"Smart" power-on options for high WAF

[Bhh]

I have another thread about DSPs that is starting to drift in this direction so I wanted to just start a new thread here to make it easier to search.

As our audio systems become more complicated with additional components like preamps, dsps, subwoofers, streamers, etc., how does everyone keep them easy-to-use so the wife or kids don't have to go through an initialization checklist to simply stream some music from Spotify?

Currently, our living room integrated amp will come out of standby when it gets a digital signal from a Chromecast Audio so my wife can just ask our Google Assistant to play music or just select "Living Room" from Spotify and it plays. It just works and that simplicity is what allows me to keep this hobby in the sun-filled living room rather than banished below ground to the basement man-cave. I want to live in the light!

However, I am afflicted with Upgradeitis and want to add a room correction DSP, some subs, maybe Roon, etc. I know if I "break it" by complicating things with a bunch of extra steps to power everything on, things aren't going to be pleasant for me; happy wife-happy life, and all of that. How do you guys deal with this other than just leaving things on all the time?

I did find this "smart" power strip on Amazon that could power everything on with one additional step.
https://www.amazon.com/Protector-Appliances-Individual-Schedule-Required/dp/B076VRH9WP

One extra step might be workable if it can be done via app or Google Assistant but ideally it would be implemented by IFTTT (if this then that) so it would power everything on automatically if audio was requested. Anyway, I'm hoping to start a conversation and get some good ideas how others deal with this, it has to be a pretty common problem. Thanks.

Edit: I just found this thread which is similar and has some good info:
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...tes-and-manually-change-optical-inputs.11448/

 

[Karu]

In case it helps, I use the logitech harmony hub/extender and have programmed listen music, watch tv, etc. key functions via this, so there is one remote only. The components with IR are easy as they are programmable from logitech app, then I have an smart plug triggered emotiva 12v trigger that is linked to turn on/off power amps, and everything else is on all the time (streamer, dsp, preamp/dac), sub is auto standby.

 

[Bhh]

Ha! Just the mention of a Harmony remote threw my wife into a near fit of hysterics last weekend as she flashed back to our old complicated av setup that was controlled by a Harmony. That is a great solution to consolidate remotes though and their new hub looks like an interesting way of moving the remotes to an app based controller which is good for WAF as well.

That emotiva 12v trigger is super interesting though. I need to think through how that would work but that is potentially a very valuable tool.

 

[beefkabob]

I have two smart plugs for the stereo. I control them with a single samsung button. One press for on. Long press for off. They still have to switch the source. My son can do this. Sub, speakers, streamer/DSP, TV, and bluray all on one switch.

 

[bribur]

I have home automation with a hub to control wall switches and sockets. The main speaker power amp is in one smart socket and a Minidsp shd and main speaker dac in another. Subs go into standby automatically based on signal. I mainly turn it on and off with voice commands using an Amazon echo but a wall switch can be used with a triple tap. "Turn off stereo" turns off the power amp, then the rest after ten seconds to avoid a thump. It also shuts down late at night in case I forget to turn it off. I use Roon but guests can access Tidal through the SHD by entering the IP address in their device.

 

[stevenswall]

Does the thing playing back the music draw enough to trigger something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002K8S2J6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A "master" receptacle waits for the device plugged in to draw more power and then powers on the rest of the devices. There are also a few always on ports.

Most of these "smart devices" are actually stupid, because they take more time/steps than just flipping a switch. Hopefully you and your wife won't have to jibber jabber to Google more or poke at your phones more just to power things on.

Here's a thread for my setup:

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...otes-and-manually-change-optical-inputs.11448

I wouldn't use my optical switcher though.

 

[Bhh]

@stevenswall I found your thread earlier today ands actually linked to it at the bottom of my OP. I don’t know if the Chromecast pulls enough amps to trigger it but I’m going to find out because I ordered that exact surge protector earlier today. Its an awesome idea so I’m going to give it a shot and if so, it will solve a lot of problems. I will report back Friday!

 

[Neddy]

There are a zillion way to do this today.
I was a tiny bit concerned about inrush current draw if all my amps were triggered on at the same instant (as with a single 'smart' switch), so I ended up with a SurgeX power sequencer/conditioner (rack mount, but they make a variety of 'em). The OktoDAC has a trigger out signal, which I use to initiate power on sequencing (banks A, B, then C), and the DAC itself wakes up on a button press on the remote.
Simple, tho it does result in some relay clacking
I could also use the various trigger inputs on the SurgeX to work with one of the smart home devices, but find the simplicity of this 'One Remote to Rule Them All' approach very appealing.
(THe PC I use as the music HT source I leave on all the time.)

 

[stevenswall]

@stevenswall I found your thread earlier today ands actually linked to it at the bottom of my OP. I don’t know if the Chromecast pulls enough amps to trigger it but I’m going to find out because I ordered that exact surge protector earlier today. Its an awesome idea so I’m going to give it a shot and if so, it will solve a lot of problems. I will report back Friday!

A Chromecast does not pull enough to trigger it! Maybe have your Chromecast always on and the receiver plugged into the master port.

I'm going to plug another extension cable into the master port and try having the Chromecast, MiniDSP, and Optical switcher all activate and hopefully pull enough power to trigger the TV and speakers.

Really I just need to get a TV that turns on fast enough so I don't have to use the Chromecast Audio.

 

[suttondesign]

I leave my iPad and a MacBook with Roon's software open and the living room system (through a Matrix Audio streamer) always on. All my wife has to do is use the Roon interface. She does fine with it.

The media room setup has only two sources, the music server and the video sound. If I accidentally forget to set the sound output to the video sound, the kids and wife usually can't figure out, even though it's just a single "source" button on a very small remote for a MiniDSP 4x10. But the setup is new, so I think they'll learn to push the "source" button pretty soon.

No one knows how to select and use the media room music server except me. It's okay, none of them want to use it anway. It's Dad's dedicated mancave audio setup. I don't want them messing with it anyhow.

No one knows how to use my dedicated upstairs headphone rig attached to a separate Mac Mini Roon core and outboard DAC/pre. But it's behind the headboard of the bed, so they don't care too much.

 

[Jake's Dad]

I use Amazon Echo and smart plugs for my wife to do the following:

1. "Alexa, turn on main stereo. Play XXXX."

There is no #2.

 

[stevenswall]

I use Amazon Echo and smart plugs for my wife to do the following:

1. "Alexa, turn on main stereo. Play XXXX."

There is no #2.

Do you have to say Alexa twice, or you can give it multiple commands in one shot?

 

[Jake's Dad]

@stevenswall, there's a setting in the Alexa companion app the tells Alexa to keep listening for a short while after being woken (sp? awoken?). So, only multiple commands, gently, can be done in one shot.