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Irrational Accuphase Lust
- Thread starter Hank Nova
- Start date
watchnerd
Grand Contributor
That's a pretty unique design....what do all the top mounted switches do?
FWIW, I've never ever seen Burmester being sold in the states, in person. Apparently my nearest dealer is 1300 miles away.
EDIT: holy crap, that preamp is $45,000
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You could not tolerate an aesthetic defect on the back of the amp? You are so spending big on bling hifi later in life, accept your fate graciously.Yes, I can relate to this sentiment (and it's not OT because it pertains to well-built Japanese amps). I've been spoilt by how much I've lucked out on the last 2 amps I've sold on. Made a profit on one, and only had about 30% depreciation for another (and this was an obscure handbuilt amp). The one I made profit on was a mid-90s Marantz Reference PM-17 (part of a series of equipment I firmly believe to be on the cusp of becoming classics; the swan song of Japanese conglomerate supremacy in sanely-priced amplification). It is more beefy than comparable amps in Marantz's recent lineup. I think it looks a hell lot better (trust me, I own a PM6004), is built a ton better and looks more timeless than Marantz's current stuff (picture not of mine, but similar amp):
I paid the equivalent of $250 for it used from it's second owner. It later received an overhaul (recap, new toroid) from the official Japan-trained Marantz tech in the country. He quoted $60. He later realised the new parts he'd shipped in/taken from the spare stock cost much more, even excluding his labour. He honoured his original quote. I was about $310 in on the amp. Used it for nearly 2 years, and sold it for a profit at $420.
I got paid for using an amp with strong manufacturer support and was an utter pleasure to use (the chamfered knob with a weighty but smooth action is a dream) after routine maintenance. Let that sink in. I only sold it on because the idiot of a first owner bought in on the bi-wiring snake oil and got a third-party tech to drill holes in the back panel for a second pair of binding posts. The tech used crappy ratty plastic-nickel ones like you'd find from Radioshack, unlike the knurled brass of the factory posts. Probably only an aesthetic thing, since the Marantz tech passed it, but still a total eyesore I couldn't tolerate. And it still turned a profit.
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Deleted member 65
Guest
You´ll regret asking ...
The 808 MK5 in brief
(1) POWER master switch for turning the power to the preamplifier on and off.
(2) POWER LED illuminates when the preamplifier has been powered up.
(3) SELECTOR knob - for switching between input modules and for activating the remote control mode (REMOTE)
(4) MONITOR- / SOURCE- switch for comparing source and taped signal. Requires the installation of at least one TAPE module.
(5) MONITOR 1 / MONITOR 2 - switch for comparing signals from TAPE 1 and TAPE 2. This switch is only effective when the Monitor/Source switch (4) is set to Monitor.
(6) VOLUME - control knob for volume control of output modules OUTPUT 1 and SYM OUT 1.
The volume control is also effective when the REMOTE function has been switched on. As starting point for remote control we recommend setting the knob to 12 (top center).
(7) VOLUME - control knob for volume control of output modules OUTPUT 2 and SYM OUT 2 (for details refer to (6)).
(8) IR receiver must be left unobstructed for the remote to operate properly.
(9) Display shows the selected signal source and the volume setting in remote mode.
(10) Display - switch to switch display on or off.
(11) Input module mounting slots for installation of up to six input modules.
(12) Level control RIGHT for adjusting the right channel signal levels of the input modules.
(13) Level control LEFT for adjusting the left channel signal levels of the input modules.
(14) OUTPUT 1 - mounting slot for the unbalanced output module of output 1.
(15) OUTPUT 2 - mounting slot for the unbalanced output module of output 2.
(16) SYM OUT 1 - mounting slot for upgrading output 1 to balanced operation.
(17) SYM OUT 2 - mounting slot for upgrading output 2 to balanced operation.
(18) Level control RIGHT of the output modules to equalize right channel level variations of different power amps and active speakers.
(19) Level control LEFT of the output modules to equalize left channel level variations of different power amps and active speakers.
(20) OUTPUT 1 - switch to turn output module OUTPUT 1 on or off.
(21) OUTPUT 2 - switch to turn output module OUTPUT 2 on or off.
(22) Digital level display indicates the level of the selected input module in volts.
(23) Level display switch turn the level display on or off.
(24) Level display selector switch RIGHT/LEFT for switching between the channels.
(25) PHONO input L and R terminals for balanced phono connection.
(26) Mass screw for grounding tonearm cables with separate mass lead.
(27) AUX 1 - AUX 6 - inputs L and R. In the remote mode you can switch between the inputs AUX 2 to AUX 6 by repeatedly pressing the AUX button on the remote control. Setting the SELECTOR knob (3) to AUX switches only to the input AUX 1.
(28) Tape 2 - input, L and R, unbalanced.
(29) Tape 2 - output, L and R, unbalanced.
(30) Preamplifier OUTPUT 1, L and R, unbalanced.
(31) Preamplifier OUTPUT 2, L and R, unbalanced.
(32) PHONO input, L and R, balanced.
(33) CD input, L and R, balanced.
(34) TUNER input, L and R, balanced.
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(35) TAPE 1 input, L and R, balanced.
(36) TAPE 1 output, L and R, balanced.
(37) Preamplifier OUTPUT 1, L and R, balanced.
(38) Preamplifier OUTPUT 2, L and R, balanced.
(39) REM-OUT 1 output supplies the voltage to remotely switch other Burmester components.
(40) REM-OUT 2 output supplies the voltage to remotely switch other Burmester components.
(41) POWER SUPPLY - terminal for connecting the preamplifier to the power supply.
(42) POWER SUPPLY - terminal for connecting the power supply to the preamplifier.
(43) AC terminal with power switch for connection of the power cord.
(44) Control LED shows the correct functioning of the power supply.
Red: Preamplifier is switched on.
Green: Preamplifier is off. A green LED while the preamplifier has been switched on with the
POWER master switch (1) indicates that the power supply is not working properly. (45) Proprietary base for acoustically decoupling the preamplifier from external vibration and noise.
For additional insulation effect, we recommend using the supplied carbon fiber damping discs.
It was meant as a humourous aside, not an attack.
watchnerd
Grand Contributor
That was a bit accusatorial, wasn't it?
P.S. it's also true, you're both destined for audio blingery lol
watchnerd
Grand Contributor
It must weigh 20 kg or more....
Has "shorter, simpler signal paths are better" gone out of style?
OP
Hank Nova
Member
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2019
- Messages
- 42
- Likes
- 42
- Thread Starter
- #50
Ok, I went back and read it again... I'm shaking my head at myself. I thought you were saying "you're spending so much on audio, you should be happy to be able to do that", like you were wealth shaming him or something. I really apologize, my bad.
The heavier it is, the better it sounds, duh ;-)
No problem, the internet is a flawed medium, and I'd written that after being down the pub.
I expect I've hit peak personal bling with my Devialets, any change is likely to be to anonymous black boxes, or no component at all.
watchnerd
Grand Contributor
VU's
No ta.
For listening to music I want something from the following.
Low light.
A view out the window.
Full on swirly phsycadelic images being generated dynamically in response to the music.
All good homes should.I have the album with your avatar photo.
watchnerd
Grand Contributor
watchnerd
Grand Contributor
oh like one of those music responsive disco lights?
