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The Case Against OLED

Chrise36

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Most OLEDs show black crush and have motion issues without BFI engaged. There is also very high probability of burn in a 5 year period unfortunately:
 
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Aerith Gainsborough

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I have a huge window right next to the television, no reflections since the window is on the side, but lots of light. I also watch films during the day if it happens, without having to darken everything, if I wanted to stay in the dark every time I have to watch TV I would have chosen a projector
Think of it like "background listening" vs "critical listening". You don't do it all the time but when you really want to enjoy the cinematography, especially in low light scenes, the ambient light simply has to go.

Low light scenes and darkened rooms are also where backlight related LED deficiencies are most obvious, even from a center seat, where viewing angle might not be an issue.
 

DLS79

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That's plain wrong. My Samsung has black crush. It's high mid tier level TV from 2021.

The old plasma from 2006 honestly beats it in every regard apart from resolution. And that doesn't even matter much as well as we sit 3 m. from the TV.

without knowing the specific model, I'd be willing to bet that the black crush is either an incorrect setting, or crappy source material. One of the reasons OLEDs are favored in editing is because in general they are better at rendering darker blacks.
 

Chrise36

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without knowing the specific model, I'd be willing to bet that the black crush is either an incorrect setting, or crappy source material. One of the reasons OLEDs are favored in editing is because in general they are better at rendering darker blacks.
Are you talking about 30000$ monitors?
 

Tim Link

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Think of it like "background listening" vs "critical listening". You don't do it all the time but when you really want to enjoy the cinematography, especially in low light scenes, the ambient light simply has to go.

Low light scenes and darkened rooms are also where backlight related LED deficiencies are most obvious, even from a center seat, where viewing angle might not be an issue.
What settings are you using on your OLED in a dark room? I've been reading a lot of reports of people in pitch black rooms still complaining their OLEDs look too dark in filmmaker mode. Some are saying the movies are supposed to look really dark like that. Others are saying you have to apply some other settings from default to get the brightness up. I think doing so results in dynamic tone mapping, which is why the default is as low as it is, and why two brand new TVs from Samsung look very different in default filmmaker mode. The mini LED can get brighter without resorting to so much dynamic processing, so its default setting is higher.
 

Timcognito

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1701731673036.png
 

Aerith Gainsborough

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What settings are you using on your OLED in a dark room?
I do not own an OLED. My LED blasts me like a flashbang in a dark room but I pay for that with backlight bleeding around bright objects.
No matter how you slice it: current display technologies are all compromises. Pick your poison accordingly.
 

Tim Link

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I do not own an OLED. My LED blasts me like a flashbang in a dark room but I pay for that with backlight bleeding around bright objects.
No matter how you slice it: current display technologies are all compromises. Pick your poison accordingly.
Thanks. I didn't understand that you don't actually own an OLED. I have an LED and I turn down the local dimming as low as it will go because I actually don't like perfect blacks. Way back when HDR displays were something that only existied in laboratories, I did some experiments of my own by making color prints on transparency film and stacking them. This dramatically increased the contrast. 3 prints stacked was very striking on a lightboard in a darkened room. But, it looked kind of crushy, very similar to what OLEDs and mini LEDs look like today. I needed to soften the pictures to get them to look more natural, but then what's the point of all that extra contrast capacity? The answer turned out to be getting much, much more light behind the high contrast picturess. When I was able to get diffused sunlight behind these transparancies, they quit looking overly contrasty and became very natural and lifelike looking. The dark areas became filled with detail even though the bright areas had gone up just as much. It became very dynamic and less contrasty looking. A field of flowers in sunlight looked practically perfect, it was literally taking my breath away it was so right looking. So, I hold that with my TV's limited peak brightness of 1500 nits it can't support super high contrast and actually look good. Dynamic looking and contrasty looking are very different perceptions. Perfect blacks capability is not necessarily a problem, but typically not all that helpful in my opinion. There needs to be a natural noise floor of some kind, and tone mapping of some kind of "S" curve into the picture to get a natural look at lower lighting levels. This has been know forever in photography, where prints are typically limted to about 300:1 contrast ratio. To look good, photography exposes with an exposure shoulder that's natural to the media with film, and has to be properly applied with digital. If an OLED or mini LED can do near perfect blacks, that's not necessarily a problem. But content creators with good taste should rarely ever let any part of the scene get too dark when they know the display can't get very bright, so the black capability is not all that useful unless you want to intenionall use it as an artisitc effect. I think they do use, and I often don't like the look they're going for. The stuff that does look good to me doesn't rely on the perfect black levels. There are some rare cases like flowers in a studio or vases or whatever you see on jet black backgrounds used for demo material. That is quite striking but I think even that stuff all looks better when they have some kind of diffuse lighting in the background rather than jet black.
 
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CapMan

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So far so good with my Panny LZ 1500 65" OLED. Better than the top of the range ZT65 Plasma it replaced. Nothing like as solid in build, but better picture, and cooler running. The filmmaker picture mode is 95% of what you get with a fully calibrated set.

