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Does it make a big difference to install a DSP module to car stereo?
- Thread starter WolfCook
- Start date
DSP will at the least give you a awesome EQ and if done right will give you tri-amp'd or better all around sound. I googled rockchip PX6 hexa core car radio and received many results. Can you narrow down for me what exactly you are using?
- Thread Starter
- #3
It is a Chinese brand. Not sure if you have hear it or not, it is XTRONS pq7090b which bought online from Ebay. It runs fast but just no DSP.
Some friends around me have some other car stereos with DSP, that is why I'd like to ask. I am not an audiophile, but I'd like to spend a few more dollars if it can really enhance music quality. Maybe I can buy one DSP module online and DIY install it myself. Do you have any suggestions about a DSP module and is it hard to DIY install it?
Some friends around me have some other car stereos with DSP, that is why I'd like to ask. I am not an audiophile, but I'd like to spend a few more dollars if it can really enhance music quality. Maybe I can buy one DSP module online and DIY install it myself. Do you have any suggestions about a DSP module and is it hard to DIY install it?
So you want EQ @ each speaker x 4 speakers? with one 4 ch amp? Is that good? If so I think if memory serves me correct this https://www.minidsp.com/ stuff has components that will do that. 2 ch input 4 ch output DSP.
Helix is one of the best for cars. Minidsp 8x12 with Dirac is also really good.
Dayton dsp 408 is cheap but works
As to your question.
Individual amp channel Time alignment and level matching alone will make a huge difference.
Get into some individual amp channel eq work and it really cleans everything up to have a solid image.
Even factory systems use dsp’s these days.
I use a helix dsp.2 and I know erinh uses a minidsp 8x12 with Dirac. Erin competes in car audio at a very high level, without a dsp, he wouldn’t stand a chance.
I also use a Dayton 408 in my wife’s car and it works well too, just no where near as many options/features that the helix or minidsp have.
Dayton dsp 408 is cheap but works
As to your question.
Individual amp channel Time alignment and level matching alone will make a huge difference.
Get into some individual amp channel eq work and it really cleans everything up to have a solid image.
Even factory systems use dsp’s these days.
I use a helix dsp.2 and I know erinh uses a minidsp 8x12 with Dirac. Erin competes in car audio at a very high level, without a dsp, he wouldn’t stand a chance.
I also use a Dayton 408 in my wife’s car and it works well too, just no where near as many options/features that the helix or minidsp have.
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- Thread Starter
- #9
Thanks, this is an external DSP, right? What I was thinking about is a DSP chip which can be installed on the motherboard of XTRONS Android head unit. So this DSP work standalone without the need of inserting it into the head unit?
- Thread Starter
- #10
Thanks for sharing, I will take a look at the helix dsp, Dayton dsp 408 too.
Also check out the JL Audio vxi amps. Theyre low noise amps with built in dsp with time delay, phase, and PEQ. Easily configured with an app u can run on ur phone or tablet.
All dsp solutions are going to require a way to take measurements and eq to a target curve. I highly recommend the audiofrog mic tuning kit.
You could also consider an automated solution (this is the fastest way to get great results). I believe someone slapped in a JBL MS-8 into your E90 with stock speakers (+ sub) and won a car audio competition some time ago. I think the MS-8 is discontinued now. Alpine has an Imprint solution that is similar.
All dsp solutions are going to require a way to take measurements and eq to a target curve. I highly recommend the audiofrog mic tuning kit.
You could also consider an automated solution (this is the fastest way to get great results). I believe someone slapped in a JBL MS-8 into your E90 with stock speakers (+ sub) and won a car audio competition some time ago. I think the MS-8 is discontinued now. Alpine has an Imprint solution that is similar.
ROOSKIE
Major Contributor
What I will add to this conversation is that I was surprised how my car stereo uses less DSP manipulation than I originally thought I would need.
I use the Dayton DSP-408 which is likely all most folks will ever need in a car.
I get the most out of it's active crossovers and the PEQ. These are indispensable. Time alignment and those kind of goodies are really of zero help for me due to the fact that my stereo is designed to sound equally good to both front passengers.
I never want my GF to have second class sound.*
*You can save several presents so one can build a fully time aligned system for the driver and then switch to a preset with different parameters when another person is in the front passenger seat. I did not set up a driver only preset but I do have presents for windows up and down, stuff like that.
What gave my car the sound I wanted most was moving the subwoofer up front, putting the front stage on the dash, using high order slopes, and using zero rear fill.
Then next using PEQ to adjust the response. (wow does this get tricky in car, so use a moving mic method to gather frequency data - a stationary mic is worthless)
The only time alignment is to add some delay to sub.
Everything sounds like it playing on my dashboard like with a pair of stereo home speakers, there is no sense of sounds coming from either mid-bass nor the sub.
On the dash are 3/4" tweeters & 3" drivers (playing 380hrz up), in the doors 6.5" mids (120-380hrz) and in between the front seats an 8" woofer. (120hrz down - doesn't really hit much below 30hrz but oh well)
I use the Dayton DSP-408 which is likely all most folks will ever need in a car.
I get the most out of it's active crossovers and the PEQ. These are indispensable. Time alignment and those kind of goodies are really of zero help for me due to the fact that my stereo is designed to sound equally good to both front passengers.
I never want my GF to have second class sound.*
*You can save several presents so one can build a fully time aligned system for the driver and then switch to a preset with different parameters when another person is in the front passenger seat. I did not set up a driver only preset but I do have presents for windows up and down, stuff like that.
What gave my car the sound I wanted most was moving the subwoofer up front, putting the front stage on the dash, using high order slopes, and using zero rear fill.
Then next using PEQ to adjust the response. (wow does this get tricky in car, so use a moving mic method to gather frequency data - a stationary mic is worthless)
The only time alignment is to add some delay to sub.
Everything sounds like it playing on my dashboard like with a pair of stereo home speakers, there is no sense of sounds coming from either mid-bass nor the sub.
On the dash are 3/4" tweeters & 3" drivers (playing 380hrz up), in the doors 6.5" mids (120-380hrz) and in between the front seats an 8" woofer. (120hrz down - doesn't really hit much below 30hrz but oh well)
@ROOSKIE,
A couple things the dayton is missing is all pass filters and center channel up mixing, you would need those to get a true two seat tune.
No one has a true center channel algorithm any more. JBL ms8 did and an old alpine did.
Helix has "real center" on their newer DSP's but this just mixes the R+L with some other fancy stuff. With that and all pass you can get a very solid two seat tune though.
A couple things the dayton is missing is all pass filters and center channel up mixing, you would need those to get a true two seat tune.
No one has a true center channel algorithm any more. JBL ms8 did and an old alpine did.
Helix has "real center" on their newer DSP's but this just mixes the R+L with some other fancy stuff. With that and all pass you can get a very solid two seat tune though.
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