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Need help grasping how to connect active speakers to a sub - Kali LP-UNF / Kali LP-6 v2 with sub

Oh I see. The Kali UNF takes everything into one speaker and then has an interconnect between that primary speaker and the secondary one that passes the audio for that channel (and I believe power as well). I guess it might have been clearer in that aspect if I showed the second speaker and the interconnect cable, but it didn't seem necessary at the time.
Got it. Thanks!
 
Yeah, the Wiim Ultra (or Pro or Pro Plus) are just like the Wiim Amp, except they don't have amplification. So you could do all the same things, except instead of connecting to passive speakers directly, you'd either need a separate external amp or you could connect them to active speakers like the Kali.
I see, thank you very much for the help
 
With WiiM Ultra streamer you can connect your computer and TV and use the subwoofer you linked above and the Kali LP-6 v2 speakers. Or other subwoofer and active speakers if you choose.
Perfect, I think that could be the easiest solution, looks like it anyway, tried to see if I can get around using something like the WiiM but it just seems like the easiest way to go thank you
 
Sorry. I know how confusing it can be. And I'm not helping.
Nah don't worry bud, anything I read here is of massive help and it helped clarify something in the end anyway so cheers for that
 
Perfect, I think that could be the easiest solution, looks like it anyway, tried to see if I can get around using something like the WiiM but it just seems like the easiest way to go thank you
You can use something different but I was trying to stick with easy and the subwoofer and speakers you mentioned.
 
You can use something different but I was trying to stick with easy and the subwoofer and speakers you mentioned.
Sorry I meant I was trying to originally go without using anything other than the a sub and speakers I mispoke there would there be much point in going for that subwoofer in this scenario? I was originally thinking of it only cause I was thinking to skip out on any DAC etc but I wonder if it'd be more cost effective to just go with a simpler cheaper sub and just go with the WiiM
 
Even with the Kali subwoofer you need a DAC in front it only has analog in so you wouldn't have avoided skipping out.

Kali LP-UNF or Kali LP-6 v2 but here's the part I don't really understand :

people mention that you don't need an external DAC or an audio interface for these speakers to connect to certain subwoofers such as the Kali WS 6.2
Whoever told you that is wrong. The Kali LP-UNF can be connected to a computer with USB -C but you can't go to the subwoofer from the the speaker. The LP-6 and WS 6.2 need to have a DAC before since they only have analog in.
 
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Even with the Kali subwoofer you need a DAC in front it only has analog in so you wouldn't have avoided skipping out.
Would the way Kyuu presented it originally with the connection going XLR to TRS and then RCA that wouldn't have worked would it? Or straight through the XLR with the Kali LP-6 or am I getting confused
 
Would the way Kyuu presented it originally with the connection going XLR to TRS and then RCA that wouldn't have worked would it? Or straight through the XLR with the Kali LP-6 or am I getting confused
You mean like his diagram?
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Yes it would work though you're using RCA (analog) out from the computer which means the DAC used is the DAC of the computers soundcard. You mentioned connecting a TV as well so that's why I mentioned an external DAC with more inputs.
 
Ah yeah I missed the TV bit. Yeah in that case you want something with additional inputs, like one of the Wiim products. No doubt it's a better DAC than whatever is in your PC as well.
 
You mean like his diagram?
View attachment 418224

Yes it would work though you're using RCA (analog) out from the computer which means the DAC used is the DAC of the computers soundcard. You mentioned connecting a TV as well so that's why I mentioned an external DAC with more inputs.
Ah that makes sense, thank you for clarifying. I think I have a much better grasp of it now
 
Ah yeah I missed the TV bit. Yeah in that case you want something with additional inputs, like one of the Wiim products. No doubt it's a better DAC than whatever is in your PC as well.
Thank you for all your explanations bud, they're hugely beneficial as well, much appreciated
 
Ufff huh the TV will be a problem. I hope it's proper PC and that orientation in room is that length is 4 m. If you want to do proper crossovers you need multichannel card and it still won't be easy. Rute without sub as simple and as cheap as it gets; get 8" Kali LP8 V2 or JBL 308P MK 2 whichever is cheaper where you are and stereo DAC with Toslink or HDMI input for TV and USB for PC. It can be and combo of a kind with hedaphone amp and so on. Lot's to choose from.
A PC route with PCI-E x1 audio card. Well you are out of luck when it comes to Toslink input as AE-9 ain't something to recommend for the price. Old Sound blaster Z SE with old CS ADC & DAC will do the job fine as long as you don't go over -1.5~2 dB (1.75~1.8V) and you objectively don't need more to feed any amplifier unbalanced (even those that accept more), headaphone amp ain't great and has self impedance of about 20 ohms but for 100$ it's acceptable (to me at least and not really using hedaphone amp). Regarding software you should try EQ-APO and JRiver both with (acting like) WDM driver.
 
Ufff huh the TV will be a problem. I hope it's proper PC and that orientation in room is that length is 4 m. If you want to do proper crossovers you need multichannel card and it still won't be easy. Rute without sub as simple and as cheap as it gets; get 8" Kali LP8 V2 or JBL 308P MK 2 whichever is cheaper where you are and stereo DAC with Toslink or HDMI input for TV and USB for PC. It can be and combo of a kind with hedaphone amp and so on. Lot's to choose from.
A PC route with PCI-E x1 audio card. Well you are out of luck when it comes to Toslink input as AE-9 ain't something to recommend for the price. Old Sound blaster Z SE with old CS ADC & DAC will do the job fine as long as you don't go over -1.5~2 dB (1.75~1.8V) and you objectively don't need more to feed any amplifier unbalanced (even those that accept more), headaphone amp ain't great and has self impedance of about 20 ohms but for 100$ it's acceptable (to me at least and not really using hedaphone amp). Regarding software you should try EQ-APO and JRiver both with (acting like) WDM driver.
Hi, proper PC, currently rocking a 4090 with a Ryzen 7 7800x3D on a Gigabyte B650 Gaming X AX motherboard ver. 1.3

I guess I meant maybe they wouldn't need to be connected at the same time, just moving things around from PC to TV from time to time.

