Your amplifier.Where does the energy to go beyond the limit come from if the air and the mechanical suspension oppose resistance?
Your amplifier.Where does the energy to go beyond the limit come from if the air and the mechanical suspension oppose resistance?
So yes, in theory, you can blast all the 200W into the 32W without destroying it even below 10Hz. In practice though, music has a larger crest factor, and you'll probably put a bigger amp on it. And then the risk gets a lot bigger.Where does the energy to go beyond the limit come from if the air and the mechanical suspension oppose resistance?
But in reality, before you blow the cone of a driver, it will already sound very ugly and you will turn it down lf you want good sound. And xmax is where the driver stops act linear, xmech is where you blow the driver. Xmech is with this driver 28mm (double of xmax) following published specs. That means you need a 1000w at 20Hz freq to get there with this driver, and for longer than a few ms's. And that is THX reference level (105dB) at 20Hz if i simulate it at that power. Normally you will never come near that in reality.So yes, in theory, you can blast all the 200W into the 32W without destroying it even below 10Hz. In practice though, music has a larger crest factor, and you'll probably put a bigger amp on it. And then the risk gets a lot bigger.
Unless kids or alcohol are involvedyou will turn it down lf you want good sound
Speaker building is good for the soul.Are you a keen woodworker and have you built speakers before...do you know what you're getting yourself in for?
Maybe that explains the state of mine, I obviously need to build more (any).Speaker building is good for the soul.
Bass distortion is not easy to hear. You may be surprised. Possibly by then other noises (or smells) coming from the thing may indicate imminent doomBut in reality, before you blow the cone of a driver, it will already sound very ugly and you will turn it down lf you want good sound.
There is more than one way to kill a wooferThat means you need a 1000w at 20Hz freq to get there with this driver, and for longer than a few ms's. And that is THX reference level (105dB) at 20Hz if i simulate it at that power. Normally you will never come near that in reality.
What do you mean by "extreme example?" Thanks!To set the history straight. Acoustic suspension was simply an extreme example of a sealed box. The cone was exceptionally heavy and the driver suspension very soft. Some modern sub drivers approach that.
Good question. I think Villchur had some arbitrary ratio of driver Vas to box volume, but I don't recall. I'm sure some Googling will give you an article. In any event it's more of a marketing than an engineering concept.What do you mean by "extreme example?" Thanks!
Well ok, this assumes the music has very high infrasonic content (more than the >20hz part you are hearing comfortably, so away from the xmax of the various drivers)So yes, in theory, you can blast all the 200W into the 32W without destroying it even below 10Hz. In practice though, music has a larger crest factor, and you'll probably put a bigger amp on it. And then the risk gets a lot bigger.
It may also depend on whatever your listing to. If your a LP person and your pre-amp doesn’t filter sufficiently, it may be an extra good idea. We’ve had a topic about this very issue last week. Also, if you apply room EQ, and boost below driver fs, be carefully. Likewise with things like a Linkwitz-transform, especially if the box it smaller than recommended.Well ok, this assumes the music has very high infrasonic content (more than the >20hz part you are hearing comfortably, so away from the xmax of the various drivers)
My first speakers were AR5s (couldn't afford the AR3s). I'll do some digging for Villchur articles. Once again, thanks!Good question. I think Villchur had some arbitrary ratio of driver Vas to box volume, but I don't recall. I'm sure some Googling will give you an article. In any event it's more of a marketing than an engineering concept.
It was sort of revolutionary back then. Amps had become commonly available with lots of power, and he took advantage of that.My first speakers were AR5s (couldn't afford the AR3s). I'll do some digging for Villchur articles. Once again, thanks!
I bought the system in '74 or '75. In addition to the ARs, it included Pioneer separates and a Thorens TD125AB MkII. I had encountered some AR MSTs in a show room in Birmingham, AL during the summer of '74. As an 18 or 19 year old, I was most impressed.It was sort of revolutionary back then. Amps had become commonly available with lots of power, and he took advantage of that.
A friend had AR3s. i liked them.I bought the system in '74 or '75. In addition to the ARs, it included Pioneer separates and a Thorens TD125AB MkII. I had encountered some AR MSTs in a show room in Birmingham, AL during the summer of '74. As an 18 or 19 year old, I was most impressed.
In my shop, I now have a pair of Cerwin-Vega AT15s that are driven by a Harman-Kardon HK670 Twin. The AT15s need new cabinets; I'm hoping that will a winter project for me.A friend had AR3s. i liked them.
2 newbie things I'm finding confusing:
1. When I view frequency response of 12-15" sub drivers on manufacturers' pages (they usually say it's a sealed or vented box and specify volume), they all drop off sharply at about 50 Hz.
I've looked at this for the ScanSpeak driver, as well as SB Acoustics, B&C, BMS, Beyma, Sica, Dayton.
So to implement these drivers I would have to do massive EQ boosts in the low end? That seems bad.
What I mean is, on a commercial sub, say https://www.audioholics.com/subwoofer-reviews/monolith-13201d-thx-ultra/conclusion , the drop off occurs at a much more impressive ~20 Hz.
2. The ScanSpeak 32W has a resonance frequency of 18Hz. Does that mean I cannot have extension to say 16Hz (pipe organ lowest note), because it requires crossing the 18Hz Fs which will presumably sound unpleasant?
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I'm not after massive SPL (my room is small-medium at 2200 cubic ft), but I want to have low frequency extension to cover all material in movies (including 10-20 Hz range). I know it's not audible but maybe possible to feel.
My goal is to make something comparable to the Monoprice Monolith 13” THX Ultra or Perlisten D12S.