USB vs Digital/Optical

[twsecrest]

I have a SoundBlaster Z card and an Asus H170 Pro Gaming MB. Is there any difference between cards for the SPIDIF out? I mean do they "color" the sound (intentionally that is) or are they attempting to send a pure and accurate signal? Is USB interface preferred or will that introduce noise?
Also if just feeding an amp from PC which is better; straight single ended or se to rca?

The S/PDIF optical output ports on the SB-Z (Sound Blaster Z) and H170 (Asus H170 Pro Gaming) should be about equal.
To send a clear signal, that is not colored by the Windows audio, use a software program that comes with WASAPI or AISO.
What headphone amplifier do you have or are planning on buying?
Using USB, over internal audio hardware, helps remove noise from the audio signal.
It might help to know the end game of what your trying to do?

 

[twsecrest]

Yes, the single ended output on the sound card into an amp. Better straight se or se to rca

Technically RCA is a little better then using a 3.5mm jack, but not really a big deal.

 

[twsecrest]

My understanding id that balanced really gives you 4 times the power over single ended and resolves ground loops if there is a problem.

Balanced connection is technically preferred, but not really a big deal when it comes to headphones.

 

[twsecrest]

My understanding id that balanced really gives you 4 times the power over single ended and resolves ground loops if there is a problem.

Putting your electronic devices plugged into separate surge protectors helps solve ground loop issues.

 

[TechEnthusiast]

The S/PDIF optical output ports on the SB-Z (Sound Blaster Z) and H170 (Asus H170 Pro Gaming) should be about equal.
To send a clear signal, that is not colored by the Windows audio, use a software program that comes with WASAPI or AISO.
What headphone amplifier do you have or are planning on buying?
Using USB, over internal audio hardware, helps remove noise from the audio signal.
It might help to know the end game of what your trying to do?

Just getting back into the headphone game. Bought a set of Sundars's and really enjoy them. Just trying to build a decent amp/dac combo for it and future phones. My idea is to build around a solid amp first and grow from there. That's why all the questions with regards to se to be used in connecting amp to pc.

 

[twsecrest]

Just getting back into the headphone game. Bought a set of Sundars's and really enjoy them. Just trying to build a decent amp/dac combo for it and future phones. My idea is to build around a solid amp first and grow from there. That's why all the questions with regards to se to be used in connecting amp to pc.

The SB-Z would offer better audio quality, then the ALC1150 audio processor (built in DAC function) that the motherboard's onboard audio offers.
But as the SB-Z headphone jack has an output impedance of 22-Ohms, it might give the 37-Ohm Sundara a bloated bass.
In general, a USB DAC/amp is the best option.
A $100 Schiit Fulla 3 ($100) USB DAC/amp would be better then the SB-Z.
How much would you budget for a external USB DAC/amp?

 

[TechEnthusiast]

I have been considering

The SB-Z would offer better audio quality, then the ALC1150 audio processor (built in DAC function) that the motherboard's onboard audio offers.
But as the SB-Z headphone jack has an output impedance of 22-Ohms, it might give the 37-Ohm Sundara a bloated bass.
In general, a USB DAC/amp is the best option.
A $100 Schiit Fulla 3 ($100) USB DAC/amp would be better then the SB-Z.
How much would you budget for a external USB DAC/amp?

I have been considering a SMSL sp200 + m200 ($500). Just really need the amp right now so that would be $265 for that unit. Small yet capable, not sure about going bigger ,otherwise would probably grab a THX 789 for $300.

 

[twsecrest]

I have been considering

I have been considering a SMSL sp200 + m200 ($500). Just really need the amp right now so that would be $265 for that unit. Small yet capable, not sure about going bigger ,otherwise would probably grab a THX 789 for $300.

Suggest you disable the motherboard's onboard audio, in the BIOS (but not a big deal).
Install the SB-Z card.
Connect the SB-Z's Front Speaker jack (3.5mm) to the line-input of whatever headphone amplifier you get (THX789).
Set the SB-Z's audio control panel to 2.0 speaker out.
This should give you the best audio quality, for the given hardware.

 

[TechEnthusiast]

Suggest you disable the motherboard's onboard audio, in the BIOS (but not a big deal).
Install the SB-Z card.
Connect the SB-Z's Front Speaker jack (3.5mm) to the line-input of whatever headphone amplifier you get (THX789).
Set the SB-Z's audio control panel to 2.0 speaker out.
This should give you the best audio quality, for the given hardware.

