DACs with enough voltage for Power amplifiers - what should I be looking for?

[DirtyBumOak510]

What DAC's (under $700) have enough voltage to act as a pre-amp for a power amplifier? Volume control is likely a must unless I add one separately.

I'm posting this in the newbie forum because I'm a newbie and there are parts of this question that I don't understand - otherwise, I'd just go and look them up. Is it just as simple as matching the input sensitivity of an amplifier to the "maximum output" of a DAC? Where and how does impedance factor in? What part of the spec sheets for DACs or Amplifiers should I be looking at? For example, Schiit Bifrost says "Maximum Output: 2.0V RMS single-ended and 4.0V RMS balanced",

For clarification, I'm talking about a DAC that could power a powered amplifier meant for a speaker, not headphones. I'm looking to bypass the pre-amp and go direct from DAC to Amplifier.

Background: I'm starting a system from scratch. It is based on speakers which I recently purchased, Philharmonic BMRs. They were way out of my league/budget but I ended up getting them for a price I couldn't pass up. Ideally, I'd like to have a proper system in place. Ideally, I don't want to throw money at components that I'm going to upgrade later, I'd rather just get it over with now. That said ... I'm on a pretty tight budget. One way of buying some time, and dealing with a pre-amp later, is to buy a good DAC, and a good amplifier, and to bypass the pre-amp purchase for the time being. This would involve having a DAC that puts out enough voltage to feed the amplifier. The amplifiers I have been looking at are typically NC252MP, NC502MP, Hypex500, or Purifi based amplifiers from VTV, Nord, March, Etc. The problem I've encountered is that if I get a March Purifi amp, or a Buckeye NC502, or a Nord Hypex500, then I need a pre-amp ... and pre-amps aren't cheap. The cheapest one I've seen that seems to be well regarded (subjectively if not objectively according to the #s) is the Freya+ from Schiit. That's $900+tax/shipping. That quickly puts using a 252, 502 or purifi amplifier into the multi thousand dollar realm. Nord has an Integrated amplifier Purifi, or integrated amplifier Hypex500 but its $1800. BUT! If I could buy a good DAC (one that I wouldn't need to replace later) that could power the amplifier, that could give me a year (only listening to digital) to save up for a pre-amp and phono pre-amp.

The DAC's I'd been researching are the Topping choices, specifically the D50s because it says it can act as a pre-amp for power amplifiers, and it has a couple of things on my need list (Optical IN specifically, and volume control). In order to be a DAC+Amp system, the DAC would need a volume control, which the D50s does. Some of the other offerings from Topping seem to fit the bill as well. The others I'd looked at were the RME ADI-2 FS (above budget), and Khadas Tone Board (March Dac1, Nord Easy Stream) - but these typically don't have volume control. I suppose volume control could be bypassed with a Schiit SYS for only $50 which wouldn't be too big of a hit.

The reason I'm on a quest for the right components is because I don't like re-selling "band-aid" equipment (at a loss), or hodge podging an OK setup. I'd rather buy a few of the right components and add the others as I can afford them. The Pre-amp and Phono-Preamp will be a major addition, but I could live without them for a while if I had Optical Input and enough voltage with RCA/XLR output to feed a good amplifier. If I can't come up with a solution ... I think I'm just going to have to live with a Stereo Receiver for a year or two while I save up for the right components. This would lead me to the new Outlaw rr2160Mkii, which would have a phono-preamp, enough AB amplification to drive my speakers, pre-outs for subwoofers, a Burr Brown PCM1792a DAC, optical inputs, RCA inputs/outputs out the wazoo, and one remote that rules them all .... it checks all the boxes.... but its not a Schiit Freya+ with a Khadas Tone board DAC, with a nice good budget phono preamp (Schiit Mani?) driving Stereo Purifi Amplifiers ...

So ... uhhhhh.... What DAC can power a Purifi stereo amp? (" Input Sensitivity: 8ohm 2.52Vrms 10.24dBu")

 

[noname]

I'm currently using Topping D90 and I connect it directly to power amp by using XLR Cables. I adjust the volume by using digital volume control on DAC without any issues. I think you can use Topping D50 and connect to your power amp without any problems as well.

 

[Kuppenbender]

I was in the same boat as you (‘significantly’ priced speakers - PMC TwentyFive.21, wanted DAC and power amp to match).

