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When DIY goes retail.

Jukka

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Well... assuming this is not the exact same unit, it appears those orange monster cables are there;

View attachment 321289 View attachment 321290

Here is an article too by Bob Carver about Sunfire amps in 1995;


I thought this part was interesting... ;

:facepalm:


JSmith
No, this is perfect. If I got paid for drinking wine and eating good food while screwing electronics on a whim, I'd go for it sure.

Joking aside, at least he says he is tweaking component values, which are measurable
 

amadeuswus

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Seems ironic that Sunfire amps once may have had a reputation for being reliable workhorses. I can't find the full review on the web now, but I believe Paul Seydor of The Absolute Sound may have made that point when writing about the Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II amp. He had heard of Sunfire amps in commercial applications (driving shaker couches or the like), running for years without a hitch. https://www.enjoythemusic.com/tas/139/ (table of contents only)

I picked up a Sunfire Cinema Seven for really cheap on Craigslist, but I would be afraid to open it up after seeing these pictures! (Might need the seven-hand facepalm.)
 
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musicforcities

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No, this is perfect. If I got paid for drinking wine and eating good food while screwing electronics on a whim, I'd go for it sure.

Joking aside, at least he says he is tweaking component values, which are measurable
while I think an amp ideally should have no voice of its own, I do get a kick out of bob carvers voicing thing as a meta ironic take down of audiophoolery. I don’t think he meant it that way but the original carver challenge is pretty much a middle finger: claiming he can make his relatively small and cheap sound identical to any huge and mega expensive amp in blind listening tests, by tweaking components and using op amps WAY before op amp rolling was a thing. I read it as calling out audiophiles as searching not for transparency but a specific type of distortion or eq, aka, voicing.

Bob loves tubes too much though and tended to voice his amps towards that bias (pun intended). The normal speaker out from the sunfire is pretty neutral for carver stuff but is soft (rolls off) on the upper frequencies. The second set of posts (the ones with the big 1 ohm resistor across the terminals) is specially intended to impart a tube like sound whatever that means by screwing up output impedance on purpose. The results vary by speaker. But the bass tends to be more bloomy/boomy due to decreased damping, the the top end diffused with harmonics and rolled off even more. lol. It’s like it’s broken on purpose. Which is wacko but in a way I sort of appreciate.

Similarly, the carver sunfire vacuum tube preamp has a gimmick “inverse riaa filter” in its (very nice for tube) phono section: an extra set of inputs is provided for you to hookup a non-turntable source (cd player, streamer, whatever), and that signal level is lowered in voltage, has the RIAA compression filter used cutting vinyl applied to it, and is then passed through the phono stage like a turntable would he, yes that means going through the normal riaa filter and passing through the moving magnet stage including its rumble/high pass filter (separate tube) which includes a two tubes for gain back up to typical line level until it is passed to the main line stage preamp that has three more tubes, two for gain/buffering channels and one just for the very nice tone controls (which are actually 6 selectable discrete cut and boost filter/curves for low and higher frequency—with a 7th neural position which bypasses the tone stage entirely. Actually it is very nicely done). The result? Your spotify stream or CD signal is distorted in a way that sorta kinda sounds like a vinyl record played through a tube turntable preamp that is connected to a line level tube preamp. lol. It is totally bonkers. A party trick to annoy the vinyl crowd. But totally optional…you can just use the normal inputs and just use the line stage preamp.
 
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musicforcities

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Seems ironic that Sunfire amps once may have had a reputation for being reliable workhorses. I can't find the full review on the web now, but I believe Paul Seydor of The Absolute Sound may have made that point when writing about the Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II amp. He had heard of Sunfire amps in commercial applications (driving shaker couches or the like), running for years without a hitch. https://www.enjoythemusic.com/tas/139/ (table of contents only)

I picked up a Sunfire Cinema Seven for really cheap on Craigslist, but I would be afraid to open it up after seeing these pictures! (Might need the seven-hand facepalm.)
They run very very cool due to efficient power management.. So the components are not stressed thermally at all. You can leave the thing on all the time and it uses less or around the same amount of electricity most acts do in standby mode.
In fact, the greatest wear on components is likely at inrush: on powering up house lights dim on a brand new 15amp circuit and there is no soft start on the thing. Those 18000 if caps rated for 150v and the huge transformer are thirsty at startup. After that current draw is very low typically.

The one I had is around 30 years old and was used heavily by my father especially; in its first 20 years. It was transported xross country in three moves, etc. and endured some wild voltage and current spikes in my previous abode. And I have not babied it. So while it looks slapped together inside it has been pretty robust. I think the soldering has dried out due to age and mechanical stress vibration, movement and thermal expansion/contraction ( 18,000uf 200v filter caps.) I suspect the three little caps that smoked because they were very cheap caps to begin with, like nad grade caps or worse. Sort of a cascade of death The main filter caps seem fine. And there are a lot of little el caps (like over 50) of the power supply due to its inherently complex design.

But yeah, 30 year old amps are likely to have issues. Even Bryston “only” offers a 20 year warranty. lol. And I think once past a certain age these sunfires build quality and layout are likely to go. It’s just shockingly cheaply built inside. The pcbs themselves look to be very good quality (unlike NAD cardboard and tin foil), but the components used (except for transistors) are pretty cheap and the huge vertical boards are not well supported mechanically and are soldered to each to each other with thick headers and held to the back panel and base by the transistors themselves and the rca input jacks for the most part with the top of the boards just sticking up with no support. So yeah, they are going to flex and solder is going to fail over time from age, micro movement/flex, and or gravity. And not the greatest soldering to begin with.

