Edit: MA-XG tapes are going for $135 each on eBay today. Also if I recall correctly they only came in 60 minute length. The cases were made of multiple parts to reduce vibrations.
TDK MA-XG came in 46, 60 and 90 minute lengths.
Edit: MA-XG tapes are going for $135 each on eBay today. Also if I recall correctly they only came in 60 minute length. The cases were made of multiple parts to reduce vibrations.
Wow. Yes I saw the second wrapper only. I never saw 90 minutes personally. Good to see this.TDK MA-XG came in 46, 60 and 90 minute lengths.
Many, albeit mostly portable or "boom box" players. But Tascam, Teac, etc. make a few "real" decks.Does anyone make brand new tape machines?
There are a bunch of Chinese companies making clones of relatively cheap mechanisms manufactured until about 2010 by a Japanese company called Tanashin which was the last mechanism company left standing. Even the Teac decks still available today use these Chinese mechanisms.Does anyone make brand new tape machines?
Wow that’s sad. But par the course I guess.There are a bunch of Chinese companies making clones of relatively cheap mechanisms manufactured until about 2010 by a Japanese company called Tanashin which was the last mechanism company left standing. Even the Teac decks still available today use these Chinese mechanisms.
There are no high quality mechanisms in manufacture today and the knowledge and upstream parts suppliers required to make them have been lost.
I'd say "Quasi real", at best -- given that most of the tricks that made the cassette medium (at 1-7/8 ips, i.e., 4.76 cm/sec) acceptable for anything close to hifi music reproduction (i.e., Dolby NR and/or HX Pro, or dBx) is OOP and/or otherwise NLA today. There may (???) be some generic DNR (dynamic noise reduction) in some of the current decks, but I'm not even sure of that.Many, albeit mostly portable or "boom box" players. But Tascam, Teac, etc. make a few "real" decks.
Noise reduction function to reduce hiss during playback (equivalent to Dolby B NR)
The patents on all the analogue Dolby NR systems must have expired by now so the mechanism itself wouldn't need to be licensed. Using the Dolby name or double D logo would still need it.Basically unlicensed Dolby B playback. HX pro is a nice recording technique. Basically adjusting bias during recording. No playback “decoding” needed.
On my project, an accurate decoder for DolbyA (amongst other evil denzens of audio processing), we made an equiry with Dolby, and was told that there is no further interest, but must be careful with the Dolby name or officially calling the decoder a 'DolbyA decoder'. I sometimes slip-up, but it is in a technically oriented non commercial environment, so they are unlikely to do any more than to tell me to be more careful. BTW, decoding DolbyA material, even when using diverse true DolbyA units (mix and match) is not for the faint of heart.The patents on all the analogue Dolby NR systems must have expired by now so the mechanism itself wouldn't need to be licensed. Using the Dolby name or double D logo would still need it.
I guess whoever made it couldn't replicate the HX Pro or recording side Dolby B/C/S
There are actually quite a few refurbished Dolby S decks on eBay for not silly money the only things that go for utterly stupid money are Nakamichi Dragon.
I heard things about Dolby A but no experience with it. Truly not for consumers. I suppose Dolby S was the compromise.On my project, an accurate decoder for DolbyA (amongst other evil denzens of audio processing), we made an equiry with Dolby, and was told that there is no further interest, but must be careful with the Dolby name or officially calling the decoder a 'DolbyA decoder'. I sometimes slip-up, but it is in a technically oriented non commercial environment, so they are unlikely to do any more than to tell me to be more careful. BTW, decoding DolbyA material, even when using diverse true DolbyA units (mix and match) is not for the faint of heart.
DolbyA is NOT like DolbyB, and DolbyA will bite you hard if the calibration isn't correct to at least the 0.01dB level, and I get best results at the 0.001dB level. DolbyB/C are a lot more friendly to deal with. (Much of the problem with DolbyA is the MF (80Hz to 3kHz band.))
John
DolbyS is the simplified DolbySR. I implemented DolbyA at the limits of doing so without violating patents. DolbySR is evil, and I have studied it carefully -- have the schematics and am a high power analog EE. It is mindnumbingly complex when trying to avoid the patents (easily available.) I took advantage of some tricks for "simple" devices like DolbyA to avoid a lot of things, including feedback in gain control loops. Can you imagine the control systems state information to emulate analog audio feedback? Well, I cheated, so have simpler, but accurate design .I heard things about Dolby A but no experience with it. Truly not for consumers. I suppose Dolby S was the compromise.
Oh no need for apologies. I love learning about this kind of stuff. To me it’s all this stuff I lusted after but could never afford. Now I could if I wanted but it’s more trouble than it’s worth now.DolbyS is the simplified DolbySR. I implemented DolbyA at the limits of doing so without violating patents. DolbySR is evil, and I have studied it carefully -- have the schematics and am a high power analog EE. It is mindnumbingly complex when trying to avoid the patents (easily available.) I took advantage of some tricks for "simple" devices like DolbyA to avoid a lot of things, including feedback in gain control loops. Can you imagine the control systems state information to emulate analog audio feedback? Well, I cheated, so have simpler, but accurate design .
DolbyS is somewhat simplified, and probably good stuff as long as levels are carefully managed. DolbyA can partiallly decode DolbySR. The big problem of the pro stuff is the sensitivity of hearing in the midrange, and so the consumer versions of stuff tend to avoid messing as much in the midrange area.
Sorry for the erratic thought in this message -- ADD on ADD on ADD with 'brain resets' that sometimes erupt!!!
I know DolbyA decoding, I have developed software that can decode DolbyA pretty well, and it is DEFINITELY BEST TO AVOID!!! I hope no-one ever uses DolbyA to write a tape again. It can be a headache for anyone trying to read it. Note that I didn't write a DolbyA encoder -- actually a little easier?Oh no need for apologies. I love learning about this kind of stuff. To me it’s all this stuff I lusted after but could never afford. Now I could if I wanted but it’s more trouble than it’s worth now.