Topping D50 III Balanced DAC with EQ Review

[staticV3]

Is there a way to do noise level vs DC input?
Bruno Putzeys said the idle tone problem in chip DAC before.
Not sure if that still is the case for modern ESS/AKM chips.

The D50 III is firmly designed for 5V DC in.

Reduce the input voltage and you risk performance penalties and audio cutouts.

Increase the input voltage and you risk damaging the DAC.

 

[yys310]

The D50 III is firmly designed for 5V DC in.

Reduce the input voltage and you risk performance penalties and audio cutouts.

Increase the input voltage and you risk damaging the DAC.

That's not what I was talking about.
But just recall that ESS already showed the original hyperstream dac has solved this problem.
So I think we won't see the noise rise at different DC level for this DAC.

 

[SDX-LV]

I asso disagree.
Show me a device with Phone pre and four channel output like the RME ADI-2/4 offers for a lower price.

I think your statement actually confirms my point - "unless you reeeeealy have to have an RME device" with the RME-unique feature combination there are cheaper and more advanced devices with similar quality. For example miniDSP Flex or SHD series are unbeated by ADI2 when it comes to bass management + Dirac Live at prices often below the 2-channel only ADI2.

Could you explain to me why an updated RME ADI2 model which added 4-ch output (a necessity to integrate subwoofers, even though without Dirac-like EQ it is not so easy) became 2x more expensive? Topping adds more and more features while lowering prices, RME added some useful features and a pair of outputs just like any multi-output RME Fireface model and immediately price is 2x up? (pricing just like upgrading RAM in an Apple MacBook).
I don't care about phono inputs and vinyl, but outputs to integrate subwoofers are a must on a unit that shall drive serious speaker system. So I think RME is going for High-End boutique pricing - therefore I recommend to look elsewhere if you care about value for money "unless you reeeeealy have to have an RME device".

 

[SDX-LV]

I disagree.

Topping doesn't show at all that RME is too expensive.

Rather they show how far bare-bones and disposable one can go to reach how low a price point.

I would call Topping cost-aware, not disposable. You pay less for what you need, and do not buy a few extra features that you might never use at 5x the price.
Topping or miniDSP match RME hardware specs where it matters most for sound reproduction and the differences in software are also decreasing when Topping or Wiim start to add features like PEQ. I am just happy that less people will feel the need to pay up for RME when more of the cheaper products will meet their needs just as well.

Me personally - I went with miniDSP SHD over ADI2 because of Dirac Live and 4ch-outputs. But today miniDSP Flex offers the same features much cheaper than SHD while new 4ch ADI2 variant got outrageously more expensive.

Also on Digiface and Fireface lineup - each new model is often much more expensive than a similar older one (check the pricing of RME Digiface Ravenna versus Digiface Dante).

 

[Sokel]

I don't care about phono inputs and vinyl, but outputs to integrate subwoofers are a must on a unit that shall drive serious speaker system.

There's no studio driving serious speakers and subs straight from a DAC.
There's no fail-safe and guard in this scheme.

RME is for the pro market,don't confuse it with stuff that will be discontinued in couple of years.

 

[yys310]

Comparing a company that outsources the debug process to the customer to a company produce rock solid products and has almost everlasting driver/firmware update?
You get what you pay for. If RME were to fail with their strategy they'll reconsider their MSRP. But the reliability and long term support costs money.

 

[DLS79]

Can some of you take your RME fanboyism someplace else, some of use are getting tired of reading about it!

 

[Scrivs]

Call me a fanboy, but I value a well-engineered device which includes consistent, useful, reliable firmware that is indefinitely iterated, and utility maximized. The ADI Remote software is one such example. They didn’t HAVE to expend the resources on something that the end user receives gratis. Although it wouldn’t be unreasonable to view the ongoing improvements as part of the initial outlay.

So, yeah, I’m a fanboy (of any company that provides this level of awesome).

Just my $.02

 

[Scrivs]

One other thing— my SU-9, Topping E30, and Modi 3 while sounding fine don’t exude the physical quality, and excellent engineering choices that my ADI-2 DAC represents. Only quibble is the menu system. That too has been addressed by the Remote app. Rad.

 

[Sokel]

Sokel, could you clarify what you mean by those first two sentences? I am still learning on a lot of this. If you have a hardware volume control on a DAC or software volume control through Roon--or even if you have something like a Wiim Pro Plus which has an AKM 4493SEQ DAC--why would it be dangerous to just directly connect it to an amp and subs?

Any scheme that involves a volume control straight to power amps has to have fail safe measures.
During time a (rare) glitch,operator fault,etc can cause a system to go to 0db with all the consequences one can imagine.

And a device like a DAC or anything that defaults to 0db after a glitch does not help.Not that all do,some has better guards than others,better firmware,etc,others have analog volume control which is really difficult to fail,other (pro devices) have limiters and so on.

The sane thing to do is to include a fail-safe if a system is controlled solely by software.
Either a voltage divider to the point of the loudest desired level,a pre with an analog VC,or any other measure.

Yes,I sound paranoid about it but I have seen and read enough to be like that.

 

[DaveW42]

Thanks, Sokel! That was exactly the information I was looking for. Do you have a recommendation on such a device, that would preserve sound quality and not break the bank?