It runs a clean cycle each day to refresh the screen.

I'm delighted with it.
 

Aerith Gainsborough

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So, I hold that with my TV's limited peak brightness of 1500 nits it can't support super high contrast and actually look good.
Well to have realistic HDR, you need far more than 1.5K nits.
I don't know the exact value myself but when you want to have the sun-lit entrance, viewed from some dark cave you need something like 4000+?
IIRC, 4000 or 10000 was the limit HDR material is currently mastered to but the panel interprets everything > 1000 the same way, since it usually can't do more, if it even can do 1000 full screen.

Not sure I'd want a 10K nits capable TV though. The sun can actually harm your eyes if you stare into it for too long. I do not want an entertainment device to be able to do that + film that is so bright that it makes me close my eyes for extended periods of time is kind umm... pointless. There is such a thing as "too much realism" in entertainment media.

That being said: I never found the picture of my TV (Sony XF90) to be "contrasty" or "unrealistic" and it's already bright enough that I squint and grunt at times when movies leverage the flashbang capabilities. Especially bright nature scenes look frikkin fantastic in HDR.
Not a professional photographer though, so maybe my knowledge and sensibilities are lacking. :'D
 

Curvature

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Thanks. I didn't understand that you don't actually own an OLED. I have an LED and I turn down the local dimming as low as it will go because I actually don't like perfect blacks. Way back when HDR displays were something that only existied in laboratories, I did some experiments of my own by making color prints on transparency film and stacking them. This dramatically increased the contrast. 3 prints stacked was very striking on a lightboard in a darkened room. But, it looked kind of crushy, very similar to what OLEDs and mini LEDs look like today. I needed to soften the pictures to get them to look more natural, but then what's the point of all that extra contrast capacity? The answer turned out to be getting much, much more light behind the high contrast picturess. When I was able to get diffused sunlight behind these transparancies, they quit looking overly contrasty and became very natural and lifelike looking. The dark areas became filled with detail even though the bright areas had gone up just as much. It became very dynamic and less contrasty looking. A field of flowers in sunlight looked practically perfect, it was literally taking my breath away it was so right looking. So, I hold that with my TV's limited peak brightness of 1500 nits it can't support super high contrast and actually look good. Dynamic looking and contrasty looking are very different perceptions. Perfect blacks capability is not necessarily a problem, but typically not all that helpful in my opinion. There needs to be a natural noise floor of some kind, and tone mapping of some kind of "S" curve into the picture to get a natural look at lower lighting levels. This has been know forever in photography, where prints are typically limted to about 300:1 contrast ratio. To look good, photography exposes with an exposure shoulder that's natural to the media with film, and has to be properly applied with digital. If an OLED or mini LED can do near perfect blacks, that's not necessarily a problem. But content creators with good taste should rarely ever let any part of the scene get too dark when they know the display can't get very bright, so the black capability is not all that useful unless you want to intenionall use it as an artisitc effect. I think they do use, and I often don't like the look they're going for. The stuff that does look good to me doesn't rely on the perfect black levels. There are some rare cases like flowers in a studio or vases or whatever you see on jet black backgrounds used for demo material. That is quite striking but I think even that stuff all looks better when they have some kind of diffuse lighting in the background rather than jet black.
32,000 nits – luminance of white card illuminated by sunlight+skylight at noon on a clear day
320 nits – luminance of diffuse white rendered by a typical consumer TV
32 nits – luminance of typical diffuse white in cinema
3.2 nits – the light from a single candle at 1 foot distance

No TV is capable of this dynamic range. I'm not even sure we have cameras that can capture it.


And then on the PQ EOTF curve.


Modern TVs use a lot of processing, including curves, including noise models, to deliver the picture.

The issue as I see it is that TVs are mass market devices. The most expensive TVs are usually about furniture and decor and aren't necessarily the best performers. As it is with the most expensive speakers. However, with speakers you have full access to the same tools that engineers use in studios to do their work, and they are relatively inexpensive, easy to setup and play.

With TVs, mastering monitors run tens of thousands of USD and the very best are not available for casual purchase at all. Most have fairly small displays as well, but are heavy and thick. Even if you do buy one, and I was considering doing just that to avoid the panel lottery and reliability issues, these are professional tools, and not consumer-friendly. As far as I know you have to manually select colorspace and other elements when using them, and they have no HDCP compatibility, and usually require special connections.

The more technical consumer will not be able to afford good display measurement gear, while excellent lab-worthy measurement microphones, although not cheap, are affordable.

Say you do measure the TV. Calibration only goes so far and some processing features are not open to be manipulated.

If there was ever an example of gatekeeping, it's with TVs.

Fortunately or unfortunately I've done enough work to understand display flaws, and the only conclusion I've reached is that I would rather be slightly grumpy as I watch a cheap display then buy an expensive TV I would consider artifically crippled by mass market considerations and manufacturing.