I went with the Soncoz SGD1 and an Audiophonics NC252MP with XLR cables. Very happy with this set up in a modestly sized room (about 10’ x 20’/3.5m x 7m).

Currently trying to get my head round room correction with Daphile, FIR filters and REW. If I had more money to spare, I might have got a DAC with room correction software like the Minidsp SHD. Dirac Live sounds. A lot easier to do.

 

[EdW]

What DAC's (under $700) have enough voltage to act as a pre-amp for a power amplifier? Volume control is likely a must unless I add one separately.

I'm posting this in the newbie forum because I'm a newbie and there are parts of this question that I don't understand - otherwise, I'd just go and look them up. Is it just as simple as matching the input sensitivity of an amplifier to the "maximum output" of a DAC? Where and how does impedance factor in? What part of the spec sheets for DACs or Amplifiers should I be looking at? For example, Schiit Bifrost says "Maximum Output: 2.0V RMS single-ended and 4.0V RMS balanced",

For clarification, I'm talking about a DAC that could power a powered amplifier meant for a speaker, not headphones. I'm looking to bypass the pre-amp and go direct from DAC to Amplifier.

Background: I'm starting a system from scratch. It is based on speakers which I recently purchased, Philharmonic BMRs. They were way out of my league/budget but I ended up getting them for a price I couldn't pass up. Ideally, I'd like to have a proper system in place. Ideally, I don't want to throw money at components that I'm going to upgrade later, I'd rather just get it over with now. That said ... I'm on a pretty tight budget. One way of buying some time, and dealing with a pre-amp later, is to buy a good DAC, and a good amplifier, and to bypass the pre-amp purchase for the time being. This would involve having a DAC that puts out enough voltage to feed the amplifier. The amplifiers I have been looking at are typically NC252MP, NC502MP, Hypex500, or Purifi based amplifiers from VTV, Nord, March, Etc. The problem I've encountered is that if I get a March Purifi amp, or a Buckeye NC502, or a Nord Hypex500, then I need a pre-amp ... and pre-amps aren't cheap. The cheapest one I've seen that seems to be well regarded (subjectively if not objectively according to the #s) is the Freya+ from Schiit. That's $900+tax/shipping. That quickly puts using a 252, 502 or purifi amplifier into the multi thousand dollar realm. Nord has an Integrated amplifier Purifi, or integrated amplifier Hypex500 but its $1800. BUT! If I could buy a good DAC (one that I wouldn't need to replace later) that could power the amplifier, that could give me a year (only listening to digital) to save up for a pre-amp and phono pre-amp.

The DAC's I'd been researching are the Topping choices, specifically the D50s because it says it can act as a pre-amp for power amplifiers, and it has a couple of things on my need list (Optical IN specifically, and volume control). In order to be a DAC+Amp system, the DAC would need a volume control, which the D50s does. Some of the other offerings from Topping seem to fit the bill as well. The others I'd looked at were the RME ADI-2 FS (above budget), and Khadas Tone Board (March Dac1, Nord Easy Stream) - but these typically don't have volume control. I suppose volume control could be bypassed with a Schiit SYS for only $50 which wouldn't be too big of a hit.

The reason I'm on a quest for the right components is because I don't like re-selling "band-aid" equipment (at a loss), or hodge podging an OK setup. I'd rather buy a few of the right components and add the others as I can afford them. The Pre-amp and Phono-Preamp will be a major addition, but I could live without them for a while if I had Optical Input and enough voltage with RCA/XLR output to feed a good amplifier. If I can't come up with a solution ... I think I'm just going to have to live with a Stereo Receiver for a year or two while I save up for the right components. This would lead me to the new Outlaw rr2160Mkii, which would have a phono-preamp, enough AB amplification to drive my speakers, pre-outs for subwoofers, a Burr Brown PCM1792a DAC, optical inputs, RCA inputs/outputs out the wazoo, and one remote that rules them all .... it checks all the boxes.... but its not a Schiit Freya+ with a Khadas Tone board DAC, with a nice good budget phono preamp (Schiit Mani?) driving Stereo Purifi Amplifiers ...

