6246/post-251011
you will be very hard pressed to hear a "definite" difference swapping a simple buffer stage chip.

OPA1656 is not suitable, or at least not in this buffer variant.

What makes you say this? It's one of Texas Instruments' best new chips really, works very well in many applications.

 

[jmz]

Not good idea.
OPA2134 is mediocre quality today.
The best sound, from the experiments I have done so far, were ADA4898-2 and OPA1612.
OPA1656 is not suitable, or at least not in this buffer variant.
But, it's best for you to figure out how you like the sound the most.

Thank you for info.

Actually I discovered that Topping is using LME49720NA in higher models DAC. I think that at this stage I will give up this "upgrade" to put OPA2134 to my D10s DAC.

First I will need to learn what range of op amps I can use with D10s. Than I will need to do research about their sound characteristics and parameters. I will try to avoid situation to buy too many of them ;-)

I remember that ages ago I changed op amps in my Marantz CD. I can't remember the results... was this change worth of benefits or not. From what I found today that op amps change is easier way to change the sound of device. This is why probably it is so popular way to "upgrade" audio devices.

Generally I will need a bit time to learn about my new discovery how to connect two worlds: computers and audio. Before I discovered DAC's I used built in computer soundcards and spdif outputs. But I must admit that even with entry level DAC D10s the results are more than good.

I'm very happy that I found this place. Hope that I will learn a lot.

 

[zenon]

Please don't buy many opamps ...

Look, I'm sorry to say this, but I have neither the strength nor the nerve to argue on the subject.
Buy OP and test.
I said what I meant to say.

 

[conuss]

So can anyone answer if an Isolation Digital Signal Audio Power Isolator is required for our pet?..

 

[somebodyelse]

There's no sign of isolation in the pcb photos, and it would be surprising to find it at this price level.

 

[conuss]

Therefore, you need a galvanic isolation like AudioQuest JitterBug or cheap analogs with Ali