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DavidEdwinAston

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The new bedside digital clock has three brightness settings. The dimmest is far too bright. If I could introduce an attenuator between the wall plug and the clock, would reduced current possibly produce a dimmer display?
Sorry if at the age of eighty I am displaying my extreme ignorance of electricity! :oops:
 

fpitas

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Unlikely, I'm afraid. Or at least you would have to cut the voltage so much the clock might not even run anymore.
 

fpitas

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DavidEdwinAston

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Thanks guys :)
The lateral thinking genius of ASR!
 

MRC01

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15 years ago I had a similar issue. An attenuator between the wall plug & the clock will reduce the voltage to the entire clock which may make it work improperly. Instead I took the clock apart, found the wire that leads to the display light, and soldered in a bunch of Vishay 1% metal film resistors left over from my ladder attenuator build, in a combination of series & parallel to get the resistance needed for a very dim display. The parts are total overkill for this application but it's still working.
Have fun with it!
 

Somafunk

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A bit of paper taped to the display is the easy option
 

MRC01

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I'm looking for something similar. My preamp has a remote controlled volume control with an IR sensor. It sits below my plasma screen, which emits so much full spectrum light that the remote doesn't work when the screen is bright. It's like an infrared light jammer.

My workaround was to build a small cylinder of black velcro and tape it around the sensor on the preamp, so the IR from the plasma screen can't jam the remote. This works, but it is unsightly.

I wonder if there is a plastic/tape film that is a high pass light filter, allowing only IR frequencies through? If so that might be a more elegant solution.
 

DonH56

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I'm looking for something similar. My preamp has a remote controlled volume control with an IR sensor. It sits below my plasma screen, which emits so much full spectrum light that the remote doesn't work when the screen is bright. It's like an infrared light jammer.

My workaround was to build a small cylinder of black velcro and tape it around the sensor on the preamp, so the IR from the plasma screen can't jam the remote. This works, but it is unsightly.

I wonder if there is a plastic/tape film that is a high pass light filter, allowing only IR frequencies through? If so that might be a more elegant solution.
Yes, there are specialty films that do that, but I have only seen them for sale at optical supply places. A camera store may have it, check B&H or similar, though often they have films to block IR and pass only visible light. There are special IR cameras and lens with filters but those are special glass and pricey for your application.

In a similar situation, I used (made) a black piece of cardboard that sat on top of the player (preamp in your case) to act as a shade (visor) to block the light from the screen from reaching the IR sensor. I had tried a tube but it restricted the field of response too much (had to aim the transmitter right down the tube) so added the "hat" instead.
 
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DavidEdwinAston

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Just draped a white linen handkerchief over the clock display! Won't find out it's effectiveness till tonight! Should hold me over until Amazon delivers the plastic screens! :)
 

Berwhale

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Just draped a white linen handkerchief over the clock display! Won't find out it's effectiveness till tonight! Should hold me over until Amazon delivers the plastic screens! :)

Errrrr, did you order the 100% LightDims? They may defeat the purpose of the clock. You might want the ones that let some of the time through...

 
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DavidEdwinAston

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Errrrr, did you order the 100% LightDims? They may defeat the purpose of the clock. You might want the ones that let some of the time through...

I certainly hope not! Will find out tomorrow double folded hanky pretty effective! Will try quadruple tonight!:facepalm:
 
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DavidEdwinAston

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Okay, final heads up on this crucial matter. Lightdims arrived. A series of small rectangles, squares and circles. A devil of a job to get off the backing despite watching the ten minute video explaining exactly how to get off the backing. For this old dope, very difficult to apply smoothly.
At any rate, provided the pebbledashed result allows enough of the illuminated digits to show through, looks like a complete success, apart from the aesthetics! Shoulda made sure I purchased the correct size of product, and then, got someone else to apply it.
Thanks for remaining riveted to the thread! :)
:):):cool:
 
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