So ... uhhhhh.... What DAC can power a Purifi stereo amp? (" Input Sensitivity: 8ohm 2.52Vrms 10.24dBu")

You may have slightly over estimated the drive needed for the March Purifi amplifiers. The March website suggests a nominal voltage gain of 26.5dB (custom gain settings may be requested), but working with the 26.5dB figure we see that 1.89V rms input is needed to achieve 200W of output Into 8 ohms.
For around $700 you are close to being able to afford the Topping D90 (non MQA) which can output 4v rms on its balanced XLR which is the right way to drive the Purifi amp anyway

 

[boXem]

What you need to do is:
1. find the sensitivity of the amplifier: NC122NC, NC252NC are below 2V, NC502NC is between 2 and 3V, Purifi depends from the buffer
2. find the maximum output voltage of the DAC: all RCA DACs are outputing 2V easily, XLR output 4 to 5V with pro oriented DACs (RME, Benchmark) outputing a lot more
3. calculate sensitivity divided by output voltage. Result must be as close as possible from 1 while staying below 1. If it is above one, that means that the DAC will clip before the amplifier, which may cause DC to enter your speakers.

 

[EdW]

What you need to do is:
1. find the sensitivity of the amplifier: NC122NC, NC252NC are below 2V, NC502NC is between 2 and 3V, Purifi depends from the buffer
2. find the maximum output voltage of the DAC: all RCA DACs are outputing 2V easily, XLR output 4 to 5V with pro oriented DACs (RME, Benchmark) outputing a lot more
3. calculate sensitivity divided by output voltage. Result must be as close as possible from 1 while staying below 1. If it is above one, that means that the DAC will clip before the amplifier, which may cause DC to enter your speakers.

You’ve given the comprehensive analysis here! I think you would be unlucky if the DAC outputted a distorted waveform when set to max volume. It is usually the case that the max volume is the same as the output of the DAC in DAC mode which should be completely undistorted except perhaps in the case of very brief inter sample overs.

 

[boXem]

You’ve given the comprehensive analysis here! I think you would be unlucky if the DAC outputted a distorted waveform when set to max volume. It is usually the case that the max volume is the same as the output of the DAC in DAC mode which should be completely undistorted except perhaps in the case of very brief inter sample overs.

Right
But this "technique" can also be applied to preamps that will hapilly clip, and since I like to keep things simple, I chose the universal rule "the clipping one must be the amplifier"

 

[EdW]

Right
But this "technique" can also be applied to preamps that will hapilly clip, and since I like to keep things simple, I chose the universal rule "the clipping one must be the amplifier"

Absolutely right - even better if the amplifier doesn’t overload at all since there is less risk to the tweeters. Perhaps an Arthur 3409/N2 is called for here
I think the real challenge will actually be in the choice of preamp and a compatible RIAA stage. I had hoped the Topping PRE90 would fit the bill but unfortunately there may have been insufficient consideration given to inputs from sources other than DACs

 

[Χ Ξ Σ]

Some newer DACs from Gustard and SMSL have 5~6Vrms XLR outputs. That should be enough.

 

[abdo123]

What you need to do is:
1. find the sensitivity of the amplifier: NC122NC, NC252NC are below 2V, NC502NC is between 2 and 3V, Purifi depends from the buffer
2. find the maximum output voltage of the DAC: all RCA DACs are outputing 2V easily, XLR output 4 to 5V with pro oriented DACs (RME, Benchmark) outputing a lot more
3. calculate sensitivity divided by output voltage. Result must be as close as possible from 1 while staying below 1. If it is above one, that means that the DAC will clip before the amplifier, which may cause DC to enter your speakers.

‘Input Sensitivity: AKA Rated Output (Vrms)/Rated Gain. Or, 14.3/12. You do the math.’

How would you deduce a value from this? This is what Schiit gives for two of their amps.

 

[abdo123]

What you need to do is:
1. find the sensitivity of the amplifier: NC122NC, NC252NC are below 2V, NC502NC is between 2 and 3V, Purifi depends from the buffer
2. find the maximum output voltage of the DAC: all RCA DACs are outputing 2V easily, XLR output 4 to 5V with pro oriented DACs (RME, Benchmark) outputing a lot more
3. calculate sensitivity divided by output voltage. Result must be as close as possible from 1 while staying below 1. If it is above one, that means that the DAC will clip before the amplifier, which may cause DC to enter your speakers.

Also, a little off-topic. But would an analog signal processor board between the DAC and an amp effect the voltage input of the amp?

Assuming you want to have the best possible SINAD by not doing an analog to digital conversion after the DAC using an off the shelf DSP board.

