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Silly surface mount dummy load module

+1 on thermal vias. LOTS of them, large ones, to carry the heat down to a silpad + large metal plate on the bottom cooled by muffin fans. Else you'll let the smoke out...
Might be helpful to use 2 oz. copper on the PCBs, too.
 
+1 on thermal vias. LOTS of them, large ones, to carry the heat down to a silpad + large metal plate on the bottom cooled by muffin fans. Else you'll let the smoke out...
Might be helpful to use 2 oz. copper on the PCBs, too.
Great points! Do take a look at the papers linked by me and @MCH in posts above. Also see the V2 changelist posted above. These PCBs are already 2oz, it's needed just to carry the current, never mind the thermals! In terms of "carrying the heat down" do review the papers, the thermal modeling is not quite that simple for SMD components. While heat _transfer_ mostly happens though the pads, the highest temps remain in the core of the resistors. Thermal pads and vias would be a definite win in V2 below the resistors because there's no airflow down there and moving the heat to the backside is the only possibility. It's not so clear that adding heatsinking to the topside would help much, but I'd welcome a stronger analysis! The thing is that these 2512 2W chips are quite thick, so cooling from one side only is probably not optimal.
 
It's only a matter of air flow. -And that is easy to scale to need.

Will you be sharing any test results once you’re done experimenting with it?
You mean for the Fosi? Yes, full suite on the way, I'm just settling the dummy load in for now.

it's a competent TPA3255 PBTL implementation, with marginal component values at 48V such as 50V rated supply caps, and quite thin internal cabling. Nicely put together in a tiny package but I think they did the right thing selling it with a 36V/4A supply, it really can't use any more than that safely. It is going to drive a passive sub in our games room to help out the JBL LSR305p speakers.
 
That's rather melodramatic! Used mounted sideways they have a built in fail-safe, as above 200C the resistors will all fall off
Has that actually been tested or is that just a guess at a likely scenario? Would surface tension of the melted solder hold them in place?
 
Has that actually been tested or is that just a guess at a likely scenario? Would surface tension of the melted solder hold them in place?
You wouldn't ask that if you'd. ever done manual SMD reflow or rework! Bloody things fall off at the drop of a hat unless the board is perfectly level.
 
With the fan a bit closer and the mean-well supply I'm getting 4C above ambient at 20W, and 40C above ambient at 200W. And the Fosi amp itself has gone into thermal shutdown for reasons that are obvious if you've seen a picture of the internals but I'll explain again in my review. Still confident of 400W @ 50C above ambient for the silly dummy load, but only with a closer/ducted fan setup.
That's 200W for the four boards, I assume. 200W/(40K*4*0.03m^2)=40W/m^2K, which roughly agrees with expectations:
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That's 200W for the four boards, I assume. That's 200W/(40K*4*0.03m^2)=40W/m^2K. That makes sense.
Exactly so. And the graph you shared is nice, showing that increased airflow will only get you so far. So yeah, I'm sticking with 400W continuous (100W per board) as the upper limit for this version. We could probably double that with a version 2 that has better heat transfer front to back and some heatsinks to provide more surface area. But then it stops being a silly project and starts getting all serious.

Anyway who has an amp that can really do more than 400W continuous?
 
Has that actually been tested or is that just a guess at a likely scenario? Would surface tension of the melted solder hold them in place?
If you heat the legs of most soldered components and flip the board upside down, they’ll usually drop right out.
 
I used the load to test the Fosi M03 sub amp - review here
 
I would change the title in

Smart surface mount dummy load module​

 
This is an easy and effective air guide that does what I tried to describe.

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I assume you are well aware of this thread "ASR dummy load configuration", especially @LangstoneHolland's nice posts #97 and #98.
I was not, so thank you! He went to 200W continuous I think? I tested my setup today after getting some 3D printing done by my son to make a decent enclosure, and adding heatsinks to the chip side. I was able to run at 400W (so 100W per board) with heatsink temps at 75C, but the backs of the boards got to 115C. I've ordered some more heatsinks to attach to the back of the boards, which I think would let me get to 800W continuous.

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What I'm hoping is that reasonable airflow might be enough to allow say 100W/board continuous power without a heatsink in this hacky version 1. With improvements in version 2 I'd be pretty confident in doubling whatever v1 does.
My prediction was broadly right when using a big pedestal fan, but that's not so helpful when trying to make a useful device. Good airflow and chip-side heatsinks are getting me to 100W/board. I think adding back-side heatsinks will get me to 200W/board or 800W total, at which point I'll run out of heat capacity in the airflow around 50cfm/85m^3/hr
 
Why don't you do what is the most simple way to extend the heat transfer more than 10 times? Just place the boards into a tank with a 50/50 mixture of demineralised water and anti freeze used for cars, solar heating etc? This mix doesn't conduct electricity and is non corrosive, even after many years. Cheap, reliabel and no moving parts needed. With the boards on the bottom the hot cooling media will rise and the cooler liquid will move downward. Just add some temperature warning or cut off thermostat.
You can think of a dozen ways to improve this, like water pumps, radiators etc. but just a few liter liquid go a long way until boiling. All you need is a small tank, best fixed at a wall. The primitive version is coating the electronic parts with clear varnish and dumping it into a bucket of tap water. Used by many amp builders.
 
Why don't you do what is the most simple way to extend the heat transfer more than 10 times? Just place the boards into a tank with a 50/50 mixture of demineralised water and anti freeze used for cars, solar heating etc? This mix doesn't conduct electricity and is non corrosive, even after many years. Cheap, reliabel and no moving parts needed. With the boards on the bottom the hot cooling media will rise and the cooler liquid will move downward. Just add some temperature warning or cut off thermostat.
You can think of a dozen ways to improve this, like water pumps, radiators etc. but just a few liter liquid go a long way until boiling. All you need is a small tank, best fixed at a wall. The primitive version is coating the electronic parts with clear varnish and dumping it into a bucket of tap water. Used by many amp builders.
I think you and I have different ideas about what might be "most simple". Unless you are joking in which case well played! Immersion cooling is messy, requires careful handling, and eventually the heat capacity of the coolant runs out so it's not truly continuous in its power handling.

800W continuous power handling with two cheap fans, some heatsinks and some boards orderable from JLC looks pretty good by comparison?
 
I was not, so thank you! He went to 200W continuous I think? I tested my setup today after getting some 3D printing done by my son to make a decent enclosure, and adding heatsinks to the chip side. I was able to run at 400W (so 100W per board) with heatsink temps at 75C, but the backs of the boards got to 115C. I've ordered some more heatsinks to attach to the back of the boards, which I think would let me get to 800W continuous.

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That looks really-really nice,congrats to your son!Similar one can be used to cool amps for extreme performance I guess.
 
Apparently 0% duty cycle is full speed on PC case fans, and I got that wrong on my little interposer board so they were running at half speed. After fixing that I get 40C on the heatsinks and 100C on the backs of the boards when running at 100W/board. Once I put the heatsinks on the back I should be easily reaching 200W per board. I'll put some DS12xx thermometers on the heatsinks to replace my IR thermometer as well.
 
I get 40C on the heatsinks and 100C on the backs of the boards
IR thermometer
That is a huge difference. Are you sure the thermal coupling with the heat sink is good and/or your IR measurements from the heat sink are accurate?
I would be cautious to double the power before checking all is ok.
 
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