I'm not sure what you mean by "proper crossovers"? I'm a bit lost with the rest to be honest, are you saying just the WiiM wouldn't be enough?
 
Ufff huh the TV will be a problem. I hope it's proper PC and that orientation in room is that length is 4 m. If you want to do proper crossovers you need multichannel card and it still won't be easy. Rute without sub as simple and as cheap as it gets; get 8" Kali LP8 V2 or JBL 308P MK 2 whichever is cheaper where you are and stereo DAC with Toslink or HDMI input for TV and USB for PC. It can be and combo of a kind with hedaphone amp and so on. Lot's to choose from.
A PC route with PCI-E x1 audio card. Well you are out of luck when it comes to Toslink input as AE-9 ain't something to recommend for the price. Old Sound blaster Z SE with old CS ADC & DAC will do the job fine as long as you don't go over -1.5~2 dB (1.75~1.8V) and you objectively don't need more to feed any amplifier unbalanced (even those that accept more), headaphone amp ain't great and has self impedance of about 20 ohms but for 100$ it's acceptable (to me at least and not really using hedaphone amp). Regarding software you should try EQ-APO and JRiver both with (acting like) WDM driver.
Forgot to reply that the length is 4m yes but the PC is positioned on the width axis of the room at the moment, is that bad?
 
@WhyNot not sure about WiiM as USB audio 2.0 input.
Will be hard to add PCI-E card next to something like RX 4090 monster not too obstruct it's air input, eventually behind it (if such board) or with razer somewhere. In your case you would have to plug it in the last x16 slot.
By proper crossover I mean devided between different chenels with full access to it so you can make it as you wish/need and with high self fillers of course. EQ-APO is free and has a lot of stuff so you should first play with it to get the picture what needs and can be done before baying speakers (with whatever you have already). You will nead a measurements microphone like preferably UMIK-1 and to learn basics of working with REW (free software).
Reconsider easy route (stereo only) with a DAC with inputs you need and basic PEQ capabilities embedded on it at least.
You can go and with stand alone DSP like MiniDSP line's (Flex, Flex HT, studio...).
Forgot to reply that the length is 4m yes but the PC is positioned on the width axis of the room at the moment, is that bad?
Regarding sound it's bad, without proper placement of both you and speakers you won't get there. Of course it's very complicated to go other way around for the display and so on. I am in similar sized room and use projector for the purpose on 100" rollable canvas.
 
@WhyNot not sure about WiiM as USB audio 2.0 input.
Will be hard to add PCI-E card next to something like RX 4090 monster not too obstruct it's air input, eventually behind it (if such board) or with razer somewhere. In your case you would have to plug it in the last x16 slot.
By proper crossover I mean devided between different chenels with full access to it so you can make it as you wish/need and with high self fillers of course. EQ-APO is free and has a lot of stuff so you should first play with it to get the picture what needs and can be done before baying speakers (with whatever you have already). You will nead a measurements microphone like preferably UMIK-1 and to learn basics of working with REW (free software).
Reconsider easy route (stereo only) with a DAC with inputs you need and basic PEQ capabilities embedded on it at least.
You can go and with stand alone DSP like MiniDSP line's (Flex, Flex HT, studio...).

Regarding sound it's bad, without proper placement of both you and speakers you won't get there. Of course it's very complicated to go other way around for the display and so on. I am in similar sized room and use projector for the purpose on 100" rollable canvas.
I see, am I understanding correctly that what you're saying is going with external DAC will be way simpler because the I PC route without DAC would require a sound card and the one on the motherboard isn't enough to allow for proper crossover channels etc? Sorry still trying to grasp it.

Would you have any advise on what would be the most cost effective way to get a 2.1 going? I guess I could've just went Kali's LP Unf and call it a day but really want a sub. I was originally thinking about the Kalis (either LP-UNF or LP-6) and the Kali sub which would potentially allow me to skip on the DAC? But the more I'm reading peoples replies here the more I'm leaning towards a DAC as it would spare a load of headache and maybe I could go with a cheaper sub as the DAC would take care of some of the stuff
 
@WhyNot as it is I wouldn't use PC anything internal, you have 1 KW high teach heater. Maybe we are overthinking this. What's the TV? Where you are (country) and how much you want to spend and achieving what?
 
@WhyNot as it is I wouldn't use PC anything internal, you have 1 KW high teach heater. Maybe we are overthinking this. What's the TV? Where you are (country) and how much you want to spend and achieving what?
I see, currently using PC mainly with MSI 4k OLED 32 inch MPG321URX and at the minute it'll be used on this but planning on adding on a TV, not sure which yet but some kind of an OLED possibly, but have to be realistic and say that at the minute it's too much of an investment so watching on the PC mainly.

As for the budget Im trying to keep it as low as possible for a decent 2.1 (I know, original) so the setup I was looking at with the Kali LP-UNF and Kali sub was about 850 euro, I could stretch it to 1k but then again I was really impressed at the value of Polk XT20s and a sub from BK electronics, was thinking maybe with something like this and a DAC I could squeeze into that 850 euro budget more or less? Just trying to get best bang for the buck entry level 2.1 setup while getting something decent with respectable reviews. But yeah originally thinking of Kali LP-UNF as I heard they're amazing and a sub to match them and the one suggested around was the one from Kali themselves
 
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