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Room Measurement Tutorial for Dummies Part 2

I thought, it didn't work to boost the room modes with the EQ?
Or did I get something wrong?
Auto EQ will not attempt to boost that dip in 63Hz. It will only use it (if it can) to correct for the steep cuts it will need for the peaks.
 
how can I determine where and in what size an FWD would be most effective in my case?
 
how can I determine where and in what size an FWD would be most effective in my case?
Depends on the size and reflectivity of you rroom really. FDW 15 is a good starting point. It will not effect the LF much.
 
Long time reader first time poster. I've downloaded REW, read guide 1 and 2 and a handfull of you tubes and have managed to get my first result. L and R speakers separately. It is a dedicated theater room (kind of under construction still - needs some sound treatment on the right side for some basement box windows and carpet instead of wood on the floor). Curious about your thoughts on the L vs R and the dip at 85Hz. R is Purple, L is Teal. Having listened to the Audyssey calibration several times now I'm thinking that speaker may have something awry with the tweeter... Speakers are JBL Studio 6 88 LCRs - sub is an older SVS SB15

This one is after I "fixed" some things Audyssey configured that didn't make sense (if it's a bad / blown speaker that would explain a lot.)

Screenshot 2023-08-31 at 2.35.21 PM.png



This is What Audyssey wants to do out - the distances, gain, and crossovers go completely wonky. Looks like it is trying to compensate for the right speaker.

Screenshot 2023-08-31 at 3.05.46 PM.png
 
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This is What Audyssey wants to do out - the distances, gain, and crossovers go completely wonky.
Something is completely wonky.
Audyssey would never correct to curves like that unless something in your AVR is amiss or something
in your calibration setup-adjustments is not being done properly. Review your procedures.
 
Something is completely wonky.
Audyssey would never correct to curves like that unless something in your AVR is amiss or something
in your calibration setup-adjustments is not being done properly. Review your procedures.
Flipped the L and R - same result with the R channel (amp thinks it is L) falling off. I dont think it is an AVR issue, thinking speaker / tweet blown.

Screenshot 2023-09-01 at 4.08.06 PM.png
 
Defaulted the AVR and got this L and R are still swapped on on the mains. Green is R - amp thinks it is L.... The drop follows when I switch it back.
Screenshot 2023-09-01 at 4.16.24 PM.png
 
Is the use of a calibration file,
from my microphone (OMNITRONIC mm2usb) actually recommended or necessary?
 
Is the use of a calibration file,
from my microphone (OMNITRONIC mm2usb) actually recommended or necessary?
If you have one, yes. When entered into the REW data base it corrects for inaccuracy's of the microphone.
 
Yes, Omnitronic Sales sent me the file within a few minutes.
 
If you have one, yes. When entered into the REW data base it corrects for inaccuracy's of the microphone.
So while we're on this, does it matter whether you use the 0 degree or 90 degree mic method so long as you use the appropriate calibration file? I'm using a UMIK-1 and have always used 0 degrees for my 2.0/2.1 system, having assumed that the 90 degrees method was for multichannel with height speakers etc. I see more and more people using the 90 degree method on youtube even for 2 channel systems. Thanks.
 
So while we're on this, does it matter whether you use the 0 degree or 90 degree mic method so long as you use the appropriate calibration file? I'm using a UMIK-1 and have always used 0 degrees for my 2.0/2.1 system, having assumed that the 90 degrees method was for multichannel with height speakers etc. I see more and more people using the 90 degree method on youtube even for 2 channel systems. Thanks.
I'm not an expert here but my understanding is if your doing individual speaker measurements and you have the mic pointed directly at the speaker, you use 0. If your doing in-room measurements such as Audyssey/Dirac calibrations, etc, with the mic pointed up, the 90 is correct.
 
Hi everyone!
Just sharing my measurements, I made a smoother curve to start. I’m newbie on this matter. PEQ are loaded on HQplayer.
 

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Hi, I’m considering grabbing a UMIK1 but my receiver is another room in an equipment rack. Cable would probably need to be 50ft or longer. Any suggestions for setup in this scenario? I figure trying to use a really long hdmi cable is better than trying to use a long mic cable.
 
Cable would probably need to be 50ft or longer.
You should be able to get out to long lengths using a powered USB hub in the middle, or an active cable.
How long do you really need?
Active USB cables can go out to 90'

I figure trying to use a really long hdmi cable is better than trying to use a long mic cable.
I've no idea how you figure to go from USB to HDMI and back again?
 
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