4) Nearfield Bass Measurements
Because gating the impulse response means we lose bass resolution, we need to make up for it by capturing the bass some other way. Some people use the
ground-plane method, which is essentially the gold standard outside of a giant anechoic chamber or NFS, but it requires having like 30 feet of open space around the speaker, which most of us don't have.
Nearfield bass measurements can be done virtually anywhere and can get us pretty darn close to an anechoic or ground plane response. As we are measuring extremely close to the sound sources, it drowns out any reflections from the room. Here's the summary of what we're about to do.
- Measure the bass sound sources from really close up.
- Adjust SPL levels for the different radiating areas.
- Sum the measurements
- Modify the sum to be accurate at farfield distances (baffle step adjustment)
- (Optional) Splice to on-axis in REW. This can be done later in VituixCAD too when creating a full spinorama.
For this guide we are going to use the most common speaker type: a ported two-way speaker (I'm using the
JBL-HDI-1600 for this example).
We start by capturing the individual frequency response of the bass sound sources. You should start with the smaller sound source, usually the port (more on this later). Then:
- Measure the diameter/area of the port. If it's a flanged or tapered port, you can use either the 'throat' or 'mouth' of the port, but I lean towards the former as it'll be louder and have less potential contamination.
- Set your microphone flush with the port's throat or mouth, whichever diameter you measured earlier.
- Run your sweep (adjust volume and retry if clipping occurs).
- Measure and write down your woofer's effective radiating diameter/area. You can set your ruler or measuring tape starting and ending at roughly halfway through the woofer's surround. Important: this is not the woofer's spec-sheet diameter. A 6.5" woofer typically only has an effective diameter of ~5".
- Set the microphone as close as possible to the center of the woofer, leaving just enough of a gap to clear the woofer's excursion. Technically, the microphone should be about 0.05x the woofer's effective diameter, about 0.25" for a 6.5" woofer with a 5" effective diameter. But you can usually just eyeball it.
- Without touching the volume control, run your sweep. The woofer should be measured at the same source volume as the port.
Just to give you an idea, this picture shows how close to the woofer the microphone was when I measured the
JBL L82.
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Now that we have our two measurements, we need to reduce the port's SPL to match the woofer's.
The 'proper' way, as noted in Jeff Bagby's
whitepaper, is to follow this formula if both port and woofer and circular: 20 Log ([port diameter]/[woofer effective diameter]). If one of them is not circular, you can use this generalized formula by calculating the area: 10 Log ([port area]/woofer effective area]).
The 'easy' way, which works just as well 95% of the time, is to simply eyeball it. Just adjust the port's frequency response until it aligns with the woofer's low-frequency tail, usually the region below 20Hz. You don't even need to measure the area of the port and woofer this way, although I still recommend going through all the steps just in case. This method is also useful when the port or woofer isn't circular, when calculating the precise area becomes more tricky.
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To adjust the port's SPL, go Controls>Measurement actions and then select the port's measurement. Change the SPL offset until the port's low-end tail matches the woofer's. Note the SPL offset value, but I recommend you
don't need to add the offset to the data just yet — this is just to figure out how much we need to adjust the port. We will add the two responses correctly next. If you want, you can write down the required SPL offset in the measurement notes on the left of the main REW window.
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Whether you calculate the adjustment or eyeball it, next go to Controls>Alignment tool, select the port and woofer measurements, and change the port's gain to the correct SPL offset. You should see a preview of the summed response, and you can mess around with the gain and delay if you want to see how that affects things. Then tap on 'Aligned sum' to add them up.
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The resulting response, seen above in white, will have an exaggerated bass. This is because we need to correct our nearfield measurements for
baffle step. There are many ways to do this, but we will use
Jeff Bagby's Diffraction & Boundary Simulator, as IMO it is the easiest.
Enter the speaker and woofer's specs into the simulator (sorry non-Americans, the simulator uses imperial units). Don't worry
too much about being perfectly precise, but for the 'speaker piston diameter,' remember this is the effective diameter. Again, a 6.5-inch woofer typically has a 5-inch pistonic region.
You will see a handy preview of the predicted correction for the nearfield response.