I understand the “ architects” series sunfire amps are better built (in part because they are smaller in order to fit in racks,,,the 2x300 or 2x600 seems larger than it needs to be to be honest )they use the same chassis size for 7 channel models).

The sunfire av processors on the other hand have always been unreliable and usually can’t be repaired.

The symphonic series amps are VERY rolled off on the high frequencies and kinda boomy on the lows. aka, very tube like.

None of the amps have good SNAID even for their time. The power supply introduces lots of noise and the wire layout cannot help. lol. High powered n core and purifi based tech has rendered the sunfire’s innovations on the power supply efficiencies more than obsolete to say the least while also providing similar power with far far far better SNAID in packages 1/3 to 1/5 the size. And your house lights won’t dim due to inrush.

Currently using the fossi v3 in the tertiary system the sunfire was in. More than enough power for what I need. Here is a fun photo size. comparison. Yeah of course the fossi can’t produce hundreds of watts into 8ohms, but it has far better SNAID at any level I can manage in my office with Jbl studio 530s.

The sunfire is best suited super low sensitivity power hungry low ohm beasts like acoustats, Magnapans, or apogee’s, for which the sunfires noise level is a non issue. And which won’t measure well from a neutrality point of view either no matter how much I might like them subjectively. But no, I would still not use the “special” speaker posts.
 

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musicforcities

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Check out the mains wiring. Maybe it’s not great to leave it on all time…yeah i hope the non detachable power cord has backwards color coding on its wires. If not that’s the neutral going through the fuse.

Would it really have been to expensive to make a proper pcb for power inlet and mains safety and noise filtering?

The green safety earth wire is soldered to the middle tab of the three solder tab thingy. That tab is then connected directly to the screw lug to the chassis. The thing is ul listed etc but that can’t really be allowed can it for a safety ground? Isnt the green safety wire supposed to be screwed directly to the chassis with nothing else attached to that point with a real crimped ring terminal and lock nut? Not soldered to a thin tab with the noise snub cap and resistor to live (I hope) along with a ceramic cap tied to neutral (I hope). Note the floating in air un insulated wire from fuse to the solder tab with the solid transformer wire. Can you do that? Seems like a bad idea if that dust holder twists at all. And isn’t the live wire supposed to go to the back terminal of the fuse holder to reduce risk of shock when changing a fuse if a dufus left the amp plugged and accidentally grazed the top terminal? What if that big ceramic cap fails closed and shorts live, neutral and safety earth? guess the breaker would trip but still seems sub optimal. The blue safety cap is used for a reason, that seems defeated by the normal brown cap.

Maybe it’s fine and I don’t know anything.

At least the anodization is removed at the chassis.

And the solid wires from the transformer primary are just enameled wire with some thin, fraying woven insulation slipped over them that is slipped under the transformer cover. Would not take much for the cover to degrade by age or the thin metal cover it rubs against and scrape the enamel and pow! Your chassis is live.

And remember, all the signal grounds and amp grounds and transistors with thin silicon insulating pad are screwed directly into the chassis.

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musicforcities

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Transistors and right channel board. Note the bright blue “PACOM” el caps all over the place. They exude cheapness.
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musicforcities

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Hey look, someone hand signed off on each pcb. Don’t worry about the lack of solder at the header…that was me trying to take it apart a few min ago. You have to decoder two of these things to be able to get to the back of the boards. Sub optimal.

I am increasingly feeling it’s not worth it.
 
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musicforcities

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When I removed two of the smoking caps, I discovered this blown apart resistor.
 
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musicforcities

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The location of the other smoking caps. Hey, the bias adjustment is still at factory setting.

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musicforcities

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Egads. The enamel on the inductor looks like it’s worn off for some reason.

And look how nicely wound it is (not). I’ve seen nicer coiling on a $3 parts express crossover coil.
 

restorer-john

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Could be the light, but that bottom zener doesn't look right either...

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musicforcities

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Thanks for noting that. That zener is kaput cracked. The top one ain’t great looking either. Looks like a cascade of issues in a super complicated circuit. Guess this thing is a goner. I’m handy enough for a basic recap and alignment but a man’s got to know his limitations.

Well there is one guy in Washington state who I would trust to fix this think correctly. He used to work at sunfire and carver. It’s a very unusual very complicated circuit with lots of critical values to match. And there are no schematics/service manual available for this model. Sunfire is very tight fisted about the carver era schematics. Might be a legal issue.

But I think I’d rather spend many hundreds in shipping and repair fee (at least $750 at the low end) towards a pair of IOM mono blocks with vu meters or an purify based stereo amp.

I hate to throw it out though. It’s lots of nicely anodized aluminum and a big honking transformer.
 
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musicforcities

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Some very dry and grainy looking factory soldering on these resistors. There is corrosion on one leg just peaking into the frame at right. Again, this has not been serviced before.

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levimax

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I hate to throw it out though. It’s lots of nicely anodized aluminum and a big honking transformer.
A couple times I had some decent quality audio stuff that to me was unrepairable for a reasonable price and someone suggested I put it on Ebay as "part only" and I was pleasantly surprised how much money people were willing to pay for what was junk to me. Keeps it out of the landfill as well.
 
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musicforcities

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A couple times I had some decent quality audio stuff that to me was unrepairable for a reasonable price and someone suggested I put it on Ebay as "part only" and I was pleasantly surprised how much money people were willing to pay for what was junk to me. Keeps it out of the landfill as well.
Yes I suppose. These things typically go for $750 to over 1k on eBay if working.
 
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