Maybe it's why I prefer audio.
 

holdingpants01

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I just bought 65" oled tv that replaced 55" lcd and I'm just in love with the picture quality. Viewing angles are amazing, blacks are black, colours are perfectly saturated and neutral, there's no "dirty" looking backlight, edges are the same as the rest of the screen. What's surprising to me I like to watch movies captured on real film camera the most, slightly blurry image, grain, not much contrast (at least compared to HDR), slightly unnatural colours can be noticed and appreciated much better now. It's a very similar effect as listening to a completely flat studio monitors for the first time
 
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Keith_W

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32,000 nits – luminance of white card illuminated by sunlight+skylight at noon on a clear day
320 nits – luminance of diffuse white rendered by a typical consumer TV
32 nits – luminance of typical diffuse white in cinema
3.2 nits – the light from a single candle at 1 foot distance

No TV is capable of this dynamic range. I'm not even sure we have cameras that can capture it.

It doesn't have to. The huge dynamic range of visible light is compensated for by constriction and dilation of the iris. What TV's need to do is reproduce the dynamic range of the retina, which is substantially less.

It is the same with sound, the muscles in the ossicles of the middle ear tighten and loosen via a reflex, which reduces the dynamic range of real life sound being transmitted through the fenestra ovalis into the Organ of Corti.
 

Tim Link

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It doesn't have to. The huge dynamic range of visible light is compensated for by constriction and dilation of the iris. What TV's need to do is reproduce the dynamic range of the retina, which is substantially less.

It is the same with sound, the muscles in the ossicles of the middle ear tighten and loosen via a reflex, which reduces the dynamic range of real life sound being transmitted through the fenestra ovalis into the Organ of Corti.
I think you are right, but the perceptual effect is not the same. When the iris is adjusting it craetes a different impression than when it's not. Same with the muscles in the ossicles. However it's reasonable to limit the dynamics to the limits of the unaided retina and the relaxed ear. That will be enough to get a very good look and sound. But, I'd like a little more dynamics. 10,000 nits would definitely be enough to be end game HDR. I wouldn't go further. Maybe 20,000:1 contrast ratio. I'm not sure how black the blacks need to be. It takes too long for our eyes to adjust to the dark to be practical in a movie I think, although that could be interesting to not be able to see hardly a thing for the first few minutes of a dark scene after a bright scene. LOL! That could be an interesting way to tittilate with nude scenes. I can imagine people wearing a pirate's eye patch to the movies, ready to quickly switch eyes for that brief scene in the dark shadows to get a better peep. A white card in direct sunlight is uncomfortable to look at in real life, leaving a vivid afterglow on the retina if you stare right at it for too long, so no need to push it that far. 10,000 is still comfortable for sparkling highlights and smaller bright areas, and reviews I've read about demo 10,000 TVs were all very positive. But I'd rather look at well graded SDR content on a lower dynamic range display than poorly graded HDR content on an excellent display.
 

Tim Link

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I've learned a lot from this thread, and it has forced me to test my own statements again on myself. Turns out, the standard settings on my QN85A in Filmmaker mode are indeed the best overall. Samsung knows their TV. I do appreciate the ability to turn down the local dimming, or adjust the gamma and lift shadow detail when needed, but most of the time it's better not to. I was turning the local dimming to low because the dimming can crush small highlights in large dark areas. That's definitely true, but it's a rarer issue than I was making it out to be, and for whatever reason the overall brightness is considerably reduced in many scenes when local dimming is on low. Probably a total power limitation thing. Overall the local dimming is definitely more of an asset than a liability, and the blooming is quite minimal in the standard setting, at least when sitting on-axis. Far enough off axis it's pretty bad.
I'll also say I'm more convinced than ever that my perceived issues with OLED have more to do with content I just don't like along with bad settings on store demo units than any brightness limitation of that technology. They're better on many bright scenes than I thought, and I can see why most people prefer them overall.
 
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Timcognito

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I've learned a lot from this thread, and it has forced me to test my own statements again on myself. Turns out, the standard settings on my QN85A in Filmmaker mode are indeed the best overall. Samsung knows their TV. I do appreciate the ability to turn down the local dimming, or adjust the gamma and lift shadow detail when needed, but most of the time it's better not to. I was turning the local dimming to low because the dimming can crush small highlights in large dark areas. That's definitely true, but it's a rarer issue than I was making it out to be, and for whatever reason the overall brightness is considerably reduced in many scenes when local dimming is on low. Probably a total power limitation thing. Overall the local dimming is definitely more of an asset than a liability, and the blooming is quite minimal in the standard setting, at least when sitting on-axis. Far enough off axis it's pretty bad.
There is often a power saving setting. Turn it off. Modern flat panels don't use much juice.
 

DLS79

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Retailers down play it, but getting a proper viewing area for HDR can be just as involved as getting a proper listening area.

  • You need a screen with good color and brightness uniformity before anything else.
  • position the screen to minimize reflections
  • You need to ensure the screen is well calibrated
  • black out curtains to block excess light
  • a lot of studios will have special lights with a very hi CRI value
  • a lot of studios will be painted with special neutral grey paint
 
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