How do I connect my subwoofer to my active speakers?

[stickspike]

I have some Fenris A55 powered speakers and a REL Quake is on the way (so I'd like to get a cable to connect them once it gets here). The Fenris has L/R pre-out, and the REL has PC( I assume 3.5mm jack), single LFE and their HI level connection thing. I assume the best way for me is to connect it to the LFE port, right?

Should I use a Y cable from L/R pre-out to the LFE , or does L/R not matter and I only need a regular RCA cable going from either of them to the LFE? What I mean is: if I connect the Left pre-out port to the single LFE port on the subwoofer, would that mean the subwoofer only plays the left channel audio? Thanks!!

 

[Chrispy]

I would use a converter cable, 2 male rcas to 3.5mm stereo type, for the "pc" nput ; this would allow the sub to sum the signal to mono from stereo. While most bass is mono already, you could lose information just using L or R. The LFE input is assumed to be mono. The high level connection wouldn't be a particular option for powered speakers. Do your speakers have a low pass/high pass setting to use a sub with?

 

[LTig]

Usually subs have separate left and right inputs and sum the signals internally so use them both. The LFE input is only for AVRs.

 

[stickspike]

Usually subs have separate left and right inputs and sum the signals internally so use them both. The LFE input is only for AVRs.

https://imgur.com/a/ow56Bmo

here's pictures of the backsides of both units. so I guess I have to connect to the PC port

 

[Chrispy]

Usually subs have separate left and right inputs and sum the signals internally so use them both. The LFE input is only for AVRs.

This sub only has one rca input, an "lfe". Can't say I've ever seen a proper sub with a 3.5mm "pc" input....but then I don't think much about Rel

 

[stickspike]

I would use a converter cable, 2 male rcas to 3.5mm stereo type, for the "pc" nput ; this would allow the sub to sum the signal to mono from stereo. While most bass is mono already, you could lose information just using L or R. The LFE input is assumed to be mono. The high level connection wouldn't be a particular option for powered speakers. Do your speakers have a low pass/high pass setting to use a sub with?

Thanks for the info! No, my speakers don't have low pass/high pass setting

 

[kemmler3D]

+1 that PC input makes the most sense. LFE is also (IIRC) spec'd at a different level than normal stereo audio so just putting the pre-out to the LFE may not work as expected.

 

[LTig]

here's pictures of the backsides of both units. so I guess I have to connect to the PC port

Yes.

 

[Berwhale]

I have a REL Quake, i've never noticed the PC input (I use it in a 5.1 setup with an AVR). The PC input looks like the one to use...

REL Acoustics Quake user manual (English - 25 pages)

Manual REL Acoustics Quake. View the REL Acoustics Quake manual for free or ask your question to other REL Acoustics Quake owners.

www.manuals.co.uk

 

[stickspike]

I have a REL Quake, i've never noticed the PC input (I use it in a 5.1 setup with an AVR). The PC input looks like the one to use...

REL Acoustics Quake user manual (English - 25 pages)

Manual REL Acoustics Quake. View the REL Acoustics Quake manual for free or ask your question to other REL Acoustics Quake owners.

www.manuals.co.uk

very useful manual. Thank you!

 

[LTig]

Always download and study the manual before you hit the buy button!

 

[OldHvyMec]

The deal with many of the REL sub plates you have to wire them differently for certain class d amps. I can say this about REL, they have nice paint.
What is a 6 or 8 pack up to now? Look impressive.

 

[Chrispy]

The deal with many of the REL sub plates you have to wire them differently for certain class d amps. I can say this about REL, they have nice paint.
What is a 6 or 8 pack up to now? Look impressive.

Why would a different amp affect the sub amp connected via pre-out?

 

[OldHvyMec]

affect the sub amp connected via pre-out?

Pre out no. But via High level. They show how to wire it in the instructions. I can't remember which amp it affect either, the plate on the
sub or the class d running the mains.

I was never a fan because the the older subs didn't have a slot for the passive. The sealed units fixed that. But an open bottom sub weather driven
or passive is 80s tech. You can certainly feel the bass through the floor. The problem it it is at a different time than the sub drivers and the load of the
room. The sound can turn out to be a bit of a BLUR or smeared until you actually hear it slot loaded and decoupled. No spike either.
REL hasn't quite learned that decoupling speakers and components has a REAL benefit. Not a REL problem from using spikes.

I've enclosed at least 20 of the early models. A butt plate works for a radial pattern on the bottom. It's not my favorite but at least you can decouple
the cabinet with the plate added. Air ride, springs, or pods.

Enjoy in any case.

