Pioneer GM-D1004 Fuse

[AzrielID]

Hi, im new in this forum
I have a pretty stressfull situation where i want to upgrade my car sound quality (i have base audio EU variant, so the worst one)
I decided to upgrade the speakers with the Axton specific series (2 way on front + the woofers, coaxial in the back) and, for the price, they actually sound good.
Before buying them, i had a Vibe powerbox, but when tried to use the Low level input i found some issues with the front channel ground (litteraly no ground all over the circuit) and i decided to pick the GM-D1004 as a temporary amp.
I read about the fact can be capable of more, but the actual 15A fuse is the limit. Can be possible to put in a bigger amp? or could be some heat issues?

Just for info: already solved the issue with the front 3 way channel by installing a passive crossover (KEF KDN10, 250hz low pass)

 

[DVDdoug]

I read about the fact can be capable of more, but the actual 15A fuse is the limit. Can be possible to put in a bigger amp? or could be some heat issues?

That's the factory car-fuse, I assume? You can bypass it with a custom fuse if you blow it. The fuse won't limit current/power until it blows.

12V x 15A = 180W. That's the power into the amp, and it's never 100% efficient. But since (hopefully) you aren't running constant full-power test tones, you'll only be putting maximum power on the program peaks and that makes it less likely to blow the fuse.

Can be possible to put in a bigger amp? or could be some heat issues?

Heat shouldn't be a problem, especially with class-D. ...I've had a couple of subwoofer amps die and it was probably related to mounting in a place with poor air circulation. I've got class-D now and it's been OK for a couple of years.

 

[AzrielID]

That's the factory car-fuse, I assume? You can bypass it with a custom fuse if you blow it. The fuse won't limit current/power until it blows.

12V x 15A = 180W. That's the power into the amp, and it's never 100% efficient. But since (hopefully) you aren't running constant full-power test tones, you'll only be putting maximum power on the program peaks and that makes it less likely to blow the fuse.


Heat shouldn't be a problem, especially with class-D. ...I've had a couple of subwoofer amps die and it was probably related to mounting in a place with poor air circulation. I've got class-D now and it's been OK for a couple of years.

Uh, thank for the fast reply, didnt expect that, i notice that i say "amp" while i wanted to type Fuse

Im a newby in the hifi world (will at home im running some KEF Q100 with a Onkyo TX-NR1007) and i actually dont know how the power rate and handling actually works
For example:
Front channel Axton b100c + Axton BSUB4 (60W RMS «i see on the tweeter about 20W» i dont know peak power + 150W RMS/300W Peak)
Rear channel Axton b100x (60W RMS, dont know peak power and tweeter power)
LINKs

https://axton.de/ats-b100c-axton-specific-2-way-compo-for-bmw.html

https://axton.de/ats-bsub4-axton-specific-untersitzbass-fuer-bmw.html

https://axton.de/ats-b100x-aston-specific-2-way-coax-for-bmw.html

On the pioneer site the Amp is rated at 45W RMS and 100W peak (and than 400W max), how can i suppose that the actual speaker would work fine without distorsion and the power will be enought?

And, if the max output power is rated at 400W, wasnt supposed to have a 30A fuse?

Forgive my ignorance in HiFi and audio in general ahah

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