No doubt. That is the best for now. Which amp though? I like the 789 but I think that is too big.

 

[twsecrest]

No doubt. That is the best for now. Which amp though? I like the 789 but I think that is too big.

A JDS Atom or Schiit Magni 3 (both $100) will have no problem driving the 37-Ohm Sudara.

 

[TechEnthusiast]

Oh, I know that. Those 2 as well as a Toppimg L30 and the more powerful Zen Can but I was looking for something that will drive anything....just in case down the road. Dacs will come and go as tech changes but amps can last a lifetime. I still use my Adcom amp from 1988

 

[twsecrest]

Oh, I know that. Those 2 as well as a Topping L30 and the more powerful Zen Can but I was looking for something that will drive anything....just in case down the road. Dacs will come and go as tech changes but amps can last a lifetime. I still use my Adcom amp from 1988

Just get the Atom or Magni for now, it should serve you for months and months.

 

[TechEnthusiast]

Perhaps I will. But for now I will experiment with what I have purchased and loaned to me to see what direction that takes me.

 

[Mike B]

I have an old (2006) Windows desktop. I have Klipsch powered speakers with analog, optical and Bluetooth in. I have an aftermarket
ASUS XONAR SE PCle 5.1 Sound Card that cost about $40. Not everyone loves Klipsch speakers, not everyone loves $40 soundcards. But I compared music as follows:
1) Original onboard soundcard with 3.5mm cable to the speakers
2) ASUS soundcard with 3.5mm cable to the speakers
3) ASUS soundcard with optical digital to the speakers
4) USB direct from the computer to the speakers

I took no measurements, I just listened to music. Option 1 was clearly substandard compared to the other options. Options 3 and 4 were indistinguishable to me. Option 2 might have been worse than options 3 and 4 or it might just have been different. It was not worlds apart.

This tells me that my 2006 computer had a really cheap onboard soundcard. It tells me that the ASUS soundcard does a good job sending digital out the optical path.

 

[TechEnthusiast]

I have an old (2006) Windows desktop. I have Klipsch powered speakers with analog, optical and Bluetooth in. I have an aftermarket
ASUS XONAR SE PCle 5.1 Sound Card that cost about $40. Not everyone loves Klipsch speakers, not everyone loves $40 soundcards. But I compared music as follows:
1) Original onboard soundcard with 3.5mm cable to the speakers
2) ASUS soundcard with 3.5mm cable to the speakers
3) ASUS soundcard with optical digital to the speakers
4) USB direct from the computer to the speakers

I took no measurements, I just listened to music. Option 1 was clearly substandard compared to the other options. Options 3 and 4 were indistinguishable to me. Option 2 might have been worse than options 3 and 4 or it might just have been different. It was not worlds apart.

This tells me that my 2006 computer had a really cheap onboard soundcard. It tells me that the ASUS soundcard does a good job sending digital out the optical path.

I get similar results with my gear, however, there is more of a presence and fullness with optical and usb was more analytical or I would say veiled and slightly harsh.

 

[Mike B]

I get similar results with my gear, however, there is more of a presence and fullness with optical and usb was more analytical or I would say veiled and slightly harsh.

I need to try them both again (optical and USB) and see if I can detect a difference.

 

[Doodski]

I need to try them both again (optical and USB) and see if I can detect a difference.

You need to do a double blind test to ensure you don't corrupt the test with your preferences and stuff.

 

[TechEnthusiast]

You need to do a double blind test to ensure you don't corrupt the test with your preferences and stuff.

Not really. It is fairly evident. Kind of like hitting a loudness switch. It may be the pc or it may be the asus card. But there is a definitive change. Now the Soundblaster Z card does not offer the same difference with optical.

 

[Doodski]

Not really. It is fairly evident. Kind of like hitting a loudness switch. It may be the pc or it may be the asus card. But there is a definitive change. Now the Soundblaster Z card does not offer the same difference with optical.

Your conditions of test included:
1) Original onboard soundcard with 3.5mm cable to the speakers
2) ASUS soundcard with 3.5mm cable to the speakers
3) ASUS soundcard with optical digital to the speakers

If 1 and 2 are compared then one of them will have more output and sound slightly louder. That louder one will almost always be the winner.
When 3 is compared to 1 and 2 there will again be a level mismatch and one will be louder.
To solve this you need to level match with a sine wave, volts meter or decibels meter or oscilloscope and then make them all equal and do it blind.

 

[TechEnthusiast]

My Asus is the MB. It is the h170 pro gaming.
The sound card is the Soundblaster Z