 

[boXem]

‘Input Sensitivity: AKA Rated Output (Vrms)/Rated Gain. Or, 14.3/12. You do the math.’

How would you deduce a value from this? This is what Schiit gives for two of their amps.

I think it's better to directly ask them

Also, a little off-topic. But would an analog signal processor board between the DAC and an amp effect the voltage input of the amp?

Assuming you want to have the best possible SINAD by not doing an analog to digital conversion after the DAC using an off the shelf DSP board.

The analog signal processor will have it's own max output voltage that you should use for my ratio formula
I don't really know the actual performance of analog signal processors. I agree with your concept of avoiding adding an ADC after the DAC, which is why I consider that DSP should be done before the DAC, in the digital domain.

 

[abdo123]

I think it's better to directly ask them

The analog signal processor will have it's own max output voltage that you should use for my ratio formula
I don't really know the actual performance of analog signal processors. I agree with your concept of avoiding adding an ADC after the DAC, which is why I consider that DSP should be done before the DAC, in the digital domain.

is it possible to do a crossover with DSP without using a multichannel DAC?

Supposedly if i’m very committed to the idea of keeping the DSP in the digital domain.

Sorry again for the off-topic questions.

 

[boXem]

is it possible to do a crossover with DSP without using a multichannel DAC?

Supposedly if i’m very committed to the idea of keeping the DSP in the digital domain.

Sorry again for the off-topic questions.

I had room correction in mind.
For crossover, you need as many analog channels as drivers, so you are right, if it's done in the digital domain, you need a multichannel DAC.
Good 4 channels DACs are easy to find in the pro world (Focusrite, Motu, ...). Main issue is that they miss a remote.

 

[AnalogSteph]

‘Input Sensitivity: AKA Rated Output (Vrms)/Rated Gain. Or, 14.3/12. You do the math.’

How would you deduce a value from this? This is what Schiit gives for two of their amps.

Written less sloppily:
Input sensitivity Vsens [Vrms] = Voltage for rated power output [Vrms] / linear voltage gain
with
Voltage for rated power output Vout,nom = sqrt( R_nom * P_nom )
linear voltage gain Gv = 10^(voltage gain in dB / 20)

Let's populate this for an amplifier: 100 W into 8 ohms nominal, Gv = +29.5 dB.
This gives us Vout,nom = sqrt(8 * 100) Vrms ~= 28.3 Vrms and Gv = 29.85.
Hence Vsens ~= 0.95 Vrms.

Instead of rated power output, you may alternatively also go off power output needed to hit a certain SPL level with your given speakers. For the Philharmonic BMR, mean SPL is about 83 dB @ 1 m for 2.83 V. So it'll hit 103 dB with a 100 wpc amplifier (thus 100 wpc being the minimum I'd recommend; you could go all the way to 500 wpc if you need 110 dB peaks).

A no-frills NC502MP amplifier would have a gain of 25.5 dB according to datasheet. Since the BMR is closer to 4 ohms, let's use the 500 W peak power spec for that. This means that input sensitivity is 2.37 Vrms. A 2 Vrms DAC would be less than 2 dB short of that.

BTW, if the source is some sort of computer, in computer audio interfaces you commonly start seeing maximum output levels around the +16 dBu mark (about 5 Vrms) starting from $150-ish, with balanced outputs no less. If you are cheap, a Focusrite Scarlett Solo ($110-ish?) should basically do the business, at least if - as I assume - its MONITOR level control operates a physical volume pot. The 108 dB DAC dynamic range would be a hair short of what you want otherwise. A MOTU M2 would be the next step up and still is sub-$200 (not sure how long you can still get them though, supply of AKM converters has largely dried up after a factory fire). Otherwise we'd be talking $350-ish or so. Mind you, if you really just need a DAC you might just as well get a cheaper ($199) Schiit Modius at this point...

 

[DirtyBumOak510]

Wow. You guys/gals all rock. That was a major response even before I woke up. I'm think I got the answer I was looking for, which was that a Topping D50s should be able to provide enough voltage (2v) to power a 252, 502, or a Purifi. It will be too much for the NC252mp (1.55v - according to Buckeye) and could cause clipping at high volumes, and will be a little shy for the NC502mp (2.35v - according to Buckeye) and the Purifi (2.52v - according to Nord) and thus I wouldn't be able to get every watt that they have to offer. Is it reasonable to say then that it may be better to pick a NC502 or Purifi because the DAC would NOT be in danger of causing it to clip?

