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VTV Purifi 1ET400A updates

BrokenEnglishGuy

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I have the Eval 1 amp powering Revel F208s in a smallish room.
You can crank up the volume at very loud level? i mean that tower apparently can support up to 350w, my r300s only support 125w and the woofer at certain volume can't do more, the R3 are 180w so i think these bookshelf can handle more volume than my r300s, because the woofer start to do weird thing in 120hz~~ at very loud volume, i have a huge EQ with them and -3dB pre amp, the r300s sound very nice with the purifi and i don't really need more volume, my neighboord don't wanna a hear speakers sounding at concert level xD
 

Rottmannash

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You can crank up the volume at very loud level? i mean that tower apparently can support up to 350w, my r300s only support 125w and the woofer at certain volume can't do more, the R3 are 180w so i think these bookshelf can handle more volume than my r300s, because the woofer start to do weird thing in 120hz~~ at very loud volume, i have a huge EQ with them and -3dB pre amp, the r300s sound very nice with the purifi and i don't really need more volume, my neighboord don't wanna a hear speakers sounding at concert level xD
Yes but the volume on the Freya will be near redline.
 

BrokenEnglishGuy

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Yes but the volume on the Freya will be near redline.
But the Purifi needs 2.4V for full power ( vtv said me that in email ) and freya push 4vrms, or not?

Or do you mean for make your speaker sound really loud, you need to push the freya in the redline? but aside of pushing near to redline, you can push very loud your speakers without any problem, right?
 

Matias

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nimar

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I don’t think it matters too much, but from a wire routing standpoint yours and Ghent’s layout is optimal.
I inquired and seems it’s the optimal design to have the heat sink in the middle, both VTV/Apollon do this, “keeps the chokes away from the buffer board”.

Although the AC wire supplied by Ghent isn’t long enough.
 
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Billy Budapest

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I inquired and seems it’s the optimal design to have the heat sink in the middle, both VTV/Apollon do this, “keeps the chokes away from the buffer board”.

Although the AC wire supplied by Ghent isn’t long enough.
My take is that it is better for wires not to make contact with the heat sink for durability and potential shorting issues.
 

nimar

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My take is that it is better for wires not to make contact with the heat sink for durability and potential shorting issues.
Totally. If you look at the Apollon build, they skirt the wires around the side. The cables that came from Ghent aren’t long enough for this so going to leave as is for now
 

AdamG

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Great video that gives you a sense of how vastly different types of music requires ample head room. On the order of perhaps x10 to x15. I was listening to the song on my iPad and watching the power meter hit 800watts and it did not correlate. So I played that same track on my main system and made dishes fall in the kitchen cabinet in another room. Obviously I was missing all the low ULF in that track. It really shows how much juice this type of music demands. Illuminating video. Surprised the speaker builders as well.

Thanks for sharing that with us.
 

Billy Budapest

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Anyone hear from VTV yet whether their IEC inlet/EMI/RFI filter contains y-capacitors? Could you ask them to leave it out of the build and instead just use a plain quality IEC inlet from Schurter, etc.?
 

Rottmannash

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Anyone hear from VTV yet whether their IEC inlet/EMI/RFI filter contains y-capacitors? Could you ask them to leave it out of the build and instead just use a plain quality IEC inlet from Schurter, etc.?
Has anyone asked him?
 

Rottmannash

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mSpot

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Anyone hear from VTV yet whether their IEC inlet/EMI/RFI filter contains y-capacitors? Could you ask them to leave it out of the build and instead just use a plain quality IEC inlet from Schurter, etc.?
Just email and ask. Warren is accommodating about requests and easy to work with. I'm sure he would do it if he had the part on hand. Also, it seems trivial to swap out if you do it yourself (look at photos).
 

Billy Budapest

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Just email and ask. Warren is accommodating about requests and easy to work with. I'm sure he would do it if he had the part on hand. Also, it seems trivial to swap out if you do it yourself (look at photos).
It would be a trivial swap, actually. You’d have to make sure you got the wiring correct and make sure the ground wire is securely attached to the chassis. Might want to test continuity after the swap if you are paranoid.
 

Rottmannash

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nimar

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Screenshot 2021-03-01 at 3.14.19 PM.png


if there are any numbers on this, doesn't look like it from the stock photo.

I think Ghent originally used the same but then switched to this
13.jpg
 
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Billy Budapest

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The numbers would be on the label on the side. You can barely see it in your photo above.
 
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