2 ohm is too low for a home amp they could have used the 8 ohm version of the drivers in parallel.
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Using only 1 driver of a 2 x 10" push/pull (enclosed) subwoofer, technical explanation?
- Thread starter Geertidow
- Start date
JRS
Major Contributor
Perhaps a better use of the $$ is to buy a really good subwoofer driver (Dayton, SB Acoustics) and add mass to the "PR" to tune it appropriately. That's a very good cabinet size for a low tuning and good efficiency. A strong 10 could do some damage. Scan Speak overpriced for a sub. Aldo if both woofers are moving East or West at the same time vs both moving out same time, it is an isobaric alignment as two woofers share same volume, in this case if both moving east, push pull arrangement.
ZolaIII
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Ufff driver I recommend (Acoustic Elegance IB10AU-8) beets two of those Scan-Speak 26W/4534G00 4 Ohms one's (in pretty much everything), won't butcher either amplifier or itself and isn't all that expensive (far from cheap either). It even comes close to most solid 12" one's. But don't listen to me.
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JRS
Major Contributor
I have two of the AE 15h in 3cu ft cabs. Tuned to about 35 Hz with an f3 of 30Hz. I have never come close to plumbing the limits--for one I'd need 2kw per side, and preferably a brick house. These drivers are robust, more so than anything I've seen. Built like the proverbial brick shithouse. Have no doubt a single 12 could shake things up in a fairly large listening area. I played some dueling drum solo demos for kicks. Now that is bass! People talk about twin 7s having slam and I just have to laugh.
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So, this is the difference between the dual 10" closed vs the single woofer and one passive:
As already suspected, the single woofer version has a massive boost at 40 Hz, which probably contributes to the perception that it sounds better. All in all, this may just be a function of level difference... hard to know.
This setup has some distinct issues, most notably power handling:
Below 50 Hz, the passive radiator versions' power handling drops like a stone, mainly due to the low excursion of the passive woofer. Obviously, there is also hardly any output below 30 Hz, to begin with.
Actually, the dual 10" version doesn't too bad, still capable of almost 100 dB at 20 Hz. The box size is basically perfect. I think a bit of tinkering with the Dirac settings is in order to make this thing sound good. Try some of these target curves:
As already suspected, the single woofer version has a massive boost at 40 Hz, which probably contributes to the perception that it sounds better. All in all, this may just be a function of level difference... hard to know.
This setup has some distinct issues, most notably power handling:
Below 50 Hz, the passive radiator versions' power handling drops like a stone, mainly due to the low excursion of the passive woofer. Obviously, there is also hardly any output below 30 Hz, to begin with.
Actually, the dual 10" version doesn't too bad, still capable of almost 100 dB at 20 Hz. The box size is basically perfect. I think a bit of tinkering with the Dirac settings is in order to make this thing sound good. Try some of these target curves:
- Thread Starter
- #46
See attachment. The lower driver is disconnected (was connected in opposite phase).
The upper driver is 10" (type 26W/4534G00, 4 Ohm). They were in series on 2 Ohm.
It's now a singel woofer sub with the lower woofer as a port (as described much better by others).
I was looking to just understand what I did. But if I were to improve this sub (mostly being able to do 20-200 hz with and xo on 80 Hz at 12 db/oct (or 24 if need be).
What would you advise?
Assuming internal volume of 100-110L (approximately).
Options:
1 woofer, 1 passive radiator
2 woofers
1 woofer, seal the lower port
Please not that I'm already satisfied with the sound, I was just looking to understand what I did.
But if there are any great insights I'm happy to think about it.
The upper driver is 10" (type 26W/4534G00, 4 Ohm). They were in series on 2 Ohm.
It's now a singel woofer sub with the lower woofer as a port (as described much better by others).
I was looking to just understand what I did. But if I were to improve this sub (mostly being able to do 20-200 hz with and xo on 80 Hz at 12 db/oct (or 24 if need be).
What would you advise?
Assuming internal volume of 100-110L (approximately).
Options:
1 woofer, 1 passive radiator
2 woofers
1 woofer, seal the lower port
Please not that I'm already satisfied with the sound, I was just looking to understand what I did.
But if there are any great insights I'm happy to think about it.
Attachments
More efficient would be to use a bass reflex port instead of passive radiator as it is now. If you want better transients and power handling put the lower driver normally not reversed and use them both as a closed box but i would connect them in 8 ohm to protect the amp.
It now a speaker with a passive membrane. If there is no port that i cant see. Its not realy interesting in which way that passive is build in.
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You'll need more volume though. With only 110l, it's not going to be significantly more efficient. You need 150l at least
Why does the direction of the woofer matter? It works the same no matter how it's mounted. 8 Ohm or 2 Ohm.. Who knows. The Hypex amps should be comfortable enough with 2 Ohm and give the most power. Then again, the woofers are only 90W, so it might be worth a try.
The backwards motion usually has more noise as the air passes through the frame. I remember reading that the backwards motion is slightly diffferent but i have to dig into that again.I meant one driver bass reflex but i have to run the sim for 2 drivers bass reflex at 110l box. There can be interesting configurations.
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That would be interesting for higher frequence not for a sub. That huge wavelenghts care a shiit about that little metal.
You did what i told already. You have now a lower resonance frequence. For that you lost efficience.
It is, but not for bass frequencies. It could also have a bit more noise due to the suspension. This depends heavily on the woofer. Downfiring in a corner... I doubt it will matter.
It depends on the driver if it will be producing audible noise or not but why not use it as designed.That would be interesting for higher frequence not for a sub. That huge wavelenghts care a shiit about that little metal.
If it produce audible noise its broken. I just answered technical questions not if this makes sense to me.
It really isn’t in many cases. The suspension and voice coil venting may produced some audible noises from the backside with larger excursions. This is normal and inaudible when normally mounted. Some woofers just have more noise than others.
Yes you are right, to be honest, that hole thread i should have read more carefull. It makes not so much sense to me.
The lowest frequency response would come from bass reflex or a heavier passive radiator.
ZolaIII
Major Contributor
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@Geertidow how you even place that? If you keep it firing direct to you and not to the floor and even disreging of it just put the other driver normally (like first one inside - out) and use them both (as a normal closed compression sub).
- Thread Starter
- #60
It's actually rear firing with the longest side upwards. Basically as in the picture.