 

[DirtyBumOak510]

1. Instead of rated power output, you may alternatively also go off power output needed to hit a certain SPL level with your given speakers. For the Philharmonic BMR, mean SPL is about 83 dB @ 1 m for 2.83 V. So it'll hit 103 dB with a 100 wpc amplifier (thus 100 wpc being the minimum I'd recommend; you could go all the way to 500 wpc if you need 110 dB peaks).

2. A no-frills NC502MP amplifier would have a gain of 25.5 dB according to datasheet. Since the BMR is closer to 4 ohms, let's use the 500 W peak power spec for that. This means that input sensitivity is 2.37 Vrms. A 2 Vrms DAC would be less than 2 dB short of that.

3. A MOTU M2 would be the next step up and still is sub-$200 (not sure how long you can still get them though, supply of AKM converters has largely dried up after a factory fire). Otherwise we'd be talking $350-ish or so. Mind you, if you really just need a DAC you might just as well get a cheaper ($199) Schiit Modius at this point...

1. One thing to throw into the idea of going off of the power output idea ... ErinsAudioCorner.com's test of the Philharmonic BMR said that "

• Max SPL for 20Hz to 20kHz is approximately 96dB @ 1 meter. The compression threshold was exceeded above this SPL.
• Max SPL for 80Hz to 20kHz is approximately 99dB @ 1 meter. The compression threshold was exceeded above this SPL."

So that means (if my math is right and I'm understanding you right) it would hit 96db @ 56 watts and 99db @ 112 watts. (77.7 db spl (1w/1m). The Scanspeak 8545 woofer (used in the Philharmonic BMR) states that it has a Long-term Max Power (1EC 18.2) of 120w. I'm not sure how that one driver factors in with the crossover, the midrange and the Raal Ribbon in terms of max wattage... In addition to not clipping the amplifier, I also wouldn't want to overdrive the speaker.

2. So does that mean that the 2vrms DAC would be a good choice for the NC502MP because it wouldn't introduce clipping... right?

3. The only issue with the Modius is its lack of volume control. It looks like the Motu M2 does have volume control. I'd been considering some of the offerings from Topping based on their reviews on this site.

I was hoping to type and ask more but I have kids and have to cut this short.

 

[AnalogSteph]

In addition to not clipping the amplifier, I also wouldn't want to overdrive the speaker.

Rest assured that it would complain quite audibly before being damaged. This tends to be obvious to all but the most intoxicated of listeners. Unless you intend to use your system as a party PA, this should be a non-issue.

Also note that speakers are rated for average power, and that an amplifier's maximum average power output with actual music will not generally be anywhere near its rated power. That's because music tends to have a crest factor (ratio of peak to average) much higher than the sine waves used for rating amplifier power... usually at least 6 dB, often around 10 dB, and over 20 dB for very dynamic material.

(BTW, it is possible to overdrive a speaker well short of rated power if it runs into maximum excursion... deep bass response tends to be excursion-limited. It is common to be implementing a highpass filter in active speakers for this reason, and there is nothing keeping you from doing the same in software. Generally cutoff will be chosen in a range where the speaker's response is already taking a nosedive anyway, though it could be as high as above driver self-resonance. Even the former may result in quite a substantial improvement in bass level handling.)

Not wanting to overdrive anything is noble but do make sure you have enough gain even for quiet parts of dynamic recordings. It can't hurt to have your normal listening level at around 30 dB below maximum volume setting.

If you need a volume control on the DAC itself, the Modius isn't suitable indeed.

 

[EdW]

Wow. You guys/gals all rock. That was a major response even before I woke up. I'm think I got the answer I was looking for, which was that a Topping D50s should be able to provide enough voltage (2v) to power a 252, 502, or a Purifi. It will be too much for the NC252mp (1.55v - according to Buckeye) and could cause clipping at high volumes, and will be a little shy for the NC502mp (2.35v - according to Buckeye) and the Purifi (2.52v - according to Nord) and thus I wouldn't be able to get every watt that they have to offer. Is it reasonable to say then that it may be better to pick a NC502 or Purifi because the DAC would NOT be in danger of causing it to clip?

