Natogarciajr
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there’s no specs anywhere
ISony acquired Wega in the 1970s and used the name on their TVs for a while. Whether Sony sent Sony products to Europe with the Wega badge on, I'd have to check, but that unit is decidedly EU construction.
from wikipedia:
"WEGA, pronounced "Vega", was founded as Wuerttembergische Radio-Gesellschaft mbh in Stuttgart, Germany in the year 1923. In 1975, it was acquired by Sony Corporation. They were then known throughout Europe for stylish and high-quality stereo equipment, designed by Hartmut Esslinger, amongst others. Sony continued to use the WEGA brand until 2005, when liquid-crystal displays superseded the company's Trinitron aperture grille-based CRT models."
The amplifier pictured in Ray's link show construction using a mixture of European and Japanese components, and a typical construction type from I would say about 1976-7, so under Sony's control early on.
thanks for your helpIt's certainly not 100W/ch. based on the bodgy EU spec sheet, I'd put it around 55w/ch at 8ohms.
IMO, it is not worth USD$200 in that condition. Maybe $50 tops if you can see past all the damage. I would pass and wait for something better.
The Marantz 1180DC is a lovely amplifier. I have a few from that series including the 1152DC which is essentially the same apart from a few watts between them and a couple of 'peak' LEDs.
Both the amps have double paralleled TO-3 high powered outputs, big heatsink and a large power supply with a heavily ventilated metal casework design.
There are some common issues with the unit which will need to be looked at:
The phono and input board is mounted front to back and trackside up. Because of that, dust and environmental detritus lands directly through the vents onto the high gain section of the phono preamp. Often, the stage will oscillate and self destruct, taking out two dropper resistors and a transistor or two. The board needs to be carefuly cleaned and de-fluxed in that area for long term reliability.
The Nippon Chemicon caps on the boards are also prone to failure.
There are also a few STV (varistor diodes) which can be touchy in their old age on the power amp boards.
The push buttons for the filters, tone and muting are silver plated contacts over copper and exposed to the air. They become very noisy and a simple squirt with contact cleaner is not good enough. You need to dismantle the front and remove the entire PCB and carefully dismantle and clean each exposed slide switch. (the push buttons actuate a type of slide- you'll see what I mean).
There are also coupling caps in the preamp stage that can become leaky (passing DC) and cause audible 'cracks' and premature DC protector tripping.
The three tone sliders also get noisy- they can be tamed with deoxit or CRC 2-26.
The performance of those amplifiers is excellent. I can attest to that. All the above issues are minor, but when combined, they appear to be a lot worse than they are. I can help you step through any work it needs.
Cheers.
ThanksThe Marantz 1180DC is a lovely amplifier. I have a few from that series including the 1152DC which is essentially the same apart from a few watts between them and a couple of 'peak' LEDs.
Both the amps have double paralleled TO-3 high powered outputs, big heatsink and a large power supply with a heavily ventilated metal casework design.
There are some common issues with the unit which will need to be looked at:
The phono and input board is mounted front to back and trackside up. Because of that, dust and environmental detritus lands directly through the vents onto the high gain section of the phono preamp. Often, the stage will oscillate and self destruct, taking out two dropper resistors and a transistor or two. The board needs to be carefuly cleaned and de-fluxed in that area for long term reliability.
The Nippon Chemicon caps on the boards are also prone to failure.
There are also a few STV (varistor diodes) which can be touchy in their old age on the power amp boards.
The push buttons for the filters, tone and muting are silver plated contacts over copper and exposed to the air. They become very noisy and a simple squirt with contact cleaner is not good enough. You need to dismantle the front and remove the entire PCB and carefully dismantle and clean each exposed slide switch. (the push buttons actuate a type of slide- you'll see what I mean).
There are also coupling caps in the preamp stage that can become leaky (passing DC) and cause audible 'cracks' and premature DC protector tripping.
The three tone sliders also get noisy- they can be tamed with deoxit or CRC 2-26.
The performance of those amplifiers is excellent. I can attest to that. All the above issues are minor, but when combined, they appear to be a lot worse than they are. I can help you step through any work it needs.
Cheers.
The Marantz 1180DC is a lovely amplifier. I have a few from that series including the 1152DC which is essentially the same apart from a few watts between them and a couple of 'peak' LEDs.
Both the amps have double paralleled TO-3 high powered outputs, big heatsink and a large power supply with a heavily ventilated metal casework design.
There are some common issues with the unit which will need to be looked at:
The phono and input board is mounted front to back and trackside up. Because of that, dust and environmental detritus lands directly through the vents onto the high gain section of the phono preamp. Often, the stage will oscillate and self destruct, taking out two dropper resistors and a transistor or two. The board needs to be carefuly cleaned and de-fluxed in that area for long term reliability.
The Nippon Chemicon caps on the boards are also prone to failure.
There are also a few STV (varistor diodes) which can be touchy in their old age on the power amp boards.
The push buttons for the filters, tone and muting are silver plated contacts over copper and exposed to the air. They become very noisy and a simple squirt with contact cleaner is not good enough. You need to dismantle the front and remove the entire PCB and carefully dismantle and clean each exposed slide switch. (the push buttons actuate a type of slide- you'll see what I mean).
There are also coupling caps in the preamp stage that can become leaky (passing DC) and cause audible 'cracks' and premature DC protector tripping.
The three tone sliders also get noisy- they can be tamed with deoxit or CRC 2-26.
The performance of those amplifiers is excellent. I can attest to that. All the above issues are minor, but when combined, they appear to be a lot worse than they are. I can help you step through any work it needs.
Cheers.