 

[Chrispy]

Pre out no. But via High level. They show how to wire it in the instructions. I can't remember which amp it affect either, the plate on the
sub or the class d running the mains.

I was never a fan because the the older subs didn't have a slot for the passive. The sealed units fixed that. But an open bottom sub weather driven
or passive is 80s tech. You can certainly feel the bass through the floor. The problem it it is at a different time than the sub drivers and the load of the
room. The sound can turn out to be a bit of a BLUR or smeared until you actually hear it slot loaded and decoupled. No spike either.
REL hasn't quite learned that decoupling speakers and components has a REAL benefit. Not a REL problem from using spikes.

I've enclosed at least 20 of the early models. A butt plate works for a radial pattern on the bottom. It's not my favorite but at least you can decouple
the cabinet with the plate added. Air ride, springs, or pods.

Enjoy in any case.

OP is using pre-outs and powered loudspeakers, so just isn't applicable. I have no idea what a slot for a passive even means.

 

[OldHvyMec]

I understand now, thanks!

REL used to use an open bottom sub with the Passive Radiator in the bottom. By enclosing the base and adding a slot in the direction you want
the sub is a LOT more manageable. I got away from bottom firing anything, without a slot a long time ago. Mid 80s I think. Noises in the kitchen
and in the basement behind kids and speakers. I mounted EVERYTHING in my HOUSE that made noise on "pods, springs, or air ride" KIDS!

SPIKES do not work for ALL vibration. Ask REL what they think about vibration and their thoughts on how to control it. You will know in and
instant they are DEAF... Way to much loud bass I'm afraid.

EX: You ever see a stationary engine mounted on spikes? A spike would never work or stand up. I look to what I know that works outside of
audio. It's strange I've worked with a lot of sound engineers, FEW didn't know about decoupling but they were trying to keep freeway noise
out of a casino usually. By design they keep the noise of the slots where you can hear them though. I think they amplified the noise in some
cases.

 

[Chrispy]

I understand now, thanks!

REL used to use an open bottom sub with the Passive Radiator in the bottom. By enclosing the base and adding a slot in the direction you want
the sub is a LOT more manageable. I got away from bottom firing anything, without a slot a long time ago. Mid 80s I think. Noises in the kitchen
and in the basement behind kids and speakers. I mounted EVERYTHING in my HOUSE that made noise on "pods, springs, or air ride" KIDS!

SPIKES do not work for ALL vibration. Ask REL what they think about vibration and their thoughts on how to control it. You will know in and
instant they are DEAF... Way to much loud bass I'm afraid.

EX: You ever see a stationary engine mounted on spikes? A spike would never work or stand up. I look to what I know that works outside of
audio. It's strange I've worked with a lot of sound engineers, FEW didn't know about decoupling but they were trying to keep freeway noise
out of a casino usually. By design they keep the noise of the slots where you can hear them though. I think they amplified the noise in some
cases.

Ah, now I also know what you mean with a passive radiator. Spikes are possibly helpful on carpet.

 

[OldHvyMec]

Spikes are possibly helpful on carpet.

Well, I can say this, that is a pointed subject. BUT, the rattling plates in the neighbors house say otherwise. I'm NOT kidding. I had to help a
friend out that was being taken to court behind noise complaints and compliance. He had a production studio in a 4 car garage. It was in my
neighborhood and my neighbors were suing Mr Rock and Roll. You could feel the BASS for over 1/2 a block. The neighbors just wanted the plates
to quit rattling in their china cabinets. LOL It was pretty easy. I used inner tubes for the bass bins and band passed at 40hz through the week and 30
on the weekends. Still cost 25K for lawyers and HE had to pay court cost too.. 1990s. The house did burn down 2 years ago. Coincidence?

 

[thecheapseats]

Well, I can say this, that is a pointed subject. BUT, the rattling plates in the neighbors house say otherwise. I'm NOT kidding. I had to help a
friend out that was being taken to court behind noise complaints and compliance. He had a production studio in a 4 car garage. It was in my
neighborhood and my neighbors were suing Mr Rock and Roll. You could feel the BASS for over 1/2 a block. The neighbors just wanted the plates
to quit rattling in their china cabinets. LOL It was pretty easy. I used inner tubes for the bass bins and band passed at 40hz through the week and 30
on the weekends. Still cost 25K for lawyers and HE had to pay court cost too.. 1990s. The house did burn down 2 years ago. Coincidence?

ok - that was funny... the best stories are the true stories... that made my day for comedy - thanks...

 

[Timcognito]

Why not use the LFE on your speakers? That's what it's for