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Once complete, tap on 'Save Baffle Driffaction.' You can then import (Ctrl+I) or drag and drop the resulting file right into the REW window.
From here we just go to Controls > Trace Arithmetic and select our Aligned Sum and the correction we just made, and set the operation to A*B. Tap generate, and you'll get the corrected response.
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The corrected response will have less exaggerated bass, usually down by 4-6 dB by 100Hz.
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This new response can now be aligned with your on-axis response. If all is well, you should see decent agreement between the contour of your corrected nearfield summation and your on-axis measurement. Let's use the 'Measurement actions' tool again to bring down the summation to the SPL of the on-axis (always bring the corrected measurement down to match the on-axis, not the other way around).
Line them up as best you can between roughly 200-800 Hz. Some deviation is fine (remember, our on-axis has lower resolution in the bass), they should just generally match. This time,
do tap on 'add offset to data.'
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Now, we can merge the corrected nearfield response with the on-axis response. This will be done later in VituixCAD if you plan on measuring a full spinorama, but I often like to do a preview first in REW anyway.
Go back to Trace Arithmetic, select your on-axis response under field A, and your corrected nearfield response in B. Then select Merge B to A as your operation and choose the frequency roughly where the curves best line up. I recommend selecting the 'blend' function on, this will smooth out the transition within 1/3 of an octave. It just looks a little nicer.
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And voilà! We now have an on-axis response that should be pretty close to an anechoic result.
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As has been demonstrated a few times on this forum, getting
perfectly consistent bass results among different measurement techniques, even with trusted methods like the Klippel NFS, anechoic chambers, and ground plane, can be difficult. So don't fret too much if your results don't line up 100%. Our goal is to get 'close enough,' as the bass response will be altered dramatically by the room anyway!
Some more notes you might find useful:
- It is important that you measure the smallest sound source first because it will appear loudest to the microphone. If you measure the woofer before the port, you may find the port measurements clipping at your chosen volume.
- Ideally, the port and woofer should be measured at the same 1-meter SPL as your on-axis, but you might find this is too loud when the microphone is so close to the sound sources. For passive speakers, the bass response will rarely vary dramatically at different SPLs, so just use the loudest SPL you can get away with.
- But keep the above in mind if measuring a speaker with DSP, which may have a response that varies significantly at different SPLs. You could also try changing the gain on your Umik-1.
- If a speaker has multiple identical woofers, ports, or radiators (and you're sure they cover the same frequencies) you can simply add 6dB for each additional unit rather than taking an additional measurement.
- Some DSP speakers, like the D&D 8C and the Buchardt A500, have different timing between different drive units. For example, on the D&D 8C, the rear subwoofer units actually fire before the front woofer and tweeter, leading to summations that seem off. For this, you can mess around with the delay settings in the alignment tool until the measurement looks correct. Often times with such time alignment, the delay may simply be roughly equal to the difference in distance between the drivers.
- If you have doubts about the accuracy of your summation, you can roughly confirm it by measuring the speaker from a few close distances, say 1 or 2 feet. At this point, your room will have an influence on the measurements, but you should see the general trends line up decently.
- For 3+ way speakers, the 'eyeball it' method gets trickier, so you might just want to do the math.
- On the other hand, sealed speakers are easy-peasy. All you need to do is measure the woofer and do baffle step correction.
- The nearfield response can sometimes show low-frequency resonances, but they don't always show up quite the way they would in an anechoic or ground plane measurement. So keep that in mind that it still doesn't quite perfectly capture measurements in this region.
- If the woofer has a phase plug, or other unusual design, just get as close to the center as you can. If the woofer has a permanent grille, I usually put the microphone flush with the grille, although you should see if the grille is removable without damaging the speaker first.
- If you want to be as accurate as possible, you can try to apply baffle step correction to the woofers and ports individually and then add them up. In my experience, the difference is so tiny that it's usually not worth the extra hassle. On the other hand, it does allow you to see a more accurate preview when using the alignment tool, which is nice.
I know, I know, this is all very long, but it's a lot more tedious than it is difficult. Once you've done it a couple of times, manipulating the data doesn't take long at all; It's only the measurement setup that really takes that much time.