Swapping AVR for Stereo AMP and DAC?

[luft262]

Hi. I just got some new speakers (used Focal Aria 926's) and they sound great. Before I was using the Pioneer Andrew Jones towers and center channel. My system sounds way better for music now and movies sound better too, but the new towers are so much more powerful than my old ones that my center channel can't keep up. Because of this I've been running my AVR in stereo mode using just the L/R and dual subwoofers. Honestly, 99% of the time it's either me or my wife and I using the TV and we always sit dead center so I'm debating the need for a center channel and surrounds. High quality stereo sounds great for movies and video games too! I'm debating if it would be better for me to get the Aria center channel and maybe upgrade my budget Onkyo AVR receiver later or if I should just ditch surround altogether and get a higher fidelity stereo DAC and AMP, like the SMSL M400 DAC and the SMSL SA400 AMP? My current AVR hasn't been tested on ASR, but it pretty much has all the features I need and can get plenty loud. The MFG claims 200 watts per channel at 8 ohms over two channels. (2 year old Onkyo $200 to $300 receiver 7.2 channels) I'm sure neither the AMP or DAC in my AVR are of the lowest distortion levels. If I ran my PS5 and Roku Player to my TV and used the Toslink out on the TV to stereo DAC would that still be good? For example, how would the DAC handle Dolby formats? If I were to play a 4K Blu-Ray with Dolby Atmos would it be able to send the two channel lossless signal to the DAC via the TV using toslink? Basically, if I traded the AVR/surround sound experience for greater audio fidelity over two channels would it even work? Would using the TV's toslink out to the M400 DAC not be good for some reason?

Thank you for your help!

 

[Chromatischism]

I also run a phantom center channel and depending on your system, room, and number of users, it can work just fine.

You need the AVR to decode surround formats like Dolby, DTS, etc. You can't do it with a normal DAC and amp. You could however configure the source (PS5, Roku) for stereo output and it would be downmixed in the player.

I wouldn't get rid of your surround setup, though. If you want a better amp just get a stereo amp for the front speakers and run RCA preouts to it, like a Hypex NCore NC252MP-based amp.

 

[luft262]

I thought about that, but if my speakers are already playing loud enough is there even much of a point to using the preouts? Also, it would still be using the DAC in the AVR. I guess my main concern is that I might not be getting the most out of my music due to noise from the AVR's AMP and DAC, but maybe I'm overthinking it. If my rather inexpensive AVR already has all of the features I want will I really benefit much from a more expensive AVR? I mean my Onkyo receiver was under $300 and it has everything I need except 8K output, but I can just use ARC and the only time I'm missing out on anything is when playing lossless audio from a physical 4K blu-ray so it's no biggie. I guess I just worry my inexpensive receiver might have a lot of noise in the AMP/DAC. I suppose this is the "rabbit hole." The new speakers sound better for music, but it throws off my home theater system causing me to have to do more upgrades lol! I guess I'll just keep my AVR and get the matching center channel.

 

[RayDunzl]

I guess I just worry my inexpensive receiver might have a lot of noise in the AMP/DAC.

Can you hear it?

I have measurable "noise" that I can see on a graph but not hear in the room.



Left monoblock, approximately 5W/4Ohm tone, loaded by the speakers:

Not great...

Left Channel.

695 more rated watts available, though.

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/krell-fpb-350-mcx.9870/

 

[Blumlein 88]

Started to write a long analysis of your situation and ways to go. Short answer I think is get a better center to keep up.

The auto downmixing to stereo is sometimes quite fine, and sometimes a mess. I'd keep with the surround if you already have it and upgrade the center speaker.

 

[luft262]

Yeah. That's a good point. I guess if everything sounds good and you have the features you want why upgrade? Many improvements may be below the threshold of audibility, especially with electronics, I suppose. Hey, while I have your ear and you guys are obviously more experienced with this than I am, will better subwoofers make the same kind of audible improvement better speakers do? For example, when I went from my budget towers ($100 to $200 ea) to my expensive ones ($2k+ ea new) there was a huge difference in sound quality. Will the same go for bass with better subs? Thanks.

 

[Blumlein 88]

Yeah. That's a good point. I guess if everything sounds good and you have the features you want why upgrade? Many improvements may be below the threshold of audibility, especially with electronics, I suppose. Hey, while I have your ear and you guys are obviously more experienced with this than I am, will better subwoofers make the same kind of audible improvement better speakers do? For example, when I went from my budget towers ($100 to $200 ea) to my expensive ones ($2k+ ea new) there was a huge difference in sound quality. Will the same go for bass with better subs? Thanks.

Better subs can be quite worthwhile. For music and most especially for movies/TV.

Rhythmiks are a good choice.
https://www.rythmikaudio.com/index.html

 

[luft262]

I looked at the Rythmiks. The F12 and F12-400 looked like it might fit the bill, but I worried the lack of app based DSP and stuff might be a downside vs SVS.

 

[Chromatischism]

I looked at the Rythmiks. The F12 and F12-400 looked like it might fit the bill, but I worried the lack of app based DSP and stuff might be a downside vs SVS.

Not needed at all.

 

[luft262]

How much difference do you think I would notice between the L12 with paper cones vs the F12 with aluminum cones? How about the F12-400 with the different amplifier (HX410PEQ)?

P.S. Don't feel obligated to look a bunch of stuff up. It's just fun to talk audio stuff with other people who know/care about it.

 

[Chromatischism]

I'm pretty familiar with these subs so no worries.

The F-series gets you premium options on the plate amp like more connection types and adjustment options. They also have a bit more low frequency extension and often times more amp power. Drivers are slightly different, with aluminum holding up better under stress so lower distortion, but I'm unsure if the difference is audible.