I wouldn’t be too concerned about the risk of overdriving the amplifier, especially when we’re only talking about a dB or two. In fact it might be good to have a little in hand to allow for over quiet recording. You always have the option to turn the volume down if you hear distortion!
Another thing to consider - perhaps check whether the amplifier you are considering purchasing works well with a single ended audio input which is a limitation of the Topping D50s

 

[Scottwhit]

What DAC's (under $700) have enough voltage to act as a pre-amp for a power amplifier? Volume control is likely a must unless I add one separately.

I'm posting this in the newbie forum because I'm a newbie and there are parts of this question that I don't understand - otherwise, I'd just go and look them up. Is it just as simple as matching the input sensitivity of an amplifier to the "maximum output" of a DAC? Where and how does impedance factor in? What part of the spec sheets for DACs or Amplifiers should I be looking at? For example, Schiit Bifrost says "Maximum Output: 2.0V RMS single-ended and 4.0V RMS balanced",

For clarification, I'm talking about a DAC that could power a powered amplifier meant for a speaker, not headphones. I'm looking to bypass the pre-amp and go direct from DAC to Amplifier.

Background: I'm starting a system from scratch. It is based on speakers which I recently purchased, Philharmonic BMRs. They were way out of my league/budget but I ended up getting them for a price I couldn't pass up. Ideally, I'd like to have a proper system in place. Ideally, I don't want to throw money at components that I'm going to upgrade later, I'd rather just get it over with now. That said ... I'm on a pretty tight budget. One way of buying some time, and dealing with a pre-amp later, is to buy a good DAC, and a good amplifier, and to bypass the pre-amp purchase for the time being. This would involve having a DAC that puts out enough voltage to feed the amplifier. The amplifiers I have been looking at are typically NC252MP, NC502MP, Hypex500, or Purifi based amplifiers from VTV, Nord, March, Etc. The problem I've encountered is that if I get a March Purifi amp, or a Buckeye NC502, or a Nord Hypex500, then I need a pre-amp ... and pre-amps aren't cheap. The cheapest one I've seen that seems to be well regarded (subjectively if not objectively according to the #s) is the Freya+ from Schiit. That's $900+tax/shipping. That quickly puts using a 252, 502 or purifi amplifier into the multi thousand dollar realm. Nord has an Integrated amplifier Purifi, or integrated amplifier Hypex500 but its $1800. BUT! If I could buy a good DAC (one that I wouldn't need to replace later) that could power the amplifier, that could give me a year (only listening to digital) to save up for a pre-amp and phono pre-amp.

The DAC's I'd been researching are the Topping choices, specifically the D50s because it says it can act as a pre-amp for power amplifiers, and it has a couple of things on my need list (Optical IN specifically, and volume control). In order to be a DAC+Amp system, the DAC would need a volume control, which the D50s does. Some of the other offerings from Topping seem to fit the bill as well. The others I'd looked at were the RME ADI-2 FS (above budget), and Khadas Tone Board (March Dac1, Nord Easy Stream) - but these typically don't have volume control. I suppose volume control could be bypassed with a Schiit SYS for only $50 which wouldn't be too big of a hit.

The reason I'm on a quest for the right components is because I don't like re-selling "band-aid" equipment (at a loss), or hodge podging an OK setup. I'd rather buy a few of the right components and add the others as I can afford them. The Pre-amp and Phono-Preamp will be a major addition, but I could live without them for a while if I had Optical Input and enough voltage with RCA/XLR output to feed a good amplifier. If I can't come up with a solution ... I think I'm just going to have to live with a Stereo Receiver for a year or two while I save up for the right components. This would lead me to the new Outlaw rr2160Mkii, which would have a phono-preamp, enough AB amplification to drive my speakers, pre-outs for subwoofers, a Burr Brown PCM1792a DAC, optical inputs, RCA inputs/outputs out the wazoo, and one remote that rules them all .... it checks all the boxes.... but its not a Schiit Freya+ with a Khadas Tone board DAC, with a nice good budget phono preamp (Schiit Mani?) driving Stereo Purifi Amplifiers ...

So ... uhhhhh.... What DAC can power a Purifi stereo amp? (" Input Sensitivity: 8ohm 2.52Vrms 10.24dBu")

Hi there, have a Gustard P26 all analog preamp for sale, measures very well according to this site. I am asking $500
LMK if you have any interest. It is listed on the for sale forum on this site with pictures and info.