Do not use WD40 on electronics. It's not meant for that, and can cause damage to contacts.What is your thought on WD40 vs Deoxit?
Do not use WD40 on electronics. It's not meant for that, and can cause damage to contacts.What is your thought on WD40 vs Deoxit?
And in the 1982 stack
I noticed the missing screw as soon as I opened it up - however no rattle, and couldn't seem to locate it. No vents in the case either, so a bit of a mystery where it could have gone...look for a loose grub screw rattling around in the case
If it's the left channel aux input for example
How did you know?? It is the left aux channel that is giving me trouble.
I'll do as you suggested and report back. Thank you!
Yes on both counts.Is Step 5 asking me to short the inputs? Would that just be connecting the shield to the inner signal pin?
WD40, Ballistol, Carramba, contact sprays, etc. are completely unsuitable for such work. A sudden improvement is followed by a worsening of the problem over time. The solvents and oils contained can attack not only the switch, but also surrounding surfaces and components.Based on the measurements printed on the case, seems like this offers SOTA performance
The only problem is that the input select isn't behaving nicely. I need to position it in-between inputs, otherwise the Left channel is very distorted (sometimes it works OK in the actual position, but usually not).
I was thinking that it would be a quick fix with some Deoxit, but I'm not at all familiar with how they implemented the selector switch.
Also, when taking off the bottom, I was struck by how beautiful IMO the circuit board is, the tidy wiring, layout, and the labelling on the circuit board.
Any advice appreciated, and enjoy the pics!
Isopropanol which I tried several times does not really work either on oxidized or corroded contacts. It can just only clean. To get reduction process the oxide there must be some more agressive chemicals. I agree that some contact spray like Contact 60 or similar does not help over time. Anyway, I use WD40 and Ballistol and it works, but need proper cleaning/removing.WD40, Ballistol, Carramba, contact sprays, etc. are completely unsuitable for such work. A sudden improvement is followed by a worsening of the problem over time. The solvents and oils contained can attack not only the switch, but also surrounding surfaces and components.
If you do not want to open such switches, use a syringe/cannula or atomizer to soak the inside of the switch with pure isopropanol and then rinse thoroughly. To do this, perhaps remove the circuit board or move the device into the appropriate position. After the isopropanol has evaporated completely and without leaving any residue, add some Cramolin protection (lubricant and corrosion protection for contacts), less is more.
If you want to disassemble the switch, someone here shows how similar switches are reprocessed.
https://ftbw.de/sale/amplifiers/cyrus1-new-nextel-01.html
You could also replace the switch with a rotary switch in the same place. Screw it to the housing using an angle bracket and wire freely.
Great that you got it fixed without removing the switch.View attachment 353021
A little bit of DeoxIT did the trick - we will see how long it remains static free.