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kemmler3D

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How'd the two-sided KEF sub do?
The KC62 is really compact - I have 2 of them and they do what I want them to do. I'm happy with the sound. That said, they're not cheap and if I hadn't gotten them as a package deal I wouldn't own them. They're really expensive for the low-end output they can actually produce. They're a good option if space is a constraint but money isn't.

However, based on my expeirence with the KC62s I would definitely recommend a dual-opposed design. The force-cancellation effect is really dramatic. With the KC62s I would be comfortable putting them on a shelf or something, not something I'd normally do with a single-sided sub.

There are a few very compact subs out there that have "under couch" form factors. I think @sigbergaudio has one. So that might be a way around the space constraint. If you are handy with woodworking you can also make your own subs with unusual shapes to fit space constraints. Subs can be a better option for DIY since the size and shipping weight are disproportionate problems for manufacturers, but not home users, and the designs tend to be much simpler.

@Cool Runnings your SQ upgrades at this point will be 100% from speaker, subs, or DSP upgrades, or from acoustic treatment. If you can find a way to get bigger / better subs in the room and then DSP everything to integrate them, you should notice a big improvement.
 
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Cool Runnings

Cool Runnings

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The KC62 is really compact - I have 2 of them and they do what I want them to do. I'm happy with the sound. That said, they're not cheap and if I hadn't gotten them as a package deal I wouldn't own them. They're really expensive for the low-end output they can actually produce. They're a good option if space is a constraint but money isn't.

However, based on my expeirence with the KC62s I would definitely recommend a dual-opposed design. The force-cancellation effect is really dramatic. With the KC62s I would be comfortable putting them on a shelf or something, not something I'd normally do with a single-sided sub.

There are a few very compact subs out there that have "under couch" form factors. I think @sigbergaudio has one. So that might be a way around the space constraint. If you are handy with woodworking you can also make your own subs with unusual shapes to fit space constraints. Subs can be a better option for DIY since the size and shipping weight are disproportionate problems for manufacturers, but not home users, and the designs tend to be much simpler.

@Cool Runnings your SQ upgrades at this point will be 100% from speaker, subs, or DSP upgrades, or from acoustic treatment. If you can find a way to get bigger / better subs in the room and then DSP everything to integrate them, you should notice a big improvement.
Yup thanks. Looks like my next 2 big priorities are coming down to SVS 3000 micros and mini DSP Flex. Room treatment is another whole mystery to me. How does one even begin to determine where to put what treatment.
 

DWPress

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Room treatment is another whole mystery to me. How does one even begin to determine where to put what treatment.

Welcome to the forum,

Once again, a picture is worth 1000 words - not knowing if the room is sparely furnished and reverberant or the opposite makes it impossible to recommend.

Glad you're open to the DSP aspect of upgrade. The Flex is a good choice and Dirac is worthy of consideration if you want to keep it simple. Regardless, you'll be needing a measurement microphone like the Umik to keep pursuing this lovely rabbit hole of sound.
 

kemmler3D

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How does one even begin to determine where to put what treatment.
1) Do measurements of your in-room sound with a UMIK and REW.

2) Once you've done that, you can tell what your room problems are. In general, a home listener will do one of the following at this point:

  • Usually you EQ out any peaks in the bass first.
  • If your RT60 (decay time, i.e. how long reverb lasts in your room) is high but only in the mids/highs, you can use furniture, rugs, and/or acoustic absorbers to fix it.
  • If you have long RT60 in the bass region, even after doing EQ, you might want to get bass traps. These tend to be large, expensive, and only somewhat effective.
  • If you have sharp resonances in the mids / highs and/or flutter echo but RT60 is OK, you may want to look into diffusion.

Basically if you have already EQ'd the bass, you can take some REQ measurements and upload them here on ASR for further advice. :)
 
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Cool Runnings

Cool Runnings

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1) Do measurements of your in-room sound with a UMIK and REW.

2) Once you've done that, you can tell what your room problems are. In general, a home listener will do one of the following at this point:

  • Usually you EQ out any peaks in the bass first.
  • If your RT60 (decay time, i.e. how long reverb lasts in your room) is high but only in the mids/highs, you can use furniture, rugs, and/or acoustic absorbers to fix it.
  • If you have long RT60 in the bass region, even after doing EQ, you might want to get bass traps. These tend to be large, expensive, and only somewhat effective.
  • If you have sharp resonances in the mids / highs and/or flutter echo but RT60 is OK, you may want to look into diffusion.

Basically if you have already EQ'd the bass, you can take some REQ measurements and upload them here on ASR for further advice. :)
Thanks this is very helpful. This will keep me occupied for a good while :)
 

anotherhobby

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Welcome to the forum,

Once again, a picture is worth 1000 words - not knowing if the room is sparely furnished and reverberant or the opposite makes it impossible to recommend.

Glad you're open to the DSP aspect of upgrade. The Flex is a good choice and Dirac is worthy of consideration if you want to keep it simple. Regardless, you'll be needing a measurement microphone like the Umik to keep pursuing this lovely rabbit hole of sound.
Their image got buried in their reply to AdamG. Here it is pulled out of the reply:

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