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Review and Measurements of Topping D50 DAC

robertospeed

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I have the Topping D50 and for the moment I use its USB power cable with a smartphone charger and it sounds great, I wanted to know if I should buy the TOPPING P50 Linear power supply to improve the sound, or stay the way I am now.
 

Veri

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I have the Topping D50 and for the moment I use its USB power cable with a smartphone charger and it sounds great, I wanted to know if I should buy the TOPPING P50 Linear power supply to improve the sound, or stay the way I am now.

Don't waste your money. Zero benefits. See here. Apple charger is perfectly fine, linear PSU can reduce ultrasonics. which you cannot hear.
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...o-you-need-linear-power-supply-for-dacs.7021/

J6fAXTA.png

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...o-you-need-linear-power-supply-for-dacs.7021/
 
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Kiko1974

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I play mostly Hi Res PCM 96/24 and 192/24 and DSD files ripped from my SACD's and turned into DSD over PCM files (I don't like the word "conversion" regarding this process as no real conversion is done, just a change of container) with dBPoweramp on my D50.
I have the feeling that the Topping D50 sounds better when playing DSD that while playing either 96/24 or 192/24.
Am I the only one who thinks that or has anybody else noticed that? Maybe it's just my imagination or my bias towards DSD which I prefer to PCM.
 

digitalfrost

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I had my 2 Topping D50 running for some months now, I never kill the power so they were on 24/7.

I wanted to adjust something in the menu today, but the button didn't work. They both locked up somehow. After a power cycle, both work again as expected.
This just happened again. Wanted to check filter settings, both D50 dead. Neither the joystick nor the power button did anything. But they were still processing audio. Unplugged the PSU, plugged it in again, works...
 

ImolaRed

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Just bought a used D50 but it didn't come with a charger, it came with the cable though. Which kind of usb charger will work for this, just tried an aftermarket iphone type charger and it's a 5v but got nothing.
 

Toku

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Just bought a used D50 but it didn't come with a charger, it came with the cable though. Which kind of usb charger will work for this, just tried an aftermarket iphone type charger and it's a 5v but got nothing.
Power supplies have already been discussed in forums many times. The bottom line is that a charger for mobile devices such as the iPhone will suffice if it is rated at 1A or higher at 5V. No special specifications are required.
I also tried using the cleanest battery power supply from the doubts about the power supply, but there was no merit.
 

Kaval

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Hi Guys, I am a new member here. I need your help re replacing op amps in D50s. After opening 4 screws on the outer body, I opened 2 more screws attached inside, but the inside plate (where 2 internal screws are attached) is not coming out as cable is attached and hence I am unable to access the opamps section. Kindly tell me the next 2-3 steps to access opamp section. thanks in advance
 

JohnYang1997

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The first time I saw someone had kicked out a power cord - while cutting their corner too close rounding a corner in a data center, the other redundant power supply kicked in and there wasn't a glitch in power delivery or downtime. The powering down of the currently primary power supply was logged however - so it did happen. That's how we catch those little events - even if you plug the cord back in quickly.

Why don't A90's / D90's have redundant power supplies, or log such events in the log server??!! o_O

Most consumer devices don't come with an "idiot strap" to hold in the power cord - or any of the other socketed cords going in to the back of devices.

This is done to reduce costs and allow the "Darwin Effect" to play through.

Ethernet cables have locking lugs designed in to the socket, speaker wires that screw into posts will hold well enough to pull the equipment out of their position, and even RCA's grip hard enough for children to drag equipment by the wires, room to room.

There are positives and negatives around locking cords / cables, and overall it's better to have the cable pull out than the equipment be pulled down off their perch. :cool:

Usually the equipment survives the "unplugging" event just fine, as silence usually follows. The "dangerous" event is when plugging in a new AMP without reducing the volume controls to Zero before plugging the power cord back in...you did turn the volume's down before plugging back in?

The power doesn't change on minute by minute, second by second basis. The power is a constant, until the device is physically moved to another geographical region. There's no reason to burden the device with circuitry to detect power changes, set it and forget it.