I currently have a Buckeye Purifi Amp, a pair of ESB 7/06 speakers, a Rhythmik sub, and a Mytek Brooklyn that would be connected. I can just grab an old Yamaha receiver (HTR 5790) and use the pre-outs if I have to, but I am hesitant due to concerns it might impact audio quality. With my Mytek Brooklyn, I am working to get HQPlayer going with Roon and a Raspberry PI as the NAA device.

Thanks again!

Dave

 

[Sokel]

Thanks, Sokel! That was exactly the information I was looking for. Do you have a recommendation on such a device, that would preserve sound quality and not break the bank?

I currently have a Buckeye Purifi Amp, a pair of ESB 7/06 speakers, a Rhythmik sub, and a Mytek Brooklyn that would be connected. I can just grab an old Yamaha receiver (HTR 5790) and use the pre-outs if I have to, but I am hesitant due to concerns it might impact audio quality. With my Mytek Brooklyn, I am working to get HQPlayer going with Roon and a Raspberry PI as the NAA device.

Thanks again!

Dave

I would think something like the Schiit Kara or similar,depending your configuration.specially if you live in US.
You can go a lot cheaper with voltage dividers,etc but you must take care not to mismatch impedance and can go pretty technical.
Other members can help with the later as they know a ton more than I do.

 

[DrCWO]

The sane thing to do is to include a fail-safe if a system is controlled solely by software.
Either a voltage divider to the point of the loudest desired level,a pre with an analog VC,or any other measure.

I like to share my opinion on that.
I connected my ADI-2/4 Pro directly to a NCx500 amp. But I adjusted the amplification of the amp so that 0dB are very loud 90dB at listening position but dont‘ hurt anything. Not my amp, not the speakers nor my ears. With such a setup you are safe and on the other hand get the maximum achievable SINAD as there is no amplification that has do be reduced by a voltage divider in front of the amp.

Edit:
Analog potentiometers even in pre-amplifiers increase noise, distortion and channel mismatch. So a direct path from DAC to Amp is preferable in my eyes. But as said the amplification should be set in a way that 0dB did not kill anything.

 

[Sokel]

But I adjusted the amplification of the amp so that 0dB are very loud 90dB at listening position but dont‘ hurt anything.

You mean by it's gain settings?
Yes,that's a good way to do it.

 

[DrCWO]

You mean by it's gain settings?
Yes,that's a good way to do it.

Exactly, sorry for the misunderstanding, I‘m not a native speaker

 

[OldTimer]

Of course: With equalization on - the frequency switches from 1,00000 kHz to 0,99999 kHz

- just kidding!

Run and buy!

Still can‘t find the stock on local market.

 

[Labjr]

I think one could add some sort of attenuation which could be bypassed after turning on your system. I have a DAC/headphone amp that sometimes does that to me. I'm cautious when I turn it on.

 

[NiToNi]

What does it sound like compared to the Lampizator Horizon?

 

[DrCWO]

What does it sound like compared to the Lampizator Horizon?

Let me guess: Less noise and less distortion

Edit: Look here:

Making the big move - Which of these bad boys; Holo Audio, Weiss, Lampizator

Hello folks So I´m building a serious 2-channel system for a private client and when I was looking for a DAC that I wanted for myself 6months ago, I wanted the Holo Audio May. I could not audition the May and still can´t but after reading up on reviews it seems like a good DAC that sound...

audiosciencereview.com

 

[DaveW42]

I like to share my opinion on that.
I connected my ADI-2/4 Pro directly to a NCx500 amp. But I adjusted the amplification of the amp so that 0dB are very loud 90dB at listening position but dont‘ hurt anything. Not my amp, not the speakers nor my ears. With such a setup you are safe and on the other hand get the maximum achievable SINAD as there is no amplification that has do be reduced by a voltage divider in front of the amp.

Edit:
Analog potentiometers even in pre-amplifiers increase noise, distortion and channel mismatch. So a direct path from DAC to Amp is preferable in my eyes. But as said the amplification should be set in a way that 0dB did not kill anything.

You mean by it's gain settings?
Yes,that's a good way to do it.

Thanks for everyone's insights! This is wonderful, and please keep it coming!

My Amp is a Purifi 1ET400A (from Buckeye). With respect to adjustment of gain settings, would I just set the toggle to the low gain setting to fully accomplish what you are indicating? Towards the bottom of this post I have provided information appearing on the product page for this amp.

There are separate fuses on my speakers associated with each driver, for overload protection. Hopefully that would help. My ESB 7/06 speakers are 6 ohm speakers. Hoping that the Topping D50 III also has some protection (I have placed an order).

Lastly, I should have included my Microsoft Surface Dial and rooDial in my list of equipment. It works great!

Dave

From Buckeye product page:

Gain Settings

• 4 ohm - 25.5dB/2.2Vrms (High), 20.5dB/3.9Vrms (Medium), 15.5dB/6.9Vrms (Low)​
• 8 ohm - 25.5dB/2.3Vrms (High), 20.5dB/4.0Vrms (Medium), 15.5dB/7.1Vrms (Low)​

High input gain setting matches up with the input gain of the Hypex NCxxxMP amplifiers, perfect for those wanting to mix Purifi amplifiers with Hypex amplifiers (such as for a home theater setup).