In the past there were different sub-models used as solution - as there were different printed manuals - different power cables - etc - but that made inventory fracturing a problem - too many models. You'd get an order from a region without product on the shelf and they'd re-box them to fit, a costly and time wasting process. There would be overstock of one model and not enough of another model, as each region focused sales efforts.

Now multi-language manuals - or no manuals, all online - kits of plugs for power with power switches on the device - result in much lower costs for inventory on hand and much quicker response to fill sales orders.

The world is full of things we don't know and need to learn via our own research - or rushed mistakes - it's our choice which path we choose.

The D90 is likely just fine, reset all the volume controls down to Zero and plug in the power cord firmly this time, dress the cable with cable ties if you feel so inclined - you expect another potential incident to occur - that's why I "child proofed" my home racks for years.

Personal responsibility is in play here. Take responsibility for not plugging in the power cable adequately, or goofing some personal movement that jerked out the cord.

There's no manufacturer blame due here. It's all your responsibility.

If you did return the D90 the seller charge you for self-inflicted damage, and not provide free warranty repair or replacement.

Usually when someone pulls a boner like this the vendor laughs to themselves, and kindly replaces the user inflicted damage, if the customer is nice about it. :)
May I ask why this post is under this thread. It confused the heck out of me for last few minutes...
 

restorer-john

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Personal responsibility is in play here. Take responsibility for not plugging in the power cable adequately, or goofing some personal movement that jerked out the cord.

There's no manufacturer blame due here. It's all your responsibility.

No. That's just not true. Many IEC plugs and sockets are cheap rubbish. Many of them arc regularly due to poorly molded (the cheapest they can find) plugs. Often it is the cheap cable/plug and not the socket- sometimes it is both. They also lose their resilience, become hardened and develop poor contracts in the plug/socket itself.

Stick a switchmode supply in the device and the arcing/intermittent problem is worse. An arcing plug/socket will make a hell of a noise through an amplified system and may destroy all manner of gear.

Personally, although I kind of like the IEC plug/socket in some ways, they are really just a way to save costs for international distribution (all they need to do is change the moulded supplied lead for the country concerned instead of actually rewiring like it was done in the past).

There's nothing better than a nice fat 10A minimum cable going through a chassis clamp and correctly terminated inside the chassis.
 
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JohnYang1997

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No. That's just not true. Many IEC plugs and sockets are cheap rubbish. Many of them arc regularly due to poorly molded (the cheapest they can find) plugs. Often it is the cheap cable/plug and not the socket- sometimes it is both. They also lose their resilience, become hardened and develop poor contracts in the plug/socket itself.

Stick a switchmode supply in the device and the arcing/intermittent problem is worse. An arcing plug/socket will make a hell of a noise through an amplified system and may destroy all manner of gear.

Personally, although I kind of like the IEC plug/socket in some ways, they are really just a way to save costs for international distribution (all they need to do is change the moulded supplied lead for the country concerned instead of actually rewiring like it was done in the past).

There's nothing better than a nice fat 10A minimum cable going through a chassis clamp and correctly terminated inside the chassis.
Oh come on.
 

robertospeed

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Today I connected the Topping D50 to the Topping P50 only that the plug put it in DC15V / 1A and the Topping D50 does not want to turn on anymore, has it burned out?
Before it was connected in DC5V / 1A usb and worked well.
Please let me know if I electrocuted topping d50

TOPPING-P50.jpg
 

JohnYang1997

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Today I connected the Topping D50 to the Topping P50 only that the plug put it in DC15V / 1A and the Topping D50 does not want to turn on anymore, has it burned out?
Before it was connected in DC5V / 1A usb and worked well.
Please let me know if I electrocuted topping d50

TOPPING-P50.jpg
Well. Yes.
 

vkvedam

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Today I connected the Topping D50 to the Topping P50 only that the plug put it in DC15V / 1A and the Topping D50 does not want to turn on anymore, has it burned out?
Before it was connected in DC5V / 1A usb and worked well.
Please let me know if I electrocuted topping d50

TOPPING-P50.jpg
Oops